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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    ADELAIDE
    Posts
    2

    Default Help with preparing slab of redgum for bar top

    Hi
    I have purchased a 2 metre by approx 600mm by 70mm slab of red gum and wish to learn the process of making this beautiful piece of timber into a finished bar top. I have no experience in this process so any help would be great. I had gone to Bunnings and spoke to an employee there who convinced me to purchase Selleys Plasti-bond to fill cracks, then plane surface and finally apply linseed oil to maintain a matt/raw looking finish. Not that I dont believe him, but I'm after a basic step by step process.
    I have some fairly deep cracks to fill (do I use product purchased).
    What do I do??
    The redgum has a really nice bark edging which I want to keep, I would like a reasonably matt finish, so all in all what products do I need to buy to complete the project without it costing me a fortune. I would like to think I can have it finished in 3 weeks.
    Thanks all for your help...
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    near Mackay
    Age
    60
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    0

    Default

    I have never used plastibond to fill timber cracks and voids (what colour will it end up being?) May turn out ugly unless it can be coloured to what you desire.

    I now use casting resin (used for fibreglassing etc) I use it clear or get it tinted black depending on what effect I'm trying to achieve. It can be got at any outlet for fiberglassing supplies (maybe even bunnings has it?) Better to buy from where the tradies buy though as you'll get some better advise (ussually). And its relatively cheap.

    As for the oil finish, I wouldnt use linseed (others who use oil finishes will be able to advise here) there are much better products available.

    I use 2-pack poly finishes on my bar tops etc. which require spraying equipment. Though Wattyl 7008 is able to be applied with a lambswool applicator (been told its quite easy to achieve an acceptable result) This will give you a very durable finish, but maybe not the matt type look that you are after.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    399

    Default Something to think about...

    I also am not fimilar with that product, but I also agree that you should use a two part filler to fill the defects.

    A bit of advice, only slightly over fill the cracks, voids, dents, etc. The more you put on, the more time you will spend sanding down those damages.

    Do not use Linseed Oil, it dries to slow if it ever dries, The clerk must have meant to use Boiled Linseed Oil, You might want to consider using one of the Danish Oils, they usually also contain an alkyd varnish or poly and are more durable and chemical resistant. These types are wiped on finishes, read the directions on the labels, or ask some more questions.

    Good Luck

    Mac

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    77
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    0

    Thumbs up Red Gum.

    1. Don't rush into this. wait until you weigh up the information from here.
    2. Plasti-bond as a filler with any timber YUK! YUK! YUK! and again I say YUK!!
    3. Get the moisture content of your piece measued. It may need more drying time.
    4. Post some photo's so that forumites might assess the problems you have. It might pay you to put small paper notes on the piece describing a particular problem. eg. crack 2cms wide x cms long.
    5. Take little notice of anything that youare told at Bunnings.
    6. There must be furniture makers around your are who have experience with Red Gum. Annoy them.
    7. Stay away from Plasti-bond.
    8. Keepus posted before you do anything.
    9. Stay away from plasti-bond.
    10. Plasti-bond is only glorified panelbearter's bog. Stay away from it.!!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Armadale
    Posts
    887

    Default

    You can use araldite, but it is expensive if youve got a lot of filling to do.
    You can also use builders bog (white not pink) and colour it up with powder tints but this depends on how good you are at mixing and matching colour.
    You can also touch up the filled bits with simple spirt stains and 3-4 very fine brushes (if done with bog) to immitate natural knots and other woody features.This requires some practice but its fun to do.

    You can use a 2 pac resin like araldite and tint with powder colour this will have a translucency rather like dried redgum sap and is less messing around.
    It depends on the look you want it to have
    For finish, i'd use danish oil.

    getting the moisture content is a sound idea but where or how you do this
    i have no idea.
    maybe Artme can tell you.

    Shopping list
    builders bog or 2 pac clear resin (one with a longer drying time to give you time to mess around with colouring it and filling the cracks)
    powder tints in burnt umber and the reddish brown one the (name escapes me) basicly a very dark brown, a red brown
    small cans of spirit stain( if your using the touch out method)
    nah scrubb that, you can tint meths with your powder colour.
    artists palett knife to ladle in the mix and spread it out
    1ltr cabots danish oil
    600 grit wet and dry to cut back your danish oil.
    0000 steel wool buffing danish oil.

    Astrid

    PS I dont think youll finish in 2-3 weeks, a good job shouldnt be hurried especialy if you doing this for the first time.
    PPS you need advise on how to keep the bark on and sealed. I have no idea
    Help anyone??

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    3,208

    Default

    Decide what colour effect you would like before you do anything.

    Oils will darken the Colour of redgum. often very considerably
    Water based clears will give you the nearest finish to natural timber Colour.
    Furniture lacquer starts out close to water clears but they darken over time

    Use an expoxy resin filler, you can leave it clear or tint it to your taste
    You may as well use car bog as plastibond but only use either if you are going to paint it instead of using a clear finish.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Armadale
    Posts
    887

    Default

    Bob,
    cabots danish we have established is a poly base and dosent darken the timber any more that wetting it but it rubs in and dosent have the plastic look of normal poly.
    also builders bog is used by the big restorers to fake missing parquetry but it does take skill and practice to paint a faux wood knot.

    i'm knot brilliant at this but somtimes i surprise myself.
    you fill the hole with bog tinted to match the majority of the timber.
    then use a brush with only one or two hairs in it to very carefully fake a grain using spirit stain.

    some guys I know can do this so the bog is invisable to even the most experienced eye.

    but its probably not a technique for beginers on a good bit of wood, so go for the resin

    astrid

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    399

    Default Water Clear has its place, like other coatings.

    Regarding, the Water Clear coatings, they give a cold look to most woods and finishes, in some cases as with the water base coatings, which also are water clear, a small amount of dye is being added to warm up the water clear coatings to actually look like the nitro coatings.

    I find the little amount of amber in nitocellulose lacquers actually improves many of dark coloured woods as they age.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    3,208

    Default

    So here we see differing opinions from 3 knowledgable people.

    What this means Gilly, is you should experiment on some offcuts & see which finish you prefer.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Dundowran Beach
    Age
    77
    Posts
    0

    Thumbs up Red Gum

    Moisture content:
    1. If you know that the slab has bee properly kiln dried, or is very old, naturally seasoned timber you can assume it's safe to work on.
    2. Their must be timber merchants, millers, restorers etc around adelaide who have misture metres that they coul hire to you.
    Finish:
    1. If you want a wet,shiny look then there are plenty of options.
    2. For and oil finish a method I've seen used several times might suit you. You can use this method with Organ Oil or The Trton oil. I suspect it would also do well with Wattyl Scandanavian or some of the "Danish" oil finishes.
    • After plugging holes and cracks, sand with a random orbital sander. keep the sander moving. work down through the grades to finest grade you intend to use. I'd suggest about 400 at least.
    • Leave sanding dust on timber from final sanding grade., spread oil on a patch and redo with ROS.This gives a truely good finish. You can repeat the oil and sanding after wiping the slab down.
    The sandinding dust collected above can be used to help plug cracks and holes, its big advantage is that the colour is right.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    ADELAIDE
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Hi
    Thanks to all for you advice, really appreciate it!!
    Sounds to me though that i may need some assistance, does anyone know any people who would consider doing the job for me in Adelaide. I live in Melrose Park so don't want to travel too far if I can help it.
    Thanks again
    Cheers
    Gilly
    Have included some photos (I hope it worked)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    399

    Default Another filler to consider?

    Regarding a moisture meter, when you locate someone who has a moisture meter, bring the wood to them, it only takes a couple of minute to do the piece, do a few areas with the meter to check the whole slab.

    Another option to use as a two part filler that works really good are the Epoxy sticks, they are sold in several colors. I'm sure they are sold all over in many different places.

    Here, is a photo showing the epoxy stick, it certainly has its place in furniture repair, and is very handy to have around the house.

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