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Thread: Storing tools in steel cabinet
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5th August 2007, 01:09 PM #1
Intermediate Member
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- Jun 2007
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- Adelaide
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Storing tools in steel cabinet
I picked up some secondhand steel cabinets which are fantastic for storing things in the garage -adjustable shelves, lockable etc.
They say you lern from your mistakes - my new (cheapish) plane and clamp was left on the steel shelf and has started rusting like crazy.
Any tips on safe storage of tools in steel cabinets - can I line the shelves or should I not keep any tools in there?
Any tips appreciated ...
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5th August 2007, 01:17 PM #2
I live in the rainforest of north Queensland were the high humidity is a problem. I keep a lot of the moisture sensitive items in a steel cabinet with a 40 watt incandescent bulb burning all the time on the bottom shelf. The warm dry air coming off the bulb permeates the whole cabinet and keeps everything dry and rust free.
If it goes against the grain, it's being rubbed the wrong way!
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5th August 2007, 01:51 PM #3
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5th August 2007, 02:00 PM #4
Hi Spencer...
You can make toolbox drawer liners out of carpet underlay. That open rubbery non-slip stuff, available everywhere. The same stuff sold for toolboxes goes for a few dollars a drawer, quite a bit cheaper at a carpet joint. It has the advantage of preventing the tools from clanging around too. You can use the same stuff on your workbench for a high friction aid-it allows you to work on a piece without clamps...sanding and routing come to mind.
Greg. (who by the way has started using spray lanolin for corrosion proofing based on a tip in a topic a few months ago. so far so good)
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5th August 2007, 02:12 PM #5
Camelia oil
from Carbatec
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5th August 2007, 03:00 PM #6
Intermediate Member
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- Jun 2007
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Thanks guys - I have offcuts of carpet underlay in my loft ..... once again that old mantra about never throing anything out comes through ....
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5th August 2007, 09:52 PM #7
With my steel lockers, my planes sit on 1/4" ply and I have a Vapour Seal in the same compartment. The rest of the tools sit on the non slip matting.
Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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15th September 2007, 06:00 PM #8
SENIOR MEMBER
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- Sep 2007
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- Nicholls ACT
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I store my tools in a steel cupboard but keep the tools in the base of their cardboard boxes with the original paper which has some oil or wax on it. I also wipe tools with camelia oil. It works in Canberra(pretty dry) and also in Sydney when I lived right next to the sea. Rust is not a problem with my tools - just the users skill!
Pusser
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16th September 2007, 12:52 AM #9
I recently conducted an experiment to assess the effectiveness of wrapping steel with aluminium foil. The idea was to let the Al function as a sacrificial anode, similar to "zincs" welded on the bottoms of ship hulls. Google [electrochemical series] for insight.
I polished two railroad spikes, wrapped one in Al foil, and suspended both in a swimming pool. This is an aggressive environment, detrimental even to some alloys of "stainless" steel. I removed them after about a week. The unprotected spike had a loose heavy coat of oxide, and the wrapped one didn't. Even after scrubbing the oxide off, I think there's still a marked difference between the two.
Aluminium foil is pure Al. There seems to be a benefit in wrapping tools with it for protection, but I have no long-term results yet.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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16th September 2007, 11:21 PM #10
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23rd September 2007, 11:04 PM #11
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joe
Sacraficial anodes like the Alfoil don't have to wrap the entire spike, just to have a contact (which is electrical). It is galvanic corrosion. The Alfoil corrodes (aluminium rust) and electrons travel to or from it to the steel (Can't remember which way). These electrons "protect" the steel. If you have a copper wire between the Alumiinum and the steel and run the wire through a light bulb etc, you have a battery!
magnesium makes better sacraficial anodes.
Similar thing happens when you put brass taps on galv water pipe. The Brass Protects the gal and it rusts up in no time. But put a electircal insulator between them and no prob.
Carpet underlay, Most carpet shops would be happy to give you the scraps. My local was happy when I salvaged severl metres from his bin for underlay under my fish pond.
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24th September 2007, 12:47 AM #12
Brian:
Quite so. Magnesium is further away in the galvanic series. I found a reference of wrapping stainless steel in Al foil, where the differential is larger than for ordinary steel. As to complete wrapping, I noticed some rust on an unprotected portion, but my accelerated test environment probably wasn't a good model of reality. IIRC, the "zincs" welded to ship hulls are actually magnesium "now" (about 25 years ago). As a practical matter, though, the question is "What's more convenient? Wrapping and unwrapping with foil? Or spraying/wiping with goop and later wiping off?" The latter may be simpler. And, as aluminium forms a protective oxide coating for itself (e.g. anodizing), the benefit may be minimal.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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21st October 2007, 09:42 PM #13
But since you only need contact with the Al, what about lining your cupboards with alfoil? Obviously you'd need to make sure any important parts are actually in contact with the foil.
Cheers, Richard
"... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.
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22nd October 2007, 09:44 PM #14
Bah! Anyone who is anyone knows that 3M brand Velostat makes much better thought-screening hats than aluminium foil! (unless your mind is being influenced by the mind control rays, that is).
Picture related. (only you can stop alien abductions!)
But you can get silica gel desiccant for about $5 per few kilos from the Reject Shop when you buy it as that high tech kitty litter, if you have humidity problems in storage boxes.
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3rd May 2009, 06:53 PM #15
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- Mar 2008
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- Lameroo South Australia
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Just checking in??
Thanks for the greeting Ive been off doing other domestic things that the other half requests.
Last post was in regards to decking timbers of which I ended up using a Timber called "Chestnut" a very hard timber found its cost quite comparable with the other main stream decking timbers .
The main reason I went for this was the fact it was 23mm thick rather that the normal 19mm it came planned all round and none reeded so it gave two sides to choose from all in all Im quite happy with the product it was available in Adelaide .
Many thanks to all those that responded to my questions keep up the good work an excellent and informative web site for those in need of help and advice.
Regards Allan 32hyb
Lameroo S.A.