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Thread: how do i get this colour stain
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11th March 2006, 10:11 AM #1
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how do i get this colour stain
i'm trying to get this colour stain, i'v tried most stains from the hardware, but they don't match up, it's on reecycled oregon which is also a tricky timber to stain, i got some vandyke crystals and it is a fantastic product, better than any stain i'v used, but still can't get this colour, walnut seems to naturally have a small amount of red in it which shows in the sunlight,(atleast on oregon anyway) how can i combat this? maybe add some yellow...the table in this pic is also recycled oregon...
suggetions would be appriecated before i go mad...:mad:
Hurry, slowly
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11th March 2006, 11:31 AM #2
Hi la Huerta,
That colour looks very similar to the Dark Oak colour I used on the screen door.
It was sikkens HLS Dark Oak. The rails and styles were a light browny-slightly reddish tinge colour to start with but ended up with a good dark oak colour. The bullnose mouldings ended up looking a bit orangey-brown after the HLS but they were much lighter to begin with.
You did say anything
Good luck
Cheers
Wendy
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11th March 2006, 02:07 PM #3
Prolly get close with a walnut stain. I like feast and watson for stains. Stain is a pain unless you shoot it on mixed in your finishing lacquer. It won't go blotchy. You shoot coats until you got the right colour depth all over. And shoot a few more clearcoats. Least thats how i do it.
You should try a few tests like 1mil stain to 100 mil clear 3 mil to 100 mil etc til you get a good colour. Add other stains to enhance it like a little red or yellow but KEEP A RECORD of your tests so you can duplicate it when the 1st batch runs out
Have fun and you will end up with your own blend which will prolly look better.ray c
dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'
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11th March 2006, 07:58 PM #4
May I suggest that you read Neil's book on finishing?
Softening a deep red can be done with a green tint, I understand. Also, choose between a dye and a stain; there's quite a difference.
Have some scrap timber of the same type, and then experiment!
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13th March 2006, 05:12 PM #5
You are expecting too much
I reckon Walnut or Black Japan would give you that colour or pretty close. The pink colour is most likely coming from the timber not the stain and will probably cause a problem right through the process.
The original in the pic also looks to have a distinct red tint to it and most likely has. It is almost impossible to reproduce the colours of timber in a brochure and definitely not on a computer monitor as they are all different.
Cheers - Neil
PS the only real way to get what you want is probably going to be to bleach the timber to get rid of the pink. Even then you could strike a problem. The best way to get that colour on oregon is to burn it with an oxy torch then go over the whole thing with steel wool. Used to do it a lot back in the mid 70's (Spanish Style furniture) Rough n rustic.
The other way is to hand pick the timber so it has no pink in it to start with.
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13th March 2006, 09:11 PM #6
Firstly Neil has forgotten more about this than I will ever know but I can tell you something about mixing colours. There are two colour spaces you need to know. The first is RGB or Red Green Blue the second is CMYK the so called negative space that printers use. It's called negative because CMY combined in equal amounts are meant to produce black. It tends to be a muddy black so that colour set has a black or K ink in it as well.
SO RGB Red Green Blue
CMY Cyan Magenta Yellow
Red is opposite Cyan if you have too much red add some cyan
If you are getting too much green add magenta
and blue is opposite yellow.
It will often help you if you are adjusting colours to think in terms of whether it is too warm or too cool.
StudleyAussie Hardwood Number One
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14th March 2006, 06:07 PM #7
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thanks so far guys...
burning sounds good to , don't have a torch handy at the moment though.
basicly as long as it's a nice deep brown i'm happy, dos'st have to be perfect to the photo...and rusic is good too, but not too rustic
just trying the rust ebonizing solution at the moment, it seems to be producing a real brown, thought i'd just go over this with a wipe of some stain, i'm trying to give the black japan a miss as it's so time consuming and messy and i keep making mistakes with it and it ends up to dark, need some simply stain that wipes on easy and i can perhaps just use 'wipe on poly' on top, just trying to keep the process simple, the stress is getting to me...
as anyone any idea what sort of stains they use on the rustic furniture that comes from Indo, some of it is a nice brown and some a nice choc/wenge...
Wendy. glad you like my signature, i finally reached somebody...!!Hurry, slowly
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14th March 2006, 06:58 PM #8
got an idea blackwood is high in tannins so it may be worthwhile fuming it with industrail strength ammonia.
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14th March 2006, 07:19 PM #9
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are hardwoods higher in tannon tan oregon...
still applying coats of my vinegar/rust solution, and the oregon has become quite a nice even brown, will put another coat after dinner...Hurry, slowly
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14th March 2006, 08:33 PM #10
Worth a try
la H,
Try some antique walnut stain, rag it on and you may have to do two workings to get it dark enough. It works with fairly consistent results for me. Try some on some scraps first and you decide. Some of the results can be seen at
http://gallery.groov-e.com/
The chest of drawers, the video cabinet, and the bedside chests have been done with this. The items mentioned have this stain and then sprayed with satin estapol for several coats. Hope this is of help.
Regards Mike
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14th March 2006, 08:53 PM #11
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nice work Micky !
yes that antique stain has a real warm colour, where do i get this from...
put another coat of rust on and the oregon has taken on a odd brown, it's an excellent base colour, so i put a bit of vandyke over that and got a nice rich deep brown, vandyke crysals however raises the grain to much so i'll have to work on that...this antique stain might be just right as a glaze sort of coat...will this take wipe on poly or lacuqer...Hurry, slowly
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