Finish options for Redgum coffee table?

[hamster]

Hi All,

I'm in the midst of building a redgum coffee table for my new showroom (www.theloudspeakerkit.com) and don't want to repeat the disaster I had with my Redgum dining table last year (the lacquer was a pain to apply and quickly "de-laminated").

I am looking for a hardwearing finish that is easy to maintain as the coffee table will be in my new shop and no doubt get sat on and coffee-ed regularly! I don't want to have to use coasters for hot/cold drinks if I can avoid it.

I want a natural finish which doesn't isolate the wood. I'd also like quite a nice sheen on the surface of the redgum without the artifical wet look of lacquer or epoxy.

I've tried using Triton Oil (burnished) on a Vic Ash coffee table and am happy with it's ease of maintenance but the finish is not very impressive (it's a bit dull) and the redgum deserves more I think.

What do folks recommend? Do I go a traditional wax finish, triton oil or some sort of combo? I'd appreciate opinions and application suggestions as I will eventually get around to re-doing the dining table as well.

I read through ubeauts info and some of the products instructions seem to conflict - for instance on the shellawax it says never use steel wool on timber but the traditional wax one says to use 000 grade steel wool? Is this only a function of the finish?

Thanks in advance.

Marcus

[ubeaut]

G'day Marcus - Stop reading between the lines. I don't remember where it said insert your own interpretation here. Strewth!

I have never said to use steel wool on timber what it does say is:

Brush on 2 to 3 thin coats of shellac or 2 coats of sanding sealer. Allow to dry, then sand lightly with 400 grit abrasive. Now apply a thin even coat of Traditional Wax using 000 or 0000 steel wool as the applicator.

Note the first line: Brush on 2 to 3 thin coats of shellac or 2 coats of sanding sealer. By doing this you are using it on the finish (sealer) not the timber.

The only time I advocate the use of steel wool on timber is when used in the removal of stripper during a restoration.

To the table finish. If you don't want to use niotro on your table, I would use shellac (preferably white or dewaxed white) followed by Traditional Wax. Definitely not a tough durable finish, but an easy one to keep looking nice.

Triton oil (or Organoil) used in strict accordance with the instructions, then followed with a buff up using Traditional Wax a few weeks later should give you a very nice finish also. You must however follow the application instructions for the oil, to the letter. Preferably using a high speed random orbital sander for the application.

Hope this helps.

Cheers - Neil

[Shane Watson]

Geez Marcus,

Your a hard man to please! You want a 'hard wearing finish' 'easy to maintain finish' but you also want a 'natural finish' & a 'nice sheen'!

'In my experience' its hard to have them all.

You'll have to make your mind up first as to what you really want.

Personally if I was putting somthing in an environment that dictated a possiblilty of heavy usage I wouldn't consider any other finish than that of a two part lacquer. And yeah, 'done properly' ya average Joe can't tell the difference between that & an oiled or waxed finish.....

If your lacquer is delaminating whenever you use it - I would recommend you consider looking into classes so you can gain some proper 'experience'. Lacquer is a practically a fool proof finish.

Cheers!

[hamster]

Originally posted by ubeaut:
Brush on 2 to 3 thin coats of shellac or 2 coats of sanding sealer. By doing this you are using it on the finish (sealer) not the timber. [/B]

D'Oh! Sorry Neil I should have read it more carefully! What I have found is that when it comes to finishing it is hard to find resources about the pro's and con's of all the different choices out there. For a beginner the range of choices is confusing. I've also found that the instructions that come with many products assume a level of knowledge that is often not there.

Shane,

The NC lacquer I used on the other table was a single part, is there a particular 2 part brand you would recommend? Are 2 part lacquers dangerous to spray at home? Lastly, I think your suggestion of classes is a good one, I've been using the force for too long and need some lessons... is this a TAFE type of thing?

Thanks,

Marcus

[Shane Watson]

Originally posted by hamster:
D'Oh! Sorry Neil I should have read it more carefully! What I have found is that when it comes to finishing it is hard to find resources about the pro's and con's of all the different choices out there. For a beginner the range of choices is confusing. I've also found that the instructions that come with many products assume a level of knowledge that is often not there.

Shane,

The NC lacquer I used on the other table was a single part, is there a particular 2 part brand you would recommend? Are 2 part lacquers dangerous to spray at home? Lastly, I think your suggestion of classes is a good one, I've been using the force for too long and need some lessons... is this a TAFE type of thing?

Thanks,

Marcus

[Shane Watson]

You have got to be BS'ing me! I had a big response all typed out and it hasn't appeared!

Here's the condensed version...

I use mirotone lacquers only. Thats not to say other commercial brands such as Wattyl Croda etc are no good. Just steer clear of DIY brands ( I won't name them, but you can't miss them in places like Bunnies)

Yeah you can spray 2-part without danger at home, thats if you don't give a damn. Although some (very few I would imagine) councils do allow you to spray a very small percentage of 2-part products without the use of a spraybooth. For the average person wanting to persue the 2-part avenue there are brushable products on the market, how good they are, I have no idea. Don't forget exceptionally great quality respirators though & not them disposable paper dust masks you see being used on Homw Improvement Shows.....

TAFE is probably a good place to start although very few TAFE's actually offer a course in this field. The only TAFE I know that offers this course on the East coast North of Sydney through to Cape York is ITHACA TAFE in Brisbane (look for my name on the highest acheivers board in the finishing department!!) Others here from the Melbourne area may be able to offer further advice on courses available to you down there. Maybe theres someone offering private lessons??

Anyway thats all I can remember from my missing post....

!

Cheers!

[ubeaut]

Try this.... "A Polishers Handbook" The latest edition will be out in about a week with around 50 page of updated and new stuff.

Holmsglen TAFE runs courses in just about everything to do with woodworking and allied trades. Give them a call. Great place. I would say probably the best in Southern Hemisphere. Open day and night for about 360 days a year.

Cheers - Neil

PS I choose to use Haymes nitro, because it is made in Victoria (Ballarat to be exact) and is fully Australian owned. Apart from that I have always been extremely happy with their products and support when needed. I realize that they are not an option throughout the whole of Australia, but if more people support them, maybe they one day will be. Good old Haymes about the only one left who hasn't sold out to overseas owners.

[Shane Watson]

Well I'll be buggered Neil. I never even knew there was an Aust owned manufacturer around.... Give me some contact details if you wouldn't mind. Although like you said it might not be feasable up north here, but I am getting so sick of the crap you have to go through at times with the major companies...

Cheers!

[Sir Stinkalot]

Ahh Mr Haymes .. Very much a local company.
When I was living in Ballarat Mr Haymes and his family lived behind us ... I used to throw rocks (small) in his swimming pool ... Until he covered it. Please dont tell him

Sorry to lighten up some of the recent postings.

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May the stink be with you

[Hugh1]

I use Organoil hard burnishing oil & bees wax,i have pics up of my red gum table.