Pavers (strip 1 paver wide) - sub-base, how to lay etc.

[yael]

Hi,

I'm looking for some advice about putting pavers down. We are building a small decking for our shed to sit on, but it needs to be built slightly away from the fence line to allow for the overhang from the gable roof. We decided we would put down pavers around the base, so it doesn't just become a mud path. It won't get very much foot traffic (except for a few just where the door to the shed is.

The pavers are 400x 200. They will only be 1 paver wide for e length, which means that we don't really have anything to keep them from shifting from side to side. We have dug out the garden bed that was on part of the area, so it is pretty level. We are going to get a compactor to run over the whole area.

Just not sure what to put down as a sub base under the pavers. As they will be button between the fence and the shed on 2 side, I won't be able to get back in and fix it if they do shift, I was thinking of putting down crusher dust, and possibly mixing it with concrete.

Just wondering if people think that this is the best sub base to use? Should I mix it with concrete? What type of concrete do I use? What ratio do I mix it with? Do I need to wet it? Do I need to compact this once, if I have already compacted the dirt underneath? Should I build a border with wood to make the channel to lay the pavers in? Once I've done the sub-base do I put down a layer of washed sand & screen it? I googled quite a lot about laying pavers, but as there is only 1 paver wide it was hard to work out what to do in my situation. It said that you normally use a bit of mortar for the pavers on the edges. Should I use mortar at the edges? Do I use mortar between in the gap between the pavers? What space do I out between the pavers to stop any shifting? Do I put gap sand down once I have laid they pavers? Do you roll the compactor over the top of the pavers once you have laid them and put whatever substance between the gaps, or just bang them with a rubber mallet?

Anything else I should consider before proceeding?

I was thinking of getting somebody in to do it, but people were asking over $400 to do the job, even though they ground in prepared and there is a total of 26 pavers to be put down, that we have already bought. I figured that I could probably manage it myself, especially as it is only for edging and doesn't need to be perfect like a driveway.

Thanks so much in advance.

Yael

[Wrongwayfirst]

The landscape fellah on better homes and gardens would get a big plop of mortar on the ground. Make sure the back of the paver is wet.(dry paver will suck moisture from concrete and make it weaker) Plonk paver onto your mortar, trowel the squished out edge, level and done.

that would be a step above level out the dirt and put down the pavers.

the rest is up to you on how much time effort money.

ie level dirt area, add roadbase, compact, lay paver sand and level. Lay pavers and add a mortar edge 45 degrees to the open side of the pavers to hold them in.

cheers

[Handyjack]

... sweep a sand / cement mix into the gap between pavers. The cement (dry) will with rain go hard a reduce the risk of weed growth.

[Glenn.Visca]

A few years back, I built a masonry retaining wall about 100m long, and about 4 feet tall out of large format dry stacked bricks.

Anyways, as the foundation (recommended by manufacturer) I laid b grade crushed rock ... Quite fine with lots of stone dust. I tamped it all down with my feet, smoothed the surface, and took a measurement with my theodolite. I then hired a compactor and went over and over and over again. Result ... Compactor was waste of time. Another measure with theodolite showed no movement whatsoever.

So my recommendation ... Crusher dust / b grade crushed rock base ... Stomp down with feet, then 50mm washed river sand, more stamping, screed level, then pavers.

Haunch with a strongish mortar mix (5 sand to 1 mortar). Ensure the mortar only comes up the side of the paver about 1/2 way ... Just enough to form a lip under the base of the pacer to hold it firm. When you haunch, you need to back to virgin ground, removing sand and crushed rock. The you have a solid rim around the whole lot.

Also, use a spade or trowel to cut joints in the haunching if you have a long run. If it does move, you don't want all the haunching to fail.

Depending on the paver, sealer may be required to stop any color leach and stop contaminants (bird crap and the like).

The depth of foundation depends on soil type and structure. Your garden supply fella should be able to advise.

[rsser]

Maybe just packing sand would do the job. Cheap and easy to work. Make sure the pavers end level with the surrounding surface.