Wooden Planes

[Rhys Cooper]

http://www.hntgordon.com.au/prodcata55smoothingplane.htm

I am going to be in the market for a No.5 smoothing plane in the near future.

I already have a No.4 Stanley and a 110 Block Plane (cant remember brand).

I have read about the ‘advantages’ of wooden bodied planes, less friction, how the plane ‘glides’ over the timber, the ‘see through shavings’, etc…

I have done a bit of research on HNT Gordon planes…I am very impressed J

The above link is the plane I am enquiring about.

Anyone own the above plane?
Should I get the HSS or TS blade…keeping in mind that this plane will be used for planning, and not necessarily scraping?
And seeing as I am after a No.5…is the above plane actually the equivalent of a No.5?

Thanks
Rhys

[sCORCH]

Gidday Rhys,

Depending who you ask, a number 5 may or may not be considered a "smoothing" plane (as I'm sure you know).

The A55 is probably closer to the "equivalent" of your number 4, although it'll likely produce far better results on hard-to-plane timbers and highly figured woods, due to it's higher effective planing angle.

For what it's worth, I have a "normal" HNT gordon smoother, a trying plane, and an "old style" aussie jack plane. All are excellent planes that produce fantastic results.

Because of the higher planing angle on the HNT planes, you will find a bit more grunt is required to plane with them, and so you want a very fine cut - fortunately this is possible to achieve after only a little practice.

If it's a number 5 equivalent you are after, then the jack plane is probably closer - it has a slightly wider mouth and a slightly thinner blade (or at least mine does - check the specs) than the smoother. It's also a little longer. Generally speaking these are the characteristics of a number 5 - although with the Stanley type planes, much of this is determined by how you have tuned up the plane, whereas with the HNT's much of the variability is taken out of your hands by the design.

Hope that helps a little.

sCORCH

[sCORCH]

Oh - I have TS blades and haven't had a problem so far - but I haven't punished them too badly yet!

If you get more of them, it's worth considering that the smoother and trying plane blades are interchangable - so maybe get one HSS and one TS, should you happen to decide to get both in the future.

sCORCH

[Rhys Cooper]

hmmm, well thanks sCORCH
http://www.utas.edu.au/asff/toollist.htm

The above list is the tools I will be requiring for next year (not that I will be needing all of them from day one)

Handplanes are recommended, as before the course starts we have a 3 week 'tool start program', maintanence, sharpening, etc.

Just trying to make the correct/suitable purchases...obviously this list isnt 'the bible'

But thanks again sCORCH...I just sent an email for a catalogue from HNT Gordon

Rhys

[Rhys Cooper]

http://www.hntgordon.com.au/prodcatajacknew.htm

Looks good, but all will be decided at the WWW Show in Sydney, where I can *hopefully* have a hold, 'feel', drool, talk etc.

[kevjed]

Hi Rhys,
I've a few of the HNTs and they are great. Terry Gordon will do an A55 Jack plane with a screw adjuster if you ask for it as the Jack Plane does not have this feature by default.
I'd have a chat to Thumbsucker about the attitude of some of the instructors in the course you are about to do re the use of timber planes. For some reason they where not happy with students having them. Silly if you ask me...they are wonderful tools.
If you need a number 5 stye plane the HNT gordon Jack is a great way to go. But its all down to personal choice
All the best
Kevin

[Rhys Cooper]

Thanks mate...good news about the adjuster.

I will send Thumbsucker a PM tomorrow, he has helped me out before a couple of times.

thanks mate
Rhys

[kevjed]

Any time.

[Sawdust Maker]

Buy a piece of steel in the order that thumbsucker is putting together and make your own. He even has plans for the classic krenov style

[Rhys Cooper]

Wil look into it sawdust maker...

[funkychicken]

Buy a piece of steel in the order that thumbsucker is putting together and make your own.

Or pay me to!

[eddie the eagle]

Hi Rhys,

Don't buy the wooden plane yet.

The reason why they're hesitant is there's more of a learning curve in using a wooden plane, grip is different, etc...

The furniture school need to teach you how to set up and use a plane properly. They've specified the No.4 or No.5 for this. As a teacher, I wouldn't want to show people how to work in two completely different methods/tools of work when showing them the basics. Better to teach one way, then branch out later.

Add to this, the fact that you're likely to come across Stanley-style planes in general use, and you're better off learning the basics of planing first on a metal plane.

Buy a second-hand old plane. If you *must* buy a No 5 plane, buy a 5 1/2 second hand. It's one that trade and furniture makers use. The No. 5 is too narrow for general use outside of carpentry.

Do you still want that old No.6 fore plane for the cost of postage?

(Oh - and how did you go in D&T/Ind Tech marks - Just curious and a pm is OK if you want to.)

Cheers,

eddie

[fletty]

I'm a lucky bugger and have a couple of restored Stanley 4, 4.5 and 5's, a Lie Nielson anniversary 4.5 and a low angle smoother .... but my go-to plane is the HNT A55 smoother. The only time I now reach for another is to grab the low angle for end grain work.
If you've got the time, drive up to Alstonville (near Lismore and Byron Bay, NSW) and Terry will let you try one.
Fletty

[Rhys Cooper]

Hi Rhys,

Don't buy the wooden plane yet.

The reason why they're hesitant is there's more of a learning curve in using a wooden plane, grip is different, etc...

The furniture school need to teach you how to set up and use a plane properly. They've specified the No.4 or No.5 for this. As a teacher, I wouldn't want to show people how to work in two completely different methods/tools of work when showing them the basics. Better to teach one way, then branch out later.

Add to this, the fact that you're likely to come across Stanley-style planes in general use, and you're better off learning the basics of planing first on a metal plane.

Buy a second-hand old plane. If you *must* buy a No 5 plane, buy a 5 1/2 second hand. It's one that trade and furniture makers use. The No. 5 is too narrow for general use outside of carpentry.

Do you still want that old No.6 fore plane for the cost of postage?

(Oh - and how did you go in D&T/Ind Tech marks - Just curious and a pm is OK if you want to.)

Cheers,

eddie

Thanks eddie.

I will send you a PM shortly (next few days) regarding the No.6, thanks very much.

Went ok in Design and Technology, I got 81 overall (band 5)

Industrial Tech I got 88 overall (band 5, missing out on band 6 by 2 marks, was pretty bummed about it)

Thanks again.
Rhys

[eddie the eagle]

Great results, Rhys.

Congratulations.

Cheers,

eddie