Who has used a Sam Malouf mixture?

[tonyw]

Does anyone have experience with the Sam Malouf mixture, which I understand is a mixture in equal parts of polyurethane, tung oil and linseed oil?

Cheers, Tony

[Claw Hama]

Yep, I use it all the time, great brew. Boiled Linseed, any Tung Oil brews (China Wood Oil etc) and pretty much any poly you have on the shelf. If you use pure Tung oil sometimes a little extra drier like Terebine helps. Put it on leave for 10 - 30 min and rub off just before it gets tacky (or its hard work) leave it for a day or so and do it again. Done. Two coats is usualy enough but you can put more.

[Wongo]

I use it full time except for hard wearing table tops. For ployU I choose high gloss, because it gives a satin finish. Use satin poly and you get a low sheen finish. You must sand the wood to silky smooth if you want to get a good result. I normally apply 6 to 7 coats. Make sure you rub off completely without any wet spots. Good luck.

[Claw Hama]

Yep as Wongo says, and works better on closer grain timbers.

[Waldo]

Just as Wongo says and Claw too.

I've experimented as to what grit to sand down to and for the best results, for me anyway, I've found going all the way down to 1500 gets me glassy smooth results with a minimum of 4 coats of Maloof.

As Claw has written, take your time and don't rush the application of each coat - wait a day between coats.

It's a great mixture and dead easy to apply and pretty much fool proof - just be anal about wiping on and wiping off. The Karate Kid movie applies here.

[pampelmuse]

As a point of interest for someone who hasn't used the mix but has used all the seperate components as finishes, can anyone advise what is the supposed or observed benefit of mixing these finishes?

[Wongo]

It is tougher than an oil finish and it is easier to apply than a ployU finish. It is really hard to stuff it up, even Waldo can manage it.

[Claw Hama]

Stands up to external conditions far better than most oils or varnishes I've seen too.
The Chinese used Tung Oil externaly for hundreds of years and the Europeans used Linseed, mixed with the toughness of some poly its a good brew.

[Bob38S]

Anyone care to give their favourite brands of components as I have heard that some are better than others.

[Claw Hama]

Cabots CFP Floor finish (toughest by far on the market)
Any Boiled Linseed
Originaly I had 10 ltrs of Tung Oil Seal (had driers in it) that I got from
a cleaning suppliers. But since then I have mostly used FW China Wood Oil
And 30mls mls of Terebine to a 1ltr mix.

[crow400]

Having used the Maloof mix (with great satisfaction) I would suggest the following ;-
Mix only the amount needed so as to be using a 'fresh' mix.
Apply a number of thin coats to build the finish required. The more coats applied, the more glossy the finish. Between the first coup[le of coats perhaps a light (800 - 1200 grit) sand is needed.
Easy to use and easy to renovate when needed.
Bruce

[Sawdust Maker]

Thanks all for this discussion

I think I'll have to move to this recipe as I'm totally sick of poly

[Claw Hama]

Horses for courses Nick, I use the Sam mix when people want a more natural finish, just a couple of coats and your done. If you want a more glossy finish you can keep going but that takes more time. So if I have clients that want a more glitzy finish I the poly but then buff it back, still pretty quick but has a very different feel and "feel" to poly.

[Christos]

Has anyone used this on pens or turned pieces?

With or without the lathe running?

[Claw Hama]

Because Stud, I mean Christos, makes some realy cool pens. Whatever you used on mine is standing up ok Christos. I carry and use it every day.