Rammed earth

[CROUDACE]

Is it possible to make a rammed earth floor? If so, is it moe expensive than a concrete slab?

[bsrlee]

Depends on how cheap you can get sour milk

Seriously, that is how the earth floor is traditionally stabilised - beaten down and then flooded with sour/stale milk - the cassein in the milk bonds the dirt together like cement.

[DavidG]

I thought we used cow poo in the floor mix:confused:

[ozwinner]

I thought it was cows blood that bonded it all together.

Al :confused:

[Gra]

I thought it was cows blood that bonded it all together.

Al :confused:

Al, I didnt know you were a mason...

O hang on that would be goat's blood...

That explains a few things then doesnt it...

[ozwinner]

Al, I didnt know you were a mason...

Derhhh, I lay masonry, so what am I??

Al

[echnidna]

A Brick Plucker

hang on,

Brick Layer

Chooks lay rounded eggs.

Do bricks catch on the way out?? :eek:

[Exador]

A Brick Plucker

hang on,

Brick Layer

Chooks lay rounded eggs.

Do bricks catch on the way out?? :eek:

Not if you've had a recent check-up.:eek:

[Exador]

Is it possible to make a rammed earth floor? If so, is it moe expensive than a concrete slab?

You'd be intending to use cement stabilisation in Perth, so the answer is yes and no.

I believe the current fashion is to use 8% or so cement in walls, and flooring needs a more abrasion-resistant surface, so if you were intending to use the floor as is (without overlay), you'd definitely need at least that. Without checking, my recommended process would be:
1. excavate at least 150mm below intended finished surface level, preferably deeper.
2. Mix the soil, cement and water to approximately modified Optimum mioisture content. You will need to have a compaction test done on the stuff anyway, just so you can have your relative compaction checked as you compact the floor in place. Several labs in Perth can do that job for you.
3. Compact the soil back in place in layers. You may wish to add some form of fibre to the mix at this stage, or you could simply place some mesh (probably F72 would be adequate, but seek advice) between the layers at the appropriate depth. I would be aiming for density ratios of 102% modified. Choose layer thicknesses appropriate to the compaction equipment you've got. If you're doing it pre-construction, use a small roller and layer thickness of perhaps 100mm.
4. Finish with a screeded soil/cement slurry to level.

The whole lot should cost you a lot less than a slab if you do the work yourself, although there will be additional costs such as testing and plant hire. How hard do you like to work?

[CROUDACE]

Craig Thanks for a very helpful reply.

[Exador]

Craig Thanks for a very helpful reply.

You're entirely welcome. I hope it goes well.