Staining gone not so good

[jeddog]

I have made a lamp box with Tasmanian Oak. It is 6 pieces at 130mm x 130mm x 20mm to form a cube. I sanded with 80 grit then 120 then ended with 240 grit. Being new to this I seemed to have sanded across the grain. I also stained it with what was called "Black Japan". Now the stain has shown up the fault in my work.

My question is can I re-sand it and do I have to sand the whole thing again?
Or what would any of you do?

Regards Jed

I should add that I want to bee wax my cube once finished. I'm not to sure if that will hide any flaws?

[Master Splinter]

Resand and restain.

Typically, any finishing process (with the exception of something like spray putty) will only serve to highlight any flaws in the surface.

It's not uncommon for people to sand all the way to 2000-4000 grit to get the appearance they are after with a finish. Black japan should let you get away with less than that; I'd be surprised to get significant improvements in a 'to be waxed' piece after maybe 320 grit, but a lot will depend on the wood and the process and the exact appearance you are looking for.

[AngelaPetruzzi]

As said above, resand and re stain.
Depending on the "imperfections" highlighted, it may be an idea to gradually sand to 240, that is after 120 use 150 then 180# grit papers.

[LGS]

If you sand up to about 400 to 800, then wipe down with Metho at let dry, you should be clear of any grease and such. Then you can start with the Black Japan. This really needs to applied then sanded lightly with a higher grit than what you finished sanding the raw wood with. Repeated coating (until you have solid black with a mirror finish) and light sanding should bring a brilliant finish to the job. Personally, I'd steer away from Bees' wax.

Regards,

Rob