Wax on Queensland Maple

**MAPLEMAN** · 16th July 2009, 12:37 PM

Simply sanded these boards to 240 grit and finished with a coat of bees wax!

They came up a treat i reckon,Cheers Mapleman

**Wongdai** · 16th July 2009, 02:11 PM

Very nice!

**kandiman** · 26th July 2009, 12:40 AM

where did you buy the maple from and what wax did you use?

**R3R** · 26th July 2009, 02:02 AM

lovely figuring indeed

PM me please if you have some for sale like tht!

**MAPLEMAN** · 26th July 2009, 08:47 AM

Originally Posted by kandiman

where did you buy the maple from and what wax did you use?

We have about 50 cubic meters in stock,and yes it is all for sale;p.m me for more details,

Regular bees wax was used,only one coat was applied.It really is the most beautifull timber on this planet!!!

**rsser** · 30th July 2009, 10:55 PM

More Larry windfalls?

The wax pops the grain nicely but it's not that functional is it.

**MAPLEMAN** · 31st July 2009, 07:43 AM

Originally Posted by rsser

More Larry windfalls?

The wax pops the grain nicely but it's not that functional is it.

Functional??

It can be reapplied when appearance dulls,it is non toxic and food safe,and the timber does not look like a TOFFEE APPLE.

**rsser** · 31st July 2009, 07:47 AM

Well, you can get those benefits plus considerably more durability with Rustin's Danish Oil for example.

**MAPLEMAN** · 31st July 2009, 07:57 AM

Originally Posted by rsser

Well, you can get those benefits plus considerably more durability with Rustin's Danish Oil for example.

Simply answered your question about its functionality ! We could debate all day as to what finishes are "better"to use.It is purely a case of personal choice.

**footrot** · 31st July 2009, 09:31 AM

Mapleman, do you prepare your own beeswax finish. The reason I ask is I was making breadboards for my SIL yesterday and was pondering finishs. I ended up using olive oil, but also keep bees so have a steady supply of wax. The wax in its natural form is quite hard. How do you soften so it can be readily applied and absorbed into the timber. Any advice appreciated

**Cliff Rogers** · 31st July 2009, 09:37 AM

Footrot, expect a lecture about using olive oil on a kitchen board.

The subject has been done to death several times, I'll see if I can find a link for you.

**rsser** · 31st July 2009, 09:44 AM

Yeah, here we go again ;-}

With regular use of boards that get washed, finish really only matters when the things are new and sold or given away. A few months of chopping and washing and you get the priceless patina of use.

**Cliff Rogers** · 31st July 2009, 09:46 AM

Here ya go Footrot, read these....

https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=51983
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=61477
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=71588
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=86311
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=89774
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=90195

There are heaps more, do a search on Parafin.

**footrot** · 31st July 2009, 10:40 AM

thx Cliff. I see what you mean, there is some strongly held feelings out there on the topic. Enough said. I'll do a bit more background research on the topic of beeswax mixtures, mostly because its a resource I have and would like to use.

**rsser** · 31st July 2009, 10:53 AM

Spoke to a guy at a turnfest and IIRC he used a mix of soybean oil and beeswax, mostly soybean.

Gently heated the oil and melted the wax in it.

So prob soybean is one of those oils that harden as they dry like Tung.

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