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15th March 2020, 08:47 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
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- Brisbane
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- 623
Silver Manufacturing Co. Bandsaw Restoration
The was fortunate and blessed to be given a L.S. Barker Bandsaw which I picked up this weekend. It was standing outside in the rain when I picked it up at a custom joinery mob and was only too happy to give it some love and give it some well deserved blood sweat and tears. Am excited to start to restore this saw to say the least, to date the only machine I've restored is an old Dyco 12" Table Saw which I have just listed for sale to make some room.
Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures but basically it was covered with a custom made wooden protective cover around the wheels and blade. I took it to pieces and revealed the beauty. That classic C-frame ... can't beat it!
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The previous owner mentioned he was quoted a four figure sum for the bearings to be re-done... OUCH - Not 100% if the lower bearings actually needs to be re-done BUT there is some forwards and backwards play. Is there a washer of some sort that I need to put in place? What stops the wheel shaft from moving from side to side?
I took the top wheel off with the mounting assembly. Not sure how this comes apart? Where that grease collar as it turns freely. Should I be able to undo the hand screw? I can't for the life of me turn that inner serrated collar.
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15th March 2020, 11:29 PM #2
Nice find, always loved the style of the LS Barker machines. Never pulled apart an assembly like the one in your last picture but I'd give it a quick degrease and clean to make sure there aren't any pins hiding that could be tapped out. I've even found grub screws I swore didn't exist prior to cleaning [emoji23]
Should be a beauty once restored, I will be following along with interest. My first restoration was a Woodfast bandsaw so I have quite an attachment to the old ones now.
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16th March 2020, 02:07 PM #3
I'll also be following with interest.
I would guess that the collar on the end, or the wheel itself, can be moved on the shaft and then locked into place to eliminate that end play. Failing that, a washer as you suggest. A brass/bronze washer would be really nice.
Looking at the three bandsaws in your first picture, I'd say you've been badly bitten by the old iron bug .
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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16th March 2020, 04:50 PM #4
The previous owner and the four figure repair bill is something to forget . You can do it yourself if it needed doing . I’ve never done a Babbitt pour but it doesn’t look very hard . I’ve shaved and re fitted an old Babbitt bearing and it worked good after 30 years sitting in the weather . Their a simple strong good quality bearing . There is some good YouTube Babbitt watching to be had on YouTube
YouTube
Rob
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16th March 2020, 05:06 PM #5
Love me some Keith Rucker! So soothing watching him restore stuff.
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8th November 2020, 06:33 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 623
Cleaned up the table tops with a series of wire brushes, paint stripper disk and various grits of sand paper for the bare metal topside. This was back breaking work and took 5-6 hours! Have only sprayed them with an Etching Primer as I ran out of time. I know you are suppose to spray them within 24hrs of applying the Etching Primer but has anyone got any experience in spraying final coats a week or two later? Does it really matter that much?
Casted numbers on each tabletop are 1061 (main table) 1062 (smaller side table).
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9th November 2020, 10:53 AM #7SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 623
Managed to give some parts a lick of paint before work this morning. This is about as much spray paining I've ever done and quickly realised:
1) I am not that great at it, there is at least one spot I got some running.
2) I bought a cheap gun from China - whilst you can adjust fluid control, the fan control seems to be a joke!
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I think my saving grace with spraying is a I've used a good quality commercial/machinery grade paint with painting thinners (not cheap general purpose thinners, there is a difference apparently). My father bought this for me up on the Sunshine Coast. Does anyone know of a good paint supply guy in South Brisbane?
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9th November 2020, 04:48 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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- Apr 2013
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- Brisbane
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- 623
The saw doesn't have anything on it to distinguish what it is. I assume it may originally had some sort of brass plate. Does anyone have a LS Barker logo (ideally in SVG formate) per below - I am thinking of getting a sticker made up since trying to paint this on freehand is out of my ability to do.
LSBARKER.jpg
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9th November 2020, 06:28 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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- Apr 2013
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- Brisbane
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I remember when I picked up the saw, the previous owner said he was quoted a ridiculous amount of money to replace this bearing, hence why he gave it to me. SO ... what is this and how do you go about replacing such a bearing? I assume it's made out of brass?
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More context in the video below - you can see how much it's worn! The previous owner said it got to a point that they didn't use it anymore except for breaking up pallets.
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9th November 2020, 06:37 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2015
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 297
No expert but some bushes were made from sintered bronze. Maybe someone on the metal work forum will know.
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9th November 2020, 08:08 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
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- Little River
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It's a sintered bronze bearing and should be available from a bearing shop. Probably not in stock and being imperial will need to be ordered. You need to give them the size of the shaft, the size of the hole in the wheel and the length of the bearing. If the exact size is not available get one that can be machined down to fit.
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9th November 2020, 08:20 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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- Apr 2013
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- Brisbane
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- 623
Thanks - it looks more like the one below but maybe thats purely because of the metal shaft making it super smooth and shiny on the inside. What would be the easiest way to remove the old bronze bearing?
bearing-drive-gear-bushing.jpg
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9th November 2020, 09:11 PM #13
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9th November 2020, 09:33 PM #14
Id say press it out . Spray some of your spray freeze on the inside first . That stuff is a beauty . Never knew such a thing came in a can.
You could rig up a press out of scrap and use a jack to push it out . You need a long enough scrap piece of pipe that's just a bit smaller than the cast iron hub hole so it pushes the bronze through with the hub well supported. When stuck for the right size piece of pipe Ive turned Redgum fence post down to the right size to push out bearings.
Whats the outside and inside diameter of the Bronze bearing ? George white sell such material for turning .
LG2 Hollow Bronzes - George White
Could it be that barker used some standard pre machined size and all thats needed is the right size cut to length ??
Wouldn't that be nice and easy !
LG2 Pre-Machined Bushes - George White
Then all you need is someone with a lathe and the knowledge if the exact right size cant be had. A bronze bearing like that must be the exact right outside diameter so when its pushed in its a press fit . These engineer blokes know how many thou or 100ths on a mm over size that needs to be to work . The metal work forum here will get you the answer. All the right answers actually . Ive got a sander that needs such work and have heard this stuff talked about . I only know little bits and pieces of the puzzle . If you had a big enough lathe to do such work doing it yourself would be a great project .
First thing to do though is forget the talk of " Oh this type of thing costs heaps to fix !!" Only if you expect to hand it off for someone else to do all the work with their hand in your pocket at the same time . A real nice bloke told me that one about the
" hand in the pocket " . Your doing it the right way . Pulling it down and asking questions when you get stuck .
Rob
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9th November 2020, 10:57 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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- Apr 2013
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- Brisbane
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- 623
Thanks Rob,
OD of bush: 41mm
ID (actual shaft): 37.5mm
My callipers aren't accurate (cheap Chinese rubbish - awaiting to buy a new quality one). It sounds like any good machinist can do this. I've asked for recommendations on the metal working forum.
Good tip regarding the press - may actually put my lathe to use!