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Thread: woodturning finishes
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29th June 2011, 09:47 PM #1New Member
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woodturning finishes
gday,
i have a lathe and all the gear to do so but im not so sure about the way im finishing the bowls, i currently use beeswax as the finish but im looking for something more harder and shinier, what is the best cheapish product to use and how to apply it?
thanks
Cameron
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29th June 2011, 10:22 PM #2
Wecome to the forum Cameron. The Ubeat polishes are a good start. You will get lots of people giving you lots of options very soon I'm sure. Sometimes I use danish oil, the Ubeaut Shellawax is great, I also like the Traditional Wax. Hope this helps
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29th June 2011, 10:30 PM #3
In my opinion, three products that should be on every turner's shelf are Danish Oil, EEE and Shellawax.
These have been extremely well covered in these forums if you do a search, EEE & Shellawax are made by our forum host. ie. They're UBeaut products.
But to boil it down to a nutshell....
UBeaut Shellawax is more or less a shellac that's applied to the piece on the lathe. A little bit on a rag, press firmly and work it into the spinning piece. If properly done, your fingertips will get hot!
It's best to leave the piece for a week or three before giving it much handling. But this is true of any finish, really.
Danish Oil is wiped onto the finished piece, left until it goes tacky, then wiped off. Left for at least a day, lightly sanded back and then another coat applied. This process is repeated until you have enough coats to get the finish you want. Well done it's so, so glossy. Ooooh! Aaaah!
Some say "1 coat a day for a week. Then a coat a week for a month, a coat a month for a year, then a coat every year after that." Which has some element of truth to it. The best thing about a good* DO is that if the piece ever gets dented or scratched, you can just sand the area and give it a fresh coat.
(My personal preference is Rustin's Danish Oil... IMHO the muck you buy as alleged "Danish Oil" thru Bunnies, Mire 10, etc is really just a PolyUrethane that has had an eye-dropper's worth of tongue oil waved over the top of it. But that's a whole different soap-box that I probably shouldn't get on here. )
* = Good meaning "high proportion of Tung Oil, low to nil proportion of PolyU"
EEE is a pre-finish. No matter what finish I use, I always use this first. If I sand to, say, 600 grit then using this will give me the equivalent of... oh, I dunno... working down to about 12000 grit?
Just a bit applied to a rag and applied like a friction finish after sanding. Then, using a clean rag, all traces of it must be removed before applying the finish. Just keep polishing on the lathe until no more "colour" comes off.
Good luck and enjoy!Last edited by Skew ChiDAMN!!; 30th June 2011 at 04:50 PM. Reason: Dropped a 0 /facepalm
- Andy Mc
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30th June 2011, 08:12 AM #4Retired
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EEE is a pre-finish. No matter what finish I use, I always use this first. If I sand to, say, 600 grit then using this will give me the equivalent of... oh, I dunno... working down to about 1200 grit?
Just a bit applied to a rag and applied like a friction finish after sanding. Then, using a clean rag, all traces of it must be removed before applying the finish. Just keep polishing on the lathe until no more "colour" comes off.
The higher the better.
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30th June 2011, 09:40 AM #5
Yup, Danish Oil & Shellawax Cream for me, depending on the piece & its use.
I also have Shellawax of spindle work, tool handles etc & Traditional Wax.Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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30th June 2011, 09:53 AM #6
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30th June 2011, 10:32 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Everything the brains trust said.
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30th June 2011, 02:18 PM #8Member
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Great info to me!
Thanks all
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1st July 2011, 10:55 PM #9New Member
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thanks everyone that explains alot,
so i will get a shella wax product which one though? cream or the original bottle stuff?
cam
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1st July 2011, 11:06 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Cam,
I'd get the EEE Ultrashine to top off the sanding process and get Shellawax Cream to finish.
-Scott.
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2nd July 2011, 02:49 PM #11Retired
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This might help. https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/usi...llawax-131234/
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2nd July 2011, 04:03 PM #12Senior Member
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shellawax
HI ROBO
A question when sanding a bowl to 600 grit and eee cream,+ shellawax glow why do i get stains if it gets whiped with a damp cloth.
regards john.
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2nd July 2011, 04:19 PM #13Retired
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How long between finishing and wiping?
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2nd July 2011, 05:03 PM #14
This all depends on the size of the project.
The liquid is generally suited to smaller turnings where you can apply it and it is still wet when polishing, pens bottle stoppers etc
The cream was developed for larger turnings bowls, platters etc where you turn the lathe of apply the cream and then turn the lathe on to polish.Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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2nd July 2011, 05:30 PM #15Senior Member
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shellawax
12months john
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