Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    2,453

    Default Paint Brush maintenance - wire brush and flea comb and a gong for Minwax Lacquer

    Recently I had to lacquer several hundred boards, and I was using Minwax Oil Modified PU lacquer (Satin) which is about $55 for 4 litres locally. It says on the can that it is superfast drying - they're not wrong about that. The weather was pretty warm and the boards were mostly touch dry in just a few minutes.

    That's great for handling, but it leads to another problem - the lacquer also dries on the outside brush bristles very quickly, and in about 30-45 minutes there was a build up of lacquer on the bristles which was starting to affect the finish. As an aside, the rapid drying also restricted the self levelling properties of the lacquer.

    The answer was to use a wire brush on the paint brush, in the same way as a hair brush is used. That separated the coarser bits that were stuck together, and then by following up with a flea comb the brush comes up nearly as good as new (probably would have been like new had I adopted this procedure from the start). In the countless times that I did this I think only about 6 bristles were removed (prolly had to much dried lacquer to get through the comb).

    A quick rapid-roll between the palms to expel any loose particles and I was off again. Very very few left over particles got put back onto the job.



    And as for the Minwax lacquer - very happy with the result. These are boards to line the shed walls with so finish standard was not crucially important. I had previously used this product on the Yellow tongue floor and found it to be pretty durable. Sanded the wall boards (Cypress) to 150 grit, two coats of lacquer (rollered on with brush finish), sanded to 220 grit and vacced off, final coat, and they are very smooth indeed.

    Since then I have used the same brush for applying Sikkens Exterior Oil to the few boards that are being used externally, and the brush still looks fantastic (for me - and that's a bit of a record ).
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
    Posts
    2,966

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    .....

    Since then I have used the same brush for applying Sikkens Exterior Oil to the few boards that are being used externally, and the brush still looks fantastic (for me - and that's a bit of a record ).

    If brushes are looked after properly they should last a very long time. I have ones that my father was using some 30-40 years ago but I don't think all are made to that standard anymore. It can be a little bit of a lottery to get a really good brush.

    But if you find one look after it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    723

    Default

    Spray gun thinners is also very good for removing obstinate paint (also includes paint - deliberate or accidental - on the handle) from brushes.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas, USA
    Posts
    339

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Recently I had to lacquer several hundred boards, and I was using Minwax Oil Modified PU lacquer (Satin) which is about $55 for 4 litres locally. It says on the can that it is superfast drying - they're not wrong about that. The weather was pretty warm and the boards were mostly touch dry in just a few minutes.

    That's great for handling, but it leads to another problem - the lacquer also dries on the outside brush bristles very quickly, and in about 30-45 minutes there was a build up of lacquer on the bristles which was starting to affect the finish. As an aside, the rapid drying also restricted the self levelling properties of the lacquer.

    The answer was to use a wire brush on the paint brush, in the same way as a hair brush is used. That separated the coarser bits that were stuck together, and then by following up with a flea comb the brush comes up nearly as good as new (probably would have been like new had I adopted this procedure from the start). In the countless times that I did this I think only about 6 bristles were removed (prolly had to much dried lacquer to get through the comb).

    A quick rapid-roll between the palms to expel any loose particles and I was off again. Very very few left over particles got put back onto the job.



    And as for the Minwax lacquer - very happy with the result. These are boards to line the shed walls with so finish standard was not crucially important. I had previously used this product on the Yellow tongue floor and found it to be pretty durable. Sanded the wall boards (Cypress) to 150 grit, two coats of lacquer (rollered on with brush finish), sanded to 220 grit and vacced off, final coat, and they are very smooth indeed.

    Since then I have used the same brush for applying Sikkens Exterior Oil to the few boards that are being used externally, and the brush still looks fantastic (for me - and that's a bit of a record ).
    I had a professional painter pass on a trick to me this summer about keeping brushes supple. If using oil paints take a rag, soak with water, wring it out thoroughly and then soak it with mineral spirits/paint thinner or lacquer thinner. Wrap the rag around the bristles. Apparently the water in the rag helps slow down the evaporation rate of the organic solvents helping to keep your brush from drying out in the heat. I tried it and it seems to work.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  5. #5
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    2,453

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    I had a professional painter pass on a trick to me this summer about keeping brushes supple. If using oil paints take a rag, soak with water, wring it out thoroughly and then soak it with mineral spirits/paint thinner or lacquer thinner. Wrap the rag around the bristles. Apparently the water in the rag helps slow down the evaporation rate of the organic solvents helping to keep your brush from drying out in the heat. I tried it and it seems to work.
    A similar trick is to wrap the brush in plastic food wrap.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    A similar trick is to wrap the brush in plastic food wrap

    and place it in the fridge
    The plastic food wrap works quite well
    I've tried it with and with out the fridge
    And could not notice any difference

Similar Threads

  1. Avoiding drips when using a paint brush
    By Afro Boy in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 26th February 2014, 10:08 AM
  2. Brush coats nder spray lacquer
    By Arron in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 24th April 2012, 10:53 PM
  3. How to paint a new front door by brush
    By Dengue in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 8th March 2010, 10:07 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •