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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
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    50
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    641

    Question Red Gum Burl finishing.

    Hi all,

    I have just finished sanding a Red Gum Burl slab and will be fitting clock/barometer/thermometer/hygrometer to it. Just wanting to know:

    1. What I should use to fill the voids/cracks in it. Dont want to use wood filler as it will ruin the look of a beautiful piece of timber.

    2. What is the best way to get all the dust out of the voids without a compressor. Will a vacuum do the job?

    3. What should I do to finish the natural edge which is the weathered grey colour without changing the weathered look, which IMO enhances the colour of the face.

    Thanks in advance,

    Dan
    Is there anything easier done than said?
    - Stacky. The bottom pub, Cobram.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
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    Brisbane, Qld.
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    48
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    579

    Default

    Heres a quicky as I am reading about Saddam's capture on another site...

    1. Casting resin
    2. Wash with metho or blow out with a straw or bike pump with a needle ball inflating tip
    3. Whatever you use to finish the surface.

    Cheers!


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Lakehaven, NSW, Australia
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    57
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    31

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    Dan,

    What he said, plus:

    A dry paintbrush & vaccum can work well to get the dust out. Personally I'd leave the voids alone - more character, especially when you're leaving the outer edges on.

    I'd try a few coats of thinned shellac - gets right into the deep cracks & voids, then finish the face with EEE etc. Unless of course you want the real glossy surface, then maybe thinned poly. Like any wax product, EEE can be fun to get out of the voids & cracks, for which you really do need a compressor. Toothbrush/nailbrush might work, depending on how deep they are and how liberal you are with the wax.

    Good luck

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    Canberra
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    Default

    Dan, try burning the edge with a propane blow torch, use a wire brush with the grain to get rid of the ash.
    Cheers
    Barry

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Melbourne, Victoria
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    Thanks guys,

    Next question: If I use casting resin, how do I apply it and if I slop it on bits I don't want it on (entirely possible), will it sand off without ruining the timber? How will finishes go over it? Will it sand flush without going misty like glass does when abrasives are used?

    Thanks,

    Dan
    Is there anything easier done than said?
    - Stacky. The bottom pub, Cobram.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Newcastle
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    70
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    The trick with the casting resin is to seal the back first, and I mean really seal it with somthing like five minute epoxy then turn it over and very carefully pour the casting resin into the voids, starting with small amounts because if there it the slightest crack going through your casting resin will simply seep out to the lowest point. Also consider tinting your casting resin to suit the timber but I find jet black goes well with redgum. Finish with fine sanding and if you want the clear look get an auto trades polishing paste which will bring the surface up to glass clear.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    78
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    1,332

    Default

    What Len said. Also, casting resin shrinks a little, so it may pay to use it in two steps, the first almost to the top of the voids, then top it up with a second go.

    When filling bigger voids, you can build a 'levee' around them with string under masking tape, then fill above the void.

    When mixing casting resin, measure the proportions accurately, or you'll finish up with either a sticky mass that won't set for a week, or a hot blob with cracks through it.

    Notwithstanding the above, it's not too bad to use, and clear casting resin does look good with gum, and can be polished to a glass-like finish. Go for it.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    OR if you dont mind the "all verry glossy look" just seal the back up with masking tape & do the whole thing in pouring epoxy.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
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    Thanks for the tips guys. Got some casting resin and have strated filling the voids. Came up with a good way to measure the resin and catalyst. Bought glass 'pyrex' jug. has measures in every amount imaginable on the side. Then bought a couple of 5ml syringes (no needles). Use the jug to measure the resin and one of the syringes to measure the catalyst. Foolproof (almost). Have filled most of the voids and cracks and they shrank in a little. mixed up a new lot today and filled them the rest of the way. It is all looking good. Now to just sand and then finish. Going with dewaxed shellac, probably sprayed (believe it or not I have to drive 45 mins to get a decent brush), then EEE, then maybe Traditional Wax (U-BEAUT of course). Any thoughts on my choice of finish?

    All the best,

    Dan
    Is there anything easier done than said?
    - Stacky. The bottom pub, Cobram.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Virginia
    Age
    76
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    4

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    DanP
    I have purchased some Red Gum for use in knife handles. I wasn`t aware of all the spaces that would be in it. I hade to have it stabilized and to fill the voids I am going to use a product called Inlace. I do not know if you can get it there but you could find out. It doesn`t shrink , swell or absorb moisture.Once you use it --just seal it.Comes clear or colored and even in nugget form
    Here are some links that describes it. Good Luck.

    http://www.turtlefeathers.com/text/i...lace-dyes.html

    http://arizonagourds.homestead.com/inlace.html
    Be not afraid of the dark,be afraid of what hunts in the dark.

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