Hard shellac usage - I know read the book

[martink]

Yes, the book is now ordered but just in case it doesn't make it to my door in time I was wndering if there is any problem applying the orange shellac (Flakes) on timber first thence apply the hard blonde shellac over the top for protection. Will this cause problems with the finish later on or is it safe as houses?

Ta,

Martin.

[Tex B]

From memory, the back of my Ubeaut Hard Shellac bottle recommends the first coat be regular shellac, followed by one or more coats of Hard Shellac.

Maybe I have an old bottle.

Tex

[AlexS]

From memory, the back of my Ubeaut Hard Shellac bottle recommends the first coat be regular shellac, followed by one or more coats of Hard Shellac.

Maybe I have an old bottle.

Tex

Tex is correct.

[Bodgy]

Tex is often correct.

[martink]

Thanks fellas, was just concerned that using a waxed (as opposed to de-waxed) would cause the top hard shellac to do crazy things on me.

Ta,

M.

[ubeaut]

Don't use regular shellac under the hard shellac it may craze later on due to bifferent movement of the two products.

Better change that. Was there when we only made dewaxed white shellac which was what the label actually is supposed to refer to.

In theory the ordinary shellac should be OK but i have a niggeling suspicion........ The idea of using a non hardened shellac as a base is to make it easier for removal at a later date if it may be needed due to damage.

[martink]

Don't use regular shellac under the hard shellac it may craze later on due to bifferent movement of the two products.

Better change that. Was there when we only made dewaxed white shellac which was what the label actually is supposed to refer to.

In theory the ordinary shellac should be OK but i have a niggeling suspicion........ The idea of using a non hardened shellac as a base is to make it easier for removal at a later date if it may be needed due to damage.

Ah, I get it...I think anyways; I'm assuming the shellac you were refering to on the bottle is de-waxed shellac. If I mix up the flakes until disolved, leave it settle for a few days then decant the clear(ish) fluid off the top into a separate container this shhould de-wax it yes? Therefore I'm assuming that all will be good for using it under the hard shellac and that way I get the rich colour of the orange shellac and the protection of the hard shellac as well

Ta,

Martin.

[ubeaut]

Sounds good to me. might have to leave it for aweek or two to get good settling out. Also, much better if you use 100% IMS (industrial Methylated Spirits)

[Barry13]

Noticed that Luthiers Mercantile International have already updated the Ubeaut Hard Shellac instructions including helpful info on breakdown ratios:
U-Beaut Hard Shellac

• Hard Shellac is applied in the same manner as any normal shellac. The drying time is the same as regular shellac, almost instantly.
• Water dye may be used under the shellac to change the color of the wood to be polished.
• There is no need to use a sanding sealer or anything else under the Hard Shellac, however you may apply a weak solution of the shellac as a first coat using 1 part Hard Shellac to 8 parts denatured alcohol.
• This coat can be fine sanded after it has dried. This will seal the wood and dye (if used) and will give a beautiful smooth base upon which to build your finish. •
• Hard Shellac is light amber in color and even lighter after thinning. It should not darken the color of the wood it is applied to any more than wetting the wood with water or alcohol will darken it.
• Hard Shellac is a reasonably strong brew and may need to be thinned up to 50/50 with denatured alcohol depending on your application method.
• Application gear must be washed IMMEDIATELY after use.
• If rubber, brush or spray equipment is left to dry it will go rock hard and become unusable.
• Wash up and thin with denatured alcohol available at most good hardware and paint shops.

[ubeaut]

Very good and the recommendation on their site from luthier David Schramm (shown below) says it all. However Luthiers Mercantile no longer sell it so it is currently not available in the USA. Useby date and Dangerous Goods shipping appears to be the reason why.

Luthiers Mercantiles' last order was May 2014 so be warned...... If there's any still on sale by them (which I seriously doubt) it will now be well beyond the use by date and should not be purchased.

For what it's worth all U-Beaut Information Sheets and MSDS's are on line here >U-Beaut Polishes Information Sheets and MSDS's

Cheers - Neil

This 10 year old thread is now CLOSED.