Well after many questions and some advice from Larry M from this site i decided to post a few pics of my progress with my floor.

12mm blackbutt overlay flooring on an existing slab that had tiles on it with a 20mm mortar base i had to remove using a rotary hammer drill and a blade chisel.

Next was hirimg a Terazzo machine using the coarse stones was cheaper than using a concrete grinder and a much smoother finish.
I had to remove the excess mortar and crap off the surface of the slab to smoooth it down, worked very wewll but lots of dust which i vacuumed all the time.

Once that was done went and bought Selleys vbs slab sealer, started brushing around the edges and walls then poured amounts on the floor and rolled it on, have to work fast becasue its sets fairly quickly and wont spread after that.
I used 3 cans for 60sqm, one of them didnt cover much area it started to go hard after 10 minutes it was so hot it was steaming, but i managed to get good cover everywhere.

You can see where it was soaking into the concrete so i applied a bit more to cover it.
The next day i came home and it was all dry and sealer was hard as a rock, it was like a plastic film had be laid on it, so it seals the slab well from what i see.

Next was bringing timbert to the room sorting out the pieces laying a long row on the floor, once in was done we pushed the timber to the side installed the blocks for expansion gaps to the walls. Started trowlling the glue down, realise dlater we were using too much glue so we started using the trowwel properly the way they recommend. Let me tell you that glue is bloody strong even a little bit is enough to stick a pice of timber to concrete.

I used Larrys advice on clamping and pinning the last row of board to the slab and tightening the gaps with his wedge method,once the last row was pinned in place remove wedges and blocks and continue laying the next ten rows of flooring. removed the pins the next day. as shown in the pics.

Youll notice when we got closer to the walls we wedged a piece of timber to the walland hit it slowly against the flooring to tighten the gaps the go along and pin them down wih concrete nails, it was much easier this way than using the wedge method.

Hope this info is useful to otheres who want similar info on this topic.

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