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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    Sydney
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    55
    Posts
    8

    Default Best finish for Tassie Oak?

    G’day
    <o =""></o>
    I’m hoping for a little advice on finishing options for my current project. If possible I would ‘really’ appreciate if anyone has pictures they could post of their finished work to allow a general visual idea of how the finish appears.
    <o =""></o>
    My current project is a coffee table from Tassie Oak with (hopefully tasteful) Rose Gum inlays on the top. If this is completed to a satisfactory standard, permission will be granted to complete the full set, including the addition of an entertainment unit, 2 side/end tables and a telephone table.
    <o =""></o>
    One very important factor for the finish selected is that it doesn't ‘yellow’ the appearance of the timber. The dear wife wants a very light coloured timber, hence the Tassie Oak.
    <o =""></o>
    I have read a number of other posts including:
    <o =""></o>
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=34200
    <o =""></o>
    From this one, I am thinking the Feast Watson Floorseal finished with EEE Ultra Shine could be a good option. Or maybe the Minwax Wipe-on Poly as I noticed they have a gloss and matt options, EEE again to finish?
    <o =""></o>
    The problem is, I don’t really know how these products will affect the colour of the timber, or even if these are the best products to use. I’ll do a test before using them, but would rather spend the money on something that is ‘likely’ to work as wanted.
    <o =""></o>
    Can anyone advise on the above options?
    Any other options that will fit the bill?
    <o =""></o>
    And even better still, does anyone have pics they can post of completed work with light coloured timber and what finish they used?
    <o =""></o>
    Cheers
    <o =""></o>
    Dez

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Rosebud Vict AUS
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    Default

    See Deja Two in thread piccies, it is a peice made of self same T oak aka Vic Ash, finnished with home made wipe on poly and Trad Wax
    Jacko

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    East Warburton, Vic
    Age
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    3,538

    Default

    Here is a link to Deja two
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...highlight=deja

    Cheers DJ

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Melbourne
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    51
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    Default

    Hi Dez

    I finished this coffee table with Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil. It was easy to work with, smells good, and so far the finish has been resistant to marks.
    Cheers

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Earth, occasionally
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    Default

    Hi Dez,

    I like the Organoil products also and have used hard burnishing oil and Interior Finishing oil with success.
    With the Minmax Wipe on Poly, one is actually a satin finish and gives quite a nice glow and reflection. Doesn't seem to yellow the timber at all. The gloss is fairly aggressive and really gives a plastic look. In either case I think oil underneath adds character to any timber.
    I have attached photos of a bookshelf oiled with Interior finishing oil. It is made of European Oak (sides and top) and American Oak (shelves and back). If you look in Pics under Jarrah Blanket box (still on page 1, I think), the top is coated with satin Wipe on Poly.

    Hope this helps, Regards

    Rob
    Last edited by Flowboy; 1st November 2006 at 06:22 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bowral, NSW, Australia
    Age
    74
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    28

    Default

    I'm so glad Dez raised this question ( the same one I raised recently). Like Dez I would like a finish on Tassie Oak and Vic Ash that doesn't yellow. I've worked with organo oil and it not only yellows but it oranges! I'm trying to attach a picture from elphingirl to compare with some Vic Ash that I am working on at the moment. To me there is heaps of difference.<O</O
    When I described the Ash as being 'grey' some Forumites said I was colourblind but you make the call.<O</O
    <O</O
    I'm still looking for a finish that doesn't yellow and I'm favouring Cabots clear, satin water based at the moment.
    <O</O
    <O</O
    Carry Pine<O</O

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bowral, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Please notice the difference in these colours.

    Feel free to comment.

    Carry Pine

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
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    3,208

    Default

    The only finishes that don't yellow are white shellac and water based clears.
    But you will still get a colour change from any of the finishes.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
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    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Carry Pine
    Please notice the difference in these colours.

    Feel free to comment.

    Carry Pine
    It is hard to comment on the different colours visible in the pictures because so much is dependant on the lighting that was used when the pictures were taken.

    My understanding is that Tassie Oak is a kind of trade name under which 3 different (although similar) species of timber are sold. It is possible that some of the colour differences could be due the particular species that was sold to you as Tassie Oak. Also, even within a species you can see a bit of colour difference.
    Regards,
    Ian.

    A larger version of my avatar picture can be found here. It is a scan of the front cover of the May 1960 issue of Woodworker magazine.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Bowral, NSW, Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna
    The only finishes that don't yellow are white shellac and water based clears.
    But you will still get a colour change from any of the finishes.
    Yes, that's the conclusion I've come to. Thanks Bob.
    To Mirboo, everything you say is true about lighting and species but i find that in most finishes there is a yellowing of the timber. This is probably to prevent ultra violet light penetrating and the fact that people found the honey colour attractive. Personally, I don't like the honey colour and hope I've got the solution (!!) now.

    Carry Pine

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Default

    I did a tea box for SHMBO some time back , put a light stain on the lid and front 7 back as a contrast but left the ends natural , coated in wattyl satin speed clear and got no darkening of the tassi oak
    Rgds
    Ashore




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Toowoomba Q 4350
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    Default

    As Echidna said.

    My preference is for UBeaut's White Shellac.

    Just a note EEE is not a finish, but Trad Wax is, eg, I'll use shellac, buff with eee to cut and do the first polish, then buff with a couple of coats of Trad Wax for a great finish.

    cheers
    Wendy

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Port Sorell, TAS
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    59
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    177

    Default

    Yep. Blonde/white shellac, with trad wax. Try it! Neil may have further comment.

    Den
    The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde

    .....so go4it people!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    Thanks everyone for all the comments and the pictures!

    I'm a little hesitant about blond/white shellac although I have heard (not seen) that it produces a great clear finish. I haven't had great results from my application technique in the past so it's a bit risky!! I also didn't think it was very hard wearing and marks easily, therefore not a low maintenance finish for a coffee table... I could be wrong?

    I've used Wattyl products (estapol) in the past and can't say I've been greatly impressed with the result, hence my search for something that will give a more impressive finish. I'm not sure if you can cut and polish these and what the result would be.

    I realise any oil based product will change/darken the timber at least a bit so looking for something that will keep the natural unfinished itmber colour as much as possible.

    At this stage, it looks like my original Minwax Wipe on poly in satin (thanks Flow Boy) could be the way to go... I saw a great black heart sassafras entertainment unit in the picture gallery finished in this which is where I got the idea from. I know it's a different timber but it looked like it held is colour really well.

    Thanks again for the comments/suggestions and keep them coming if you think there's something better I could use! Still about a week away from crunch time so would appreciate any further comments.

    Cheers
    Dez

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Port Sorell, TAS
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    Default

    Maybe add a rag=applied Danish oil (wiping varnish) to the table surface only. You could trial this over the next week. Always good to suss on a decent sixe bit of timber first.
    The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde

    .....so go4it people!

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