Removing cement bagging

**PhilMcCrackin** · 29th March 2006, 08:10 PM

SWMBO has ordered the removal of cement bagging look over brick veneer house to be replaced with cement render.

Is removal posible? Does one just remove the paint and render over whats left assuming bagging is okay? How do you remove such paint? What sort of tools are required for this?

Any help appreciated.

**ozwinner** · 29th March 2006, 08:26 PM

Originally Posted by PhilMcCrackin

How do you remove such paint? What sort of tools are required for this?

Any help appreciated.

Like this..

Al

**johnc** · 29th March 2006, 10:58 PM

If Al's flame thrower doesn't work you're stuffed. You really only need to get rid of the paint if the bagging is solid, perhaps give it a bit of a prod with a bolster to see if it comes loose easily, probably not. Wire brush, sand blasting, anything that shifts paint. Maybe one of the plasters out there will reply with a really useful response.

John

**bitingmidge** · 29th March 2006, 11:11 PM

Nah, you're not stuffed. You might have been a few years ago.

Go down to the Rockcote mob in the street parallel to Maud Street (turn at the roundabout at the end of Sugar Road...)

Rockcote Enterprises Pty Ltd
Rockcote Display Centre – Maroochydore, Shops 3-4 Marjon Centre, 21 Trinder Ave, Maroochydore
Phone: 07 5479 3900

They have a beaut couple of acrylic renders which will go over the top.

If you need a plasterer who is pretty good, call Superior Exteriors (Drew).

This was an unpaid advertisement for both companies... wish I had shares in Rockcote at least!

cheers,

P (I've got that DVD here for you still!)

**PhilMcCrackin** · 30th March 2006, 11:23 AM

Thanks Midge & John

Ive not seen the acrylic stuff but I have used the q render in the past and was very impressed with its adhesion and finish qualities. Bloody expensive though compared with cement.

The paint is a bit flaky but from what I can see the render is reasonably solid. So I think I will give the sand blasting a go. Anything left should be good enough for this acrylic render (assuming it can go over cement bagging).

Thanks Midge, I completely forgot about DVD.

**Tools** · 30th March 2006, 07:13 PM

pressure washer is the go.

Tools

**Ekim** · 30th March 2006, 08:04 PM

I recently removed paint from a brick parapet wall (approx. 24m2) prior to c<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[IMG] /><st1:PersonName></st1:PersonName><st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>ent rendering. Three plasterers looked at the job. One advised that there is no need to r<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>ove the paint (see the last paragraph of this post). The other plasterers generally agreed that, as a minimum, paint had to r<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>ove from each corner of each brick with some paint r<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>oved from the middle of each brick. This procedure is sufficient to enable the c<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>ent render to stick.

Two options:
<O

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Use a 100mm angle grinder. Keep the grinder at a shallow angle to the wall so that the grinding wheel just skims the surface of the brick. In effect, you just brush the wall. Post back if you require more information/advice on this method.
Use paint stripper (this option may be too expensive for an entire house).

I decided to use the paint stripper method. It<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>s you will need:

Polystrippa’s Fast Acting Paint stripper (approx. $62.00 for a 4 litre can). Ignore the comment on the can that coverage is 0.4m2/ litre applied 2.5mm thick. You don’t need to apply the product this thick. I was getting approximately 2.5 m2/litre coverage.
A number of old brushes.
A number of containers (clean ice cream containers are ideal).
A high pressure nozzle (fits a standard garden hose). See comment below.
A stiff bristle scrubbing brush (Coles/Woolworth).
Bucket of water.
A ladder.
Safety gear – eye protection, a mask and a hat. Wear shoes, long pants and a long sleeve shirt (the procedure results in splash back off the wall).
Plastic drop sheets to protect garden beds etc.

<O

</O

The high pressure nozzle is made of brass and is about 6.5 cm and simply clicks into a standard click in/click out hose fitting. The business end has a small hole that projects water in a narrow stream at great force (far greater than a normal garden nozzle). I think the nozzle was purchased from Bunning or Mitre 10 (I’ve owned the nozzle for some 10 years).
<O

</O

Procedure:
1. Decant some paint stripper into a container and “paint” a section of the wall (say 2 m2). Don’t apply too thick. Periodically, you will need to change brushes and containers as these it<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>s become clogged with old paint.
2. Wait 5 – 6 minutes.
3. Wet the scrubbing brush in clean water and then scrub the treated area in a circular notion (keep the brush wet).
4. Syst<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>atically work over the treated area using the high pressure nozzle. In my case, approximately 75 – 80% of the paint was r<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>oved (the wall was double treated, which r<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>oved about 95 – 98% of the paint – as far as the plasterer was concerned, this was over kill). For best results, stand about 2 metres from the wall (hence the need for safety gear – you will get splash back with water laced with paint stripper) and keep the nozzle horizontal to the wall (hence the ladder).
<O

</O

I suggest that you try both methods on say two 1 m2 sections. Decide which method suits you.
<O

</O

A young plasterer advised that there is no need to r<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>ove the paint as he will “paint” the wall with Bondcrete, wait until it goes tacky, and then apply the c<st1:PersonName>em</st1:PersonName>ent render. More experienced plasterers derided this procedure – the render will stick to the Bondcrete, the Bondcrete sticks to the paint but guess what happens if the paint flakes off the wall.

**PhilMcCrackin** · 30th March 2006, 08:18 PM

Originally Posted by Ekim

More experienced plasterers derided this procedure – the render will stick to the Bondcrete, the Bondcrete sticks to the paint but guess what happens if the paint flakes off the wall.

My thoughts exactly.

**Pulse** · 31st March 2006, 09:37 AM

I'm with Midge, an acrylic render will stick over the acrylic paint if it is in good condition. This will make labour cheaper with more material cost. The other options are fine too but more labour cost and less materials. Go with Rockcote.

Pulse

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