Oil but glossy plz help

[section1]

I'm going insane over this the exact look I want to achieve is in the carba tec latest focus mag on page 11 AWR Box maker 2014 unfortunately I cannot find a sample pic on the net to show you.

Now I've tried burnishing with organoil burnisher and then applied EEE over it, nope didn't work I've tried every friggin ubeaut product out there and all I've managed to do is burn right through the oil and shellawax left blotches so I quickly learned it isn't compatible with organoil or maybe any oil.

I've used watco danish oil and and tried EEE on that the result was better but I didn't get that look, I haven't tried Rustins danish oil they tell me you get a thicker film than watco danish oil which is a good thing but from what I've read it's a dull look and that's not what I want. Finally I've read on a UK website that rustins teak oil leaves a glossy look but I cannot locate it anywhere here not even on rustins website. So how do I achieve that look.

Lastly I've tried the minwax paste wax and you do get a nice sheen but if you run your finger nail lightly on the timber it leaves a scratch mark which you cannot buff out also if you press fairly hard same deal.

I have lambs wool buffer installed on my lathe if I run it a high speed it burns through all the layers if I run it slow the gloss doesn't build up and eventually you burrn through all the layers so I'm at a lost I just don't know what to do. I want to use an oil to pop the grain but I don't want to apply any poly on it nor lacquer but I do want a glossy effect. How do I do it. How do the box makers do it.

[Timless Timber]

Just a suggestion, birchwood casey true oil?

I hand finished a European Walnut rifle stock with it once, and the more you rubbed it the shinier gloss it got... came up pretty well.

Don't know about the lambs wool pad with it - not sure how that will go - it seems to be the heat created by friction of rubbing makes the gloss, whether the pad on the lathe will be too hot and burn thru I don't know. The only time I've used a lambswool pad with wax etc - it was mounted on a car polisher like panel beaters use, which don't spin so fast like say an angle grinder does.

I would sand down to 1200 grit before oiling - in essence if you sand it until the wood itself shines... anything you add afterwood, will hopefully make it shine more.

Always tough to find a finnish you like.. but once you do - you stick with it - some woods with "high resin content" (resiniferous) occasionally won't take certain finishes well.

I guess I adloped the "suck it and see" principle... school of finishing.

Best of luck with it.

[tea lady]

I do rustins danish oil. 2 or three coats- rubbed on then whipped off. Then a day later rub Ubeaut Traditional wax. Let dry a bit then buff off with a soft cloth.

EEE is an abrasive so will rub back through the finish.

[section1]

I do sand all the way up to 1500 then I changed it to 400 aafter aplying a second coat of danish I would rub it with 400 to build a slurry and work my way up to 2000, ok so it's smooth and level but what about that glossy look.

[tea lady]

You do the slurry thing with the hard burnishing oil. But only at the low grits. Then after you have done a few coats at around 400 don't add more oil just go up in grits. Then burnish with lambswool last. Not too much elbow grease though.

Trad wax over DO for the glossy look. Trad wax is high canuba wax so won't mark as easily as bees wax finishes.

[section1]

Trad wax is traditioal wax sorry I'm not clued on with shortcut words

[Robson Valley]

I like the look of a high gloss finish on many of my (unpainted) wood carvings.
The Diamond Willow furniture shop down my street uses MinWax Tung Oil Finish
to show off the elegant grain patterns in wite and various shades of orange-brown.
Beds, tables & chairs ($2,000+), hiking sticks, canes ($50 - 70.)

I decided that I would use that.
I do three coats and get exactly the appearance that I was looking for.

> The diamonds vary from 2 - 15cm. They form as "rings" of elevated
> wood growth around the position of original branches. The effect
> appears to be created by some sort of fungus/rot infection.

[section1]

but is it the same look I'm after, I'm starting to think that maybe pure tung oil will give a glossy look am I wrong in my assumptions. What about that Liberon finish at carba tec will that give me what I want

[LGS]

Hi Section 1,

If the pics below shows what you are after, then try the following, using Wattyl Natural Scandinavian Oil (or Hard Burnishing Oil, but the HBO requires a bit more work and is easy to mess up.) Actually, you can also use pure Tung Oil diluted 1:2 in White Spirit. That works well also. I've used Liberon and Sceney's (The latter is about $20/litre and works well)

1. Sand the work piece to 400 grit using a Random Orbital Sander. (ROS) I start at 80 or 100 depending on the timber.
2. Saturate the work piece with the Oil and allow to sit for 15 minutes -half an hour.
3. Give the work piece another quick coat of Oil.
4. Begin sanding immediately, starting with the 400 pad you used on the dry timber. Use 10 up and down strokes with the sander on each segment of the work area.
5. Continue sanding, without removing the slurry, up through the grits. I use 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 4000g. Try to get to at least 2000 if you can.
6. Give the finished surface a vigorous rub with a soft cotton cloth and allow to dry for a few hours.

The finish is resistant to radiant heat and hot and cold liquids.

Regards,

Rob

[section1]

Thanks for that great info but I'm already able to achieve that look you have on the table top but the look I'm referring to is the one from the carba tec magazine page 11 where there is three joined love hearts boxes.

[tea lady]

Pure tung oil is a matt finish isn't it? Goes dull after a while anyway.

[section1]

I've never tried pure tung oil but I know it's best to thin it, I've spent quite a bit of money on various finishes and I still can't find the look I'm after. I've asked boxmakers before but they replied with a smile and looked the other way.

[LGS]

Pure tung oil is a matt finish isn't it? Goes dull after a while anyway.

Not if it's used as a burnishing oil and put on the right way. I've got furniture 6 years old that still has a shine to it.

[LGS]

Is this what you mean. The result in the "tray" with the fiddle back book match?

I get that daily using the method I detailed, but using Tung Oil, HBO or Scandinavian Oil

Regards,

Rob

[Timless Timber]

How glossy do you want?
I personally can't see your going to get it real glossy, if you sand to 1200 then start at 400 again once you add the oil.....

Again - if you sand it so fine that it shines before you put oil & wax on - then hopefully after the oil & wax and rubbing it should be even shinier!

My 2c