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Thread: Old jointer blade direction
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2nd October 2016, 11:57 AM #1
Old jointer blade direction
I bought an old jointer. Pulled the blades and sent them off for sharpening. Now that i am ready to install the new blades I realise i have no idea which way around they should go. Arrows indicate the direction of rotation. I'd appreciate any advice.
P1070821.jpgP1070820.jpg
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2nd October 2016, 12:12 PM #2
In the picture top right , spin the blade around , the sharp edge has to be coming at you , the bevel goes to the back . Blow out , and clean any dust and gunk build up so it's nice clean metal on metal when you put it back together as well . That's important for safety.
Rob
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2nd October 2016, 12:19 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Correct orientation is with the sharp end of the blade against the "groove" in the cutter block.
There should be a packing piece which goes on the side of the blade away from the "groove".
Make sure that there is no dirt or wood residue in the cutter block when you mount the blades, give the slots a good scrub with some abrasive like fine sandpaper or steel wool.
Just be sure that you set them both to be exactly the same height and level with the outfeed table.
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2nd October 2016, 01:00 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvbfdzkPPSg that was a good primer for me when i started
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2nd October 2016, 01:03 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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One extra thing, you don't need fancy expensive jigs to set the blades. As Colin in that clip says,a simple steel rule works as well as any of my gadgets
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2nd October 2016, 04:37 PM #6
Your first picture is the right way around. Second picture is the wrong way around.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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2nd October 2016, 06:11 PM #7
Thanks all for the tips. The blades are in. I spent a bit of time cleaning the cutter block with 180 nd 240 grit sandpaper then mounted the blades. The result is a little dissapointing.
Using the steel ruler method I've set the out-feed table to where I thought it should be. I guess I can adjust the out feed table a little at a time to reduce/remove the snipe but i'm pretty concerned about the tear-out.
The blades were (very) ordinary when i sent them away so I'm not really blaming the sharpening guy but it does seem like they could use some more work.
Is the tearout and clogging of the blades a result of poor sharpening or some other problem?P1070824.jpg
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2nd October 2016, 06:24 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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The blades are sticking out of the cutter block too far.
The groove on the cutter is a chip breaker (the same as on a hand plane) and you have to adjust the tip of the blades to be very close to the edge of the chip breaker to minimise tearout.
A good starting point would be about 1 mm or less and then you adjust for the timber variety that you are planing. The larger the gap the more tearout but also the ability to take a larger cut.
Some of the cheaper planers don't have that range of adjustment as you need to lower the outfeed table to match the new cutter positions but if you have one of the better machines you should have no problem setting it up.
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2nd October 2016, 07:07 PM #9
Hmmm, I would say the blades are fully inserted into the cuter block I cant see how the blades could be inserted any further to reduce the amount of blade tip sticking out.
I guess its possible they moved a tiny fraction as I was doing up the allen keys and also possible that there is still some gunk in the bottom of the housing but neither feel likely at this point.
Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely check those possibilities.
There isnt any blade adjustment (as far as i can see) only in feed table and out feed table adjustment
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2nd October 2016, 07:24 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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On the cutterhead, there seems to be a flat section between the blade slot and the rounded groove detail. I would not expect it to have a flat section. In your first posts photos, it looks like this flat section is a user modification such as a piece of sandpaper or similar to prevent the knives slipping out.
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2nd October 2016, 07:58 PM #11
I take it you are refering toP1070822.jpg
The sectioned outlined in this photo (left of photo). That is definitely part of the cutter head.
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2nd October 2016, 07:59 PM #12
If your cutter has gib plates ... Are they installed against the flat side (NOT bevel side ) ?
Glenn Visca
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3rd October 2016, 10:41 AM #13
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3rd October 2016, 01:52 PM #14GOLD MEMBER
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If the blades are fully inserted into the cutter block slots and still stick out too far then the blades are the wrong width for that particular machine.
Since the blades are manufactured in standard widths I suggest that you try to buy a set of narrower blades to fit your machine, ones that will insert into the block untill they are close to the chipbreaker groove. Machines of this type rely on the blades being ground in sets of identical width and the width being the height setting.
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3rd October 2016, 04:41 PM #15
I'm now almost certain the blades do not stick out too far. I have no way of measuring but it seems less than 1mm and probably close to half mm. The blades have small amounts of the same blue paint as the body of the machine on them which leads me to believe they are originals.
I've spent an hour or so cleaning the slots with steel wool and 800 grit paper. The edge of the cutter block that the blades rest on seemed a little ordinary so i've dressed that as well with 800 grit to clean it up a little.
I also did a little dressing of the blades with a stainless steel sharpener followed by 800 grit to remove any burrs.
After reinstalling there doesn't seem to be any tear out on pine or on a stick of ironbark I tested but still tears out on that piece of redgum. I've reduced the amount i'm taking off.
All in all I feel its better but not as good as i hoped
I'm still inclined to suspect the sharpness of the blades. If anyone has a recommendation for a sharpening service in Melbourne or surrounds I'd appreciate it.
Thanks for all the replys and suggestions thus far.