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19th September 2013, 06:57 PM #1Senior Member
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- Aug 2013
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- melb
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- 136
How does Wipe on Poly compare to Can & Brush?
Here is where I'm at with clear on veneer & pine.
I tried the Cabot's spray on poly from bunnings & found it's terrible.
Brush & can after 2-3 coats. With very clean brush, consistent brushing & covering the wood up with plastic to keep any small dust off & the finish is pretty good. A thick spoilt glazey some what mirror finish.
I would like to try the wipe on Poly, but I suspect no matter how many coats it will be thin & smooth only, showing the wood more then a gloss clear.
Is this the case when compared to brush & can? Or would I just need like 10 coats of wipe on to achieve this look?
thanks.
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19th September 2013, 08:45 PM #2
Hi Tegmark,
With Wipe On Poly, you have a choice of satin or gloss. If you use gloss, that's what you'll get (see below), but the satin gives a pleasant finish and should only need about 4 coats to give a great result. (Fine sanding between the first three coats. Use a rag rather than a brush.
Pic 1 and 2 WOP Gloss 3 coats.
Pic 3 and 4 WOP Satin 3 coats.
Regards,
Rob
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19th September 2013, 08:46 PM #3
It depends on how many coats, and the look you want to achieve.
I made a desk out of New Guinea Rosewood about 8 years ago which I finished with 4 coats of wipe on poly. I chose satin because I don't like a shiny plastic finish on timber. After 4 coats there was still enough texture to remind me this was timber, not some sort of laminate.
If you want smooth as glass, you can probably achieve it with wipe on poly, but there are easier ways. If you want the timber to retain some of it's character, WOP is a relatively easy method which gives excellent results. YMMV.
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20th September 2013, 01:44 PM #4
I am now using WOP as my standard finish and I am very happy with the look of it. The best way I can think to describe it is that "other' clear finishes look at best like the timber has been sealed inside a tight fitting plastic bag and, at worst, looks like laminex. wheras WOP looks like shiney real timber.
One thing that I have learnt is that (say) 3 coats of gloss WOP followed by a final satin coat gives a different and clearer finish than 4 coats of satin.
I am also a lazy and reluctant finisher so I really appreciate the speed that WOP can be applied to a large and complex piece!
flettya rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
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26th September 2013, 11:55 AM #5Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
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- 71
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- 0
Seems an increasing number of turners are going with WOP. The water-based version is easy to live with.
Cheers, Ern
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26th September 2013, 05:20 PM #6
I've just had my first try with the water based product on a dining table and I'm very impressed. Dries to the touch quickly, so very little trouble with runs. Virtually no smell (important for me because my current workshop is a garage attached to the house and my wife suffers from asthma).
Yes it's dearer than the solvent based product, but given the advantages listed above, worth every penny.
BTW I only discovered the water based version is available in Oz because of Ern's review in AWR 80, so many thanks for that.
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26th September 2013, 06:34 PM #7Hewer of wood
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- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
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- 71
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- 0
My pleasure switt.
Cheers, Ern
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2nd October 2013, 10:51 PM #8Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2013
- Location
- melb
- Posts
- 136
Thanks guys, Those are nice photos of WOP gloss.
Anyway, I'm happy with 5 coats of brush on sanding in between with 2000grit. Gorgeous with some small air bubbles.
Just not sure about eee Ultra Shine. Some say it gives a more satin finish.
So in seeking maximum gloss. my question is, after sanding 2000grit final coat, should I skip the eee Ultra Shine & just use the shellawax cream?
Or is the ultra shine needed for high gloss with the shellawax?
Thanks.
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