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Thread: Finishing exposed plywood edges
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18th May 2012, 09:30 AM #1New Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
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- Noosa Heads
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Finishing exposed plywood edges
Hello,
I am wanting to create some cabinets out of Hoop Pine Plywood and leave the plywood edges exposed. I am wondering what is the best product to finish the edges with to give them a smooth finish leaving the veneers highlighted as a feature.
I have read articles etc. where a 'non toxic natural wax' has been used to seal the edges, which gives a result I like the look of. I am just not sure what type of wax and what the process involves.
I've attached a few example photos to show what I mean.
Thanks for the help!
Rory
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20th May 2012, 02:57 PM #2Anthro
- Join Date
- Sep 2007
- Location
- Buderim, Qld
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- 6
I have made a couple of pieces of furniture where the plywood edges are exposed as a feature. I used the same finish as for the other surfaces - Minwax wipe on poly, obtainable at Bunnings. I did not use any sealer first.
Ron
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20th May 2012, 04:00 PM #3
Are ya looking for a result that will last or are you looking for a result that will give you a warm fuzzy feeling?
Very few of the " natural, non toxic" products will give you a durable and long term finish.
The edge of plywood is particulary vunerable and requires significant consolidation and protection to be durable.
Also, the softer, pine plywoods it takes "a bit of work", and "quite some care" to get a good presentable edge. Often the ply does not cut super cleanly, with the grain torn and crushed, and it the worst case edge splintered and chipped.
There is also quite some open space in plywood edge grain that needs filling.
In short you need something that will work well as a filler, binder and consolidator. Wax may be quick and easy and it will fill the holes but it will not bind and consolidate the edge.
I have worked quite a lot with ply and used a number of things.
I gather you arelooking for a clear finish.
By far the best is marine epoxy, it will consolidate the edge exceedingly well, but its expensive and unless you are using it as a base finish all over the piece as we would in boat building it will complicate finishing.
Using whatever sanding sealer is compatable with the finish product you are using is probably the best option.
I have used estipol sanding sealer extensivly under polyeurathane top coats and it works well.
If ya realy want a good durable and presentable edge you are best treating the edge at every stage, even to the point of sealing any non gluing surfaces of the ply prior to cutting.
Running a coat or two of sealer and sanding a whole sheet before cutting will consolidate the surface and make your cuts a hell of a lot sharper with a lot less chipping on the crossgrain cuts.
sealing the exposed edges and sanding both the edges and adjacent faces at every oportunity in the process will help....even if you are cutting sanding or routing 1/2 to 1mm off an edge..sealing that edge first will improve the edge quality, cutting a consolidated edge give a far crisper result.
Particularly if you are doing any rounding or chamfering with a router.
Once the part is complete, seal, seal and seal again untill the edge grain is completly choked out....and don't move onto topcoat finishes till the edge is ready..I will often do two passes at the edge for every pass at the face.
Run the edges, work the face then another pass at the edges.
You can get a very good presentation of raw ply edges, but it needs work to get it there.
If you are looking at a non toxic finish..shelac is about as close as you will get, but it lacks the solids that are in the sanding sealers and this the filling capacity.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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