blueboard without textured finish

[emptybucketman]

Hi folks,

I plan to use blueboard/harditex to externally clad my back shed because of its durability/strength (7.5mm thick). I don't want a textured finish and was wondering what are my options concerning only jointing and painting. Is this ever done or are textured finishes always the go?

[Dirty Doogie]

Yes that will work so long as the wall is not in a prominent position. You will need to fill the join very smoothly though. Harditex sheet is only 7.5 mm thick in the centre area of the sheet. Apart from the recessed edge it also has a slight tapering thickness from about another 75mm past the recess edge (for finsh coating).

[emptybucketman]

Thanks Doog.

I'm having second thoughts about not using a textured finish. Any recommendations on a easy textured coating paint/systems?

[addo]

Looped (texture) roller and Emerclad? You'll still need to set the joins, though - just not so fussy as with regular paint.

How many lineal metres of join?

Cheers, Adam.

[Dirty Doogie]

The roll on texture system I have been using is one by a company called ROCKOTE. Frankly I find the system a bit tiresome but it achieves excellent results with lasting durability. It may not be readily available in Sydney.

I think most roll on texture systems are very similiar - the main urksome part is getting the joints smooth.

A trowel on rendering system is easier in this respect becuase you can actually top the join and even large dents with the render mix. You dont have to be as fussy with your jiont finish. Again I only have recent experience with the Rockote range.

Sorry I can't be of more assistance - CSR and Dulux also make roll on texture systms but I havent investigated these yet.

Doog

[emptybucketman]

Thanks Guys,

Adam, I have about 12 L/M of joints. What do I need to set the joints with?

[addo]

I set a small gap between the boards, and Sika that up same day as install. Next day I lay on the first coat of whatever flexible interior/exterior gapfiller is priced right -Nordsjo, Polyfilla etc. You want to keep this up to 3mm thick (no more, as it will shrink a little and too thick will crack).

Second coat (24H later) is usually the last; it takes some practice but if you can find the best fit between inevitable offsets in boards approaching the join, sanding will be pretty quick. I like a concretor's pointed float, but some people favour an American style broadknife.

Rub it out with one of those hard sanding floats using P80 No-Fil. You'll scuff up the blueing a little, but because of the different coating method this isn't a concern.

Regards, Adam.