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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
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    74
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    Default how to remove tru-oil

    i have started in on a project with tru-oil and after about 7 light coats dont like it that much and aint really going to fit with this project - it kind of builds like lacquer and gathers in corners and recesses in a gunky pool that goes hard - the recomended application is with the figers

    not really sure what will remove it - it is a linseed ol base afaik
    it is commonly used on gunstocks

    is it possible to get it it all off completely so i can redo with danish??
    if so what can i use??
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Queensland
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    613

    Default

    G'day OP,

    Depending on how big the project is and I guess, how desperate you are I would start with the most benign [most gentle] and work up to the most severe. I believe that Tru-oil is a linseed oil and tung oil mix - what else if anything I'm not aware of. I gather from your comments that sanding off completely is not a viable option.

    Depending on what you have available, turps, metho, shellite, thinners, paint stripper [with its own set of neutralising and bleaching problems although perhaps "Citristrip" could be an answer as it is claimed to be non caustic], MEK, acetone, mixture of MEK and acetone [priming fluid for PVC pipe connections]. Not sure of any of the effects it may have on your timber and you will also need to take all of the usual precautions re the toxicity of the solvents.

    Not sure if this helps but it may give you some ideas, regards,
    Bob

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Default

    thanks bob
    acetone tool it roght off - bit of rub and scrub with a course cloth and toothbrush - its all gone

    my appraisal of this stuff as a finish ?
    may as well shoot lacquer
    applying by fingers leaves a fairly ametuerish gloss
    if you want proper gloss i am sure you will get it if you apply enough, level sand and buff
    may as well use a proper lacquer
    if you want satin sheen there are easier ways to achieve that
    after application you have to knock back the shine off tru-oil
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Queensland
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    613

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    Glad to hear you had a win.

    How about some pix of what you are building.

    Regards,
    Bob

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
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    Default

    i will post some iof the finished
    nothing out of the ordinary
    blackguard tele
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Blue Mountains
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    Default

    Thats a bit strange Ray, Ive used it a lot with a damp rag of Tru oil and it works really well. Sounds like you were applying a bit too much. Pete Howlett has just put up a vid on the ANZLF on part of his process and he uses a damp rag as well. Its more like shellac than laquer in that respect.
    "We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer

    My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Melbourne Outer East right next to mount dande
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    Default

    i will certainly check that out - i know a lot of people like tru-oil - it didn't work for me on this all maple neck - got to admit i just got stuck into it without really road testing it first - my bad-

    it came off very clean with acetone which is a big + for tru-oil

    i redid in cabots danish and it has come up a treat as it usually does
    ray c
    dunno what's more fun, buyin' the tools or usin' em'

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