Rifle stock restoration

[beeskuiken]

Yes, I know, another thread on rifle stocks! (I did read the others)

I'm restoring a Savage 250-3000 from the 1930's (I think). Metalwork is done - now the woodwork.

Can anybody recommend some articles or books that will help me with this? In particular with:

# Stripping old gunky varnish. How and what to use so I don't damage the wood. (other than sanding)

# Checkering - do's and don'ts. Currently in good condition, but I need to strip oil/varnish.

# What other 'classic' finishes are available if I don't go the Tru-Oil route? (Another poster mentioned that Tru-Oil is actually not a true oil, but rather a poly-something with linseed oil?)

Thanks
Philip

[toolbagsPLUS]

Mentholated spirits or DAA and steel wool should do the job of cleaning. Start at #2 finish with 0000

Depending on how true you wish to restore it should denote the finish you use I would think.

Cheers


Steve

[Claw Hama]

Tool bagshas the goods on cleaning up. If it was rifle stock, after all the finishes I have used over the years I would go a Sam Maloof Danish Oil. I mix my own 30% Estapol/ polyurethane, 30% Tung oil (I use one with driers already in it) and 30% Boiled Linseed. Fast fool proof and very effective. I have been using it outdoors with huge success also. Put a coat on leave it for 15min and rub off, leave it for a day and do it again, two to three coats should be heaps. I have used an old tooth brush with metho to clean my checkering previously. Good luck

[Bob38S]

Avoid sanding the checkered areas as you will flatten the points if it is cut checkering - pressed checkering usually has softer points - stick with the toothbrush idea and avoid sanding checkering as much as possible. If the checkering is poor it may pay to recut it but not really recommended unless you really know what you are doing and have the correct tools.

When sanding - be very careful where there are square edges eg buttplate - if care is not taken in these areas the job will end up looking very ordinary indeed.

[beeskuiken]

Thanks for the replies. I have heard of ‘Danish Oil’ before. Will see if I can get some info on that. I'm after a satin finish - not to glossy. I will do the stripping with the toothbrush on the checkering and see what it looks like afterwards. If it’s not good, I’ll ask for some more advice on cutting checkering . Would still like to get hold of a book with some step by step pointers…?

This will be a long term project, so you might hear from me again much later…

Cheers
Philip

[sawtooth]

I will leave the stripping to those who would better then myself; but years ago in my mad gun days I used linseed oil on gun stocks. The oil was rubbed in with the hand palm and it left a soft glow finish. But it's a lot of rubbing.

You may already know this: to get the best sanded finish; sand with very very fine sand paper (with the grain) and wipe the stock with a damp rag to raise the grain; sand again; wipe with damp rag; and do it again and again until the finish is the same after the damp wipe; now you can start with the linseed oil.

Checking: don't sand the checking anymore then you have to. You can buy hand checking tools or make one from a small triangle file. You need to bend it.

Sorry; i have been out of the guns for too long to know any books but mr google would know

The savage 25 was a great and under rated fire arm.

[eskimo]

I did an old lithgow some years ago

I used poly mixed with thinners......put it on like one would french polish a table...
but it was hard to get it just right...too much work and thinners would bite real quick...took a while to master it..but when I did ..came up fabulous.
.

[beeskuiken]

Attached are some before and after pics.
The chequering was in good condition, so I did not need to re-cut.
I used Rustins Strypit and Rustins Danish oil. Lots of coats. Never managed to get all the gun oil out of the wood, but wrote it off to 'character'.

Thanks for all the advice.

Philip

[Bob38S]

Nice job Philip.

Personally I prefer the darker shades of timber but you have done a nice job of restoration - it should age gracefully and give you lots of satisfaction when you look/use it.

[eskimo]

Nice job Philip.

Personally I prefer the darker shades of timber but you have done a nice job of restoration - it should age gracefully and give you lots of satisfaction when you look/use it.

he's got a lovely bit of wood tho...I prefer the resto to the dark

[Bob38S]

It certainly is - I especially like the figure in the stock.

[China]

Nice job Philip, looks like a pretty good job on the metal work as well, adds up up to top resto

[AlexS]

Lovely result. What was the timber, do you know?

[hybridfiat]

Lignum Vitae maybe?

As to books if you are doing this again get the first 3 books in the series Brownell's "Gunsmith Kinks" (google Brownells gunsmith supplies). They are worth their weight in gold for the aspiring gunsmith. Plus they make entertaining reading.