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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Bundoora Vic.
    Posts
    2

    Default Restoring blistered veneer

    I have a Vienna longcase clock circa 1900 with a nice veneered back on the case.
    It is joined along the centre in what I believe is called Fiddleback.
    There are a couple of places where the veneer appears blistered.
    Also there is some damage to the finish caused by the pendulum over the years.
    I am reasonably handy, but wondering whether this is a simple fix or better left to an expert.
    Appreciate any advice, particularly on the blister repair.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
    Posts
    1,188

    Default

    If you have no experience with restoration, veneer in particular, and this is a valuable piece for either monetary or sentimental reasons, take it to a professional.

    Ring some antique stores and see if they can recommend someone. I would try the expensive antique stores first. They are more likely to sell the types of items that are worth spending the money on.

    The other alternative is to live with it and consider it patina.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Bundoora Vic.
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Thanks Mark,
    I am quite happy to live with it as long as it does not get worse in the short term.
    It came down from Queensland, and the climate here may be better for it from a humidity standpoint.
    Again, Thanks.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    0

    Default

    According to John FitzMaurice Mills, Look after your Antiques, Ebury Press 1980, written with the specific purpose '...to help owners... in the recognition as when their possessions need treatment... and whether to call in the trained hand or... can be safely carried out by themselves':

    "If these bubbles are reasonably small they are best treated as follows: make an incision lengthways with a fine pointed scalpel blade; gently ease the cut open a little way, and with a small brush insert fresh glue...(PVA) let the cut close, cover with a piece of greased paper and place a flat-iron on top; leave for 24 hours.
    ....
    Where there is evidence of almost wholesale detachment, leave it to the skilled hand." (page 41)

    There is further advice in this and other books I have, feel free to ask if you are going ahead with it.

    Cheers
    Frank

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
    Posts
    1,188

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest View Post
    "If these bubbles are reasonably small they are best treated as follows: make an incision lengthways with a fine pointed scalpel blade; gently ease the cut open a little way, and with a small brush insert fresh glue...(PVA) let the cut close, cover with a piece of greased paper and place a flat-iron on top; leave for 24 hours.
    I would not use PVA glue at all. The original adhesive would almost certainly have been hide glue. You can use ready made hide glue (i.e. not hot hide glue) like Titebond Liquid Hide Glue as this has the reversibility properties. There is an agent added to keep it liquid at room temperature but once it has set, you can reverse it the same way as regular hide glue.

    Quote Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest View Post
    Where there is evidence of almost wholesale detachment, leave it to the skilled hand." (page 41)
    I couldn't agree more.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by markharrison View Post
    I would not use PVA glue at all. The original adhesive would almost certainly have been hide glue. You can use ready made hide glue (i.e. not hot hide glue) like Titebond Liquid Hide Glue as this has the reversibility properties. There is an agent added to keep it liquid at room temperature but once it has set, you can reverse it the same way as regular hide glue.
    Yes, this is what the author recommends, but suggests that PVA is acceptable if it is too difficult to find hide or hoof glue. Apologies for my editing, I did offer to expand if required....

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    74
    Posts
    10,438

    Default

    It should be possible to repair it with water and heat which will re rebond the veneer with the original glue but this is best left to an expert. Especially as the clock probably has some value. The same with the damage from the pendulum. The clock has obviously been set on the wrong angle for there to be damage from this, as there should be plenty of clearance between the pendulum and the back of the case.

    Make sure the clock isn't leaning back in it's new home. Many clocks, dressers, etc lean back because the edge of a room slopes away in an older house or the carpet drops a little towards the wall, etc.

    Cheers - Neil

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