French Polish - Again!

[Asquared]

I asked this question at the end of another dialog but didn't get any responses. Thought I'd try again!

I've read the Polisher's Bible (Handbook) and tried some of that poorman's french polishing (shellac and wax)with very satisfactory results and I've even done what I feel is something akin to true Fr. polishing by rubbing with shellac on a cloth till I get a good looking finish. All the instruction books talk about not stopping the rubber on the surface and seem to generally describe polishing a flat surface like a table top.

What about inside corners, edges and rebates, raised panels and carved or irregular surfaces? i.e anything but simple flat surfaces. Most antiques have loads of these. How do you get into nooks and crannies and still get a smooth polished finish without runs, lumps and uneven coverage?

This never seems to be described in the polishing instruction books.



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Andrew Armstrong

[ubeaut]

G'day Andrew

Looks like every one wants to leave this one alone.

French Polishing is only done on flat surfaces. Shellac application basically applies to all other surfaces.

For restoration: If possible, remove all mouldings etc. prior to polishing.

For new work: Polish before assembly.

If mouldings etc. are not removable then closely follow the guide in your book on making a rubber and make sure you get a point at the front. The finer and sharper the point the better the coverage of these moulded and hard to get at surfaces will be.

The purchase of a really good polishers mop or two (preferably camel hair) will also help as these can be used to apply even smooth coat of shellac to all uneven surfaces, carved panels, turnings, etc., etc.

Once a few even brush coats have been applied and allowed to dry hard the mouldings etc can be smoothed out by rubbing with 0000 steel wool (careful not to rub too heavy and go through the polish). These surfaces can then be rubbed up with the rubber in the normal course of polishing the rest of the piece. This will mostly hit the highlights and give them a brighter finish making them really look great. In most instances with mouldings etc. don't try to rub with circles but go in straight runs following the shape of the moulding. The point of the rubber should fit into most moulded sections.

Don't try to polish carvings. Apply shellac with a brush being careful not to fill in the details with too much polish. Keep a drinking straw with you whilst doing this and and when bubbles appear on the work blow on them through the straw to break them up and leave a smooth surface.

Many moulded sections can be brush coated, rubbed with steel wool then waxed (with a really good wax) and that is all that is needed.

Most vertical surfaces do not need the full blown polish job done on them. It is the flat horizontal ones that need the work done as they are the ones that are seen and take all the wear and tear.

Hope this helps a bit. By the way NEVER EVER stop the rubber on the surface of the work.

Cheers - Neil


[This message has been edited by ubeaut (edited 09 December 2000).]

[S Hayward]

A warning.
Remember to blow, not suck, when using the straw!! Unless you are usuing straight metho.
Cheers
Shaun

[Shane Watson]

I have started to reply to this thread a few time now.... Well this time I will finish!!

What Neil said!

although I will add that making real small rubbers helps as well. They can be a bit hard to handle, but once your use to them, its the same old story, practice.. I once saw a guy using a rubber that was about as big as your thumbnail for tight spots like moulding and carvings etc...

Anyway, can't add anymore to Neils...

Cheers...



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Shane Watson..

Combine Love & Skill & You Can Expect A Masterpiece!

[Asquared]

Thanks Guys. Knew I'd get some wisdom from the gurus.

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Andrew Armstrong