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Thread: Best finish for Myrtle
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13th April 2009, 01:29 PM #1Novice
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Best finish for Myrtle
Hey all, i'm new to finishing, want to know if anyone has experience in finishing Southern Myrtle and Tasmanian Musk Myrtle? also who can point out what's best to use, i want an awesome finish
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13th April 2009, 02:08 PM #2
Hi kandiman
Depends on what you are using it for?
Some give a great finish but don't wear to well others wear well but maybe not a deep a finish.
Let us know the purpose and you'll get a more accurate response.
Cheers
SteveDiscover your Passion and Patience follows.
www.fineboxes.com.au
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13th April 2009, 02:11 PM #3Novice
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thanks for the reply, below is my other thread, it's for video gaming so it will be used indoors, want to make the finish look awesome =D
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=93650
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25th April 2009, 10:06 PM #4Novice
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sorry for double post, anyone point me to some products that i can buy for a good finish on the myrtle?
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25th April 2009, 11:36 PM #5Senior Member
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Hi Kandiman
I'm currently finishing off a benchtop of tassie myrtle
i've completed a couple of coats of a Sam Maloof finishing
technique, see this thread
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=90902
It's looking good so far, and i wish had known of it years ago
but thats what makes this forum such a treasure trove of info
check it out
Regards
Col.
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26th April 2009, 01:50 PM #6Novice
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thanks for the reply, read through the sam maloof sounds good, do i have to buy all the ingredients and mix it all up? or do they sell the recipe mixed already?
can everything be bought in bunnings?
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26th April 2009, 04:23 PM #7Senior Member
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I got some boiled linseed, and poly at Bunnings had to go
elsewhere for the tung oil but apparently they usually sell it,
You have to mix it yourself the best i found was to use a glass
measuring jug as you can just wipe it clean with a little turps
or just leave the mix in there and cover with glad wrap till you're
finished.
Happy Finishing
would like to see the finished item
Col.
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26th April 2009, 05:23 PM #8Novice
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when you say boiled linseed you don't physically boil the oil right?
the wood that i will be using is not big 50x295 and 50x190 with 10mm thickness, what grit sandpaper should i use?
i should sand and then apply the sam maloof recipe?
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26th April 2009, 08:04 PM #9Senior Member
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You can buy linseed in raw or boiled form, if you only doing
a one off in such a small amount it might be worth looking at
some of the other options available off the shelf. Such as wipe
on poly's or timberfinishing waxes. it'll save you a few dollars.
Sand to fine grit (400) work your way down from 240 if the surface
is already reasonably smooth, use a sanding block for the best results.
The key to applying this finish is a smooth sanded finish, wipe on the
mix then wipe off the excess, let it cure 1 - 2 days then repeat, lets say
4 times you'll see for yourself how it emphasises beautiful timber, the myrtle will look magic. There's no sanding in between coats, because when rubbing off the excess you're removing any grit, dust etc.
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27th April 2009, 03:46 AM #10Novice
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so i should start off with 400grit sandpaper and then to 240grit?
also there will be nail holes should i putty those up? or is it safe to leave them as they are?
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