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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    melbourne
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    Default honing jig projection distance for 13 degree

    whats the projection distance in mm if i want to get 13 degrees? that is from the front of the jig to the cutting edge of the blade.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Sydney
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    I'll have a go.

    It depends on the height of your honing jig.

    So measure the height of your jig perpendicular to the blade mounting surface and then divide that by Tan 13 degrees ( =0.231 ) to get your total blade projection from the point on the jig at which the height was measured.

    To get the blade projection from the front of the jig, you'll have to minus off the distance from the measurement point to the front of your jig.

    Makes perfect sense to me but not sure if I've explained it too well.

    Maybe a diagram will help.

  3. #3
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    Oct 2010
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    melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevemc32 View Post
    I'll have a go.

    It depends on the height of your honing jig.

    So measure the height of your jig perpendicular to the blade mounting surface and then divide that by Tan 13 degrees ( =0.231 ) to get your total blade projection from the point on the jig at which the height was measured.

    To get the blade projection from the front of the jig, you'll have to minus off the distance from the measurement point to the front of your jig.

    Makes perfect sense to me but not sure if I've explained it too well.

    Maybe a diagram will help.
    please draw pic

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Mainland N.Z.
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    723

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    Cheat.

    Take a new one (if available) of whatever it is that you're sharpening and rest the bevel on the grinding wheel and adjust the jig to suit.

    I have a brand new never used Stanley plane blade for this purpose when doing that type of blade.

    What are you grinding/sharpening?
    We don't know how lucky we are......

  5. #5
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    Oct 2010
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    melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanz View Post
    Cheat.

    Take a new one (if available) of whatever it is that you're sharpening and rest the bevel on the grinding wheel and adjust the jig to suit.

    I have a brand new never used Stanley plane blade for this purpose when doing that type of blade.

    What are you grinding/sharpening?
    im sharpening a stanley 60 1/2 low angle block plane blade

  6. #6
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    Oct 2008
    Location
    Sydney
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    Ok.

    Measure the distance in Red and divide it by 0.231 to get the calculated distance. Then take off the distance from the top of the Red line to the front of your jig for the projection distance.

    Attachment 154316

    There is a bit of inaccuracy introduced when you tilt the jig over to 13 degrees which is dependent on the radius of your honing jig wheel but I suspect it really won't affect your result noticably.

    Hope this helps.

  7. #7
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    Oct 2008
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    Sydney
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    Cheating sounds good if that option is available, otherwise just line it up with a protractor if you can find one.

    I don't know how long a 60 1/2 blade is but the calculations indicate that it will need to project about 130mm if your jig is 30mm tall. Might be a stretch for it.

  8. #8
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    Oct 2010
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    melbourne
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    ye that helped, thx

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    Just curious why you want such a shallow bevel angle - 25° is standard for that blade; bedded at 12° bevel up gives a 37° cutting angle. This works fine even for end grain paring.

    I would have thought any cutting edge with a 13° bevel wouldn't be very durable?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevemc32 View Post
    Ok.

    Measure the distance in Red and divide it by 0.231 to get the calculated distance. Then take off the distance from the top of the Red line to the front of your jig for the projection distance.

    Attachment 154316

    There is a bit of inaccuracy introduced when you tilt the jig over to 13 degrees which is dependent on the radius of your honing jig wheel but I suspect it really won't affect your result noticably.

    Hope this helps.
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Brush View Post
    Just curious why you want such a shallow bevel angle - 25° is standard for that blade; bedded at 12° bevel up gives a 37° cutting angle. This works fine even for end grain paring.

    I would have thought any cutting edge with a 13° bevel wouldn't be very durable?
    now that u mentioned it, the shallower the angle the less metal particle there is therefore its alot less durable. So yes i think ur right.

  11. #11
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    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    Plus you'll have to remove an awful lot of metal to get from 25° down to 13° !

    Seriously, I've never heard of a plane iron being sharpened at such a shallow angle. Hardwood end grain will wreck such a fine cutting edge in no time.

  12. #12
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    Oct 2010
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    melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Brush View Post
    Plus you'll have to remove an awful lot of metal to get from 25° down to 13° !

    Seriously, I've never heard of a plane iron being sharpened at such a shallow angle. Hardwood end grain will wreck such a fine cutting edge in no time.
    ye that is alot of metal and ill b like when i c how short my blade become. To my knowledge, hardwood requires a steeper angle bcuz it wants that engagement from the blade, softwood not as much. I think my current secondary bevel angle is close to being aight.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Deneb will show you how to do this here: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzeAsX-09o4&feature=related]YouTube - Sharpening Part 1: Plane Irons[/ame]

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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