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Thread: Waterproofing + drains
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5th April 2008, 07:46 PM #1
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Waterproofing + drains
Hey guys,
I have just finished waterproofing my new shower using morgans 2pack waterproofing membrane.
I followed the manufacturers instructions on folding the membrane into the floor waste like this diagram
And all is good, now my issue is my drop in waste drain wont "drop in" as now the waterproofing has made for a tight fit, a very tight fit, tight enough that i dont think it will allow water to drain from the membrane if anything got through the tiles.
My question is how should I go about installing the drain?, should i just push it in and let it sit tight as and hope water will flow past, or should i cut some grooves into the drain so that water can channel down the sides and into the pipe?
Thanks!
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6th April 2008, 08:48 AM #2
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Usually you would waterproof the sub-floor and then lay a bed of sand and cement over it, and this is where the grate normally goes in when the tilings done.
Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter
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6th April 2008, 09:30 AM #3
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Are you just trying to fit the grate in to the pipe, or have you used a puddle flange or a leak control flange?
Tools
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6th April 2008, 11:16 AM #4
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Just trying to fit it into the pipe...
Laying a morter bed over the top of the waterproofing is an option if no other solutions will suffice.
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6th April 2008, 11:24 AM #5Just trying to fit it into the pipe...
Then you can place the drain fitting in the pipe.
Place a good bead of appropriate silicon around the edge of the pipe to stop ingress between the pipe and the waterproofing.c2=a2+b2;
When buildings made with lime are subjected to small movements thay are more likely to develop many fine cracks than the individual large cracks which occur in stiffer cement-bound buildings. Water penetration can dissolve the 'free' lime and transport it. As the water evaporates, this lime is deposited and begins to heal the cracks. This process is called autogenous healing.
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6th April 2008, 12:11 PM #6
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7th April 2008, 06:23 AM #7
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That would then defeat the whole waterproofing exercize......
Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter
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7th April 2008, 11:40 AM #8That would then defeat the whole waterproofing exercize.
Personally I think the waterproofing agent should go off the floor up the outside of the pipe.
Explain to me how she will get the drain fitting in the pipe with it bogged up with waterproofing agent?c2=a2+b2;
When buildings made with lime are subjected to small movements thay are more likely to develop many fine cracks than the individual large cracks which occur in stiffer cement-bound buildings. Water penetration can dissolve the 'free' lime and transport it. As the water evaporates, this lime is deposited and begins to heal the cracks. This process is called autogenous healing.
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7th April 2008, 12:33 PM #9
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*he
I am using a 2pack membrane (latex based i think) not fibreglass. It is a bit of a tricky one, its a very important part of the waterproofing so i am a bit hesitant to remove the membrane completely around the drain, I might remove it and have another shot at the drain, trying to keep the application thinner inside the pipe to allow the drain to drop in (this might mean i need to remove the reinforcement fabric from inside the drain itself). Then follow this with a layer of sikaflex pro to be sure. how does that sound?
Cheers
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7th April 2008, 05:14 PM #10
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What I am getting at is when you water proof a bathroom, you need it to be able to drain, OK a bead of sikaflex is a good way to get around it but there will always be a niggling doubt that you have sealed the area completely, also you must make sure that the two products are compatible, check with the manufacturers.
Waterproofing should always be done down into the pipe to ensure that no water will have a chance of getting under the membrane, otherwise it may as well not be done at all.
Another point I was trying to make is that a bed of sand and cement usually goes on after the waterproofing before the tiles and the floor waste grate gets tiled in with the tiles.
If you waterproof up the sides of the pipe, where will the water go in the event of a major spillage?????
Also, you need to consider that if something fails, then your floor or wall studs etc. rot out, your insurance company is going to want to know who your water-proofer is and you will end up with a shyte fight on your hands.
BTW sikaflex is a polyurethane based product rather than silicone based.Last edited by wonderplumb; 7th April 2008 at 05:15 PM. Reason: typo
Plumbers were around long before Jesus was a carpenter
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7th April 2008, 06:45 PM #11
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The detail you have been given is terrible, and to rely on silicone is fraught with danger. You need to use a leak control or a puddle flange.
http://www.artplastics.com.au/leakControl.asp#Puddle
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7th April 2008, 07:26 PM #12
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