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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Taiwan
    Age
    55
    Posts
    2

    Default natural looking finish for oily cedar

    I did this box with hand cut dovetails and miters and would like a finish that accentuates the grain and leaves a rich natural feel to the wood. I have done some other pieces of this wood with lacquer, matt and regular, and felt that the lacquer left it looking very plastic. Because of that I sent a similar to box to my mom unfinished since the raw cedar looks better than the lacquered. Anyways, in the Box Forum here at Wood Work, one of the other posters suggested I post here and seek your collective wisdom.

    The dark streaks on the box are resins/oils leaching from the wood. Even reclaimed wood over forty years old seems moist at times from the fragrant oils in the wood. The Cedar is a Taiwanese varity known as "Hinoki."

    Any suggestions on a suitable finish?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Taiwan
    Age
    55
    Posts
    2

    Default The Pic of the Ceder Box

    .

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Taiwan
    Age
    55
    Posts
    2

    Default The Pic of the Box

    Hmm.. Can't load the pic for some reason. But if you would like to see it it is in the Box Makers forum under the title A Simple Box

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Cheltenham, Melbourne
    Age
    75
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Chris
    ========================================

    Life isn't always fair

    ....................but it's better than the alternative.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW Australia
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Here is my very secret finishing technique for you only.... all others please stop reading now.

    Apply a coat of poly or whatever, and wipe it off a few minutes after application. This will give a very smooth finnish
    repeat process when surface is dry.
    Let this second coat dry for a day.

    Make up some wax finish by heating wax on stove, and add 1/3 pure gum turpentine, when off the heat. Stir slowly, and allow to cool.
    With this nice creamy wax paste that you have just made, you can apply a thinish coat to the whole box.
    Get out your wifes hairdryer, and go over the whole item at close range. You will see the wax melting in to the grain. Wipe wax away with clean cloth. Old nappies work well.

    You can do waxing again if you like, and maintanence is easy by just waxing scratches etc.

    You will end up with a fairly robust finnish that will give you the feel and low lustre that you desire.

    Nice work by the way.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Taiwan
    Age
    55
    Posts
    2

    Default Sounds great.

    I hope I can manage to find all them ingriediants over here. Not easy since all the labels are in Chinese. But I will give it a try. All I have found in my local paint store so far is different kinds of lacquer, paint, and two part epoxies. What kind of wax? Candle wax? Car wax? Bees wax?

    It sounds like it would be the nice rich finish I'm looking for.

    Cheers.

    David L.
    “When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think...that a time is to come when those (heirlooms) will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that men will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, ‘See! This our father did for us.’ “ --John Ruskin. Audels Carpenters and Builders Guide, 1923 Theo Audel & CO. New York.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Blue Mountains NSW Australia
    Posts
    0

    Default

    I have used old candles with good results.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Sounds like a job for a quality Danish Oil like Rustins - it's a mix of tung oil, resins and poly.
    Cheers, Ern

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