Help please! Stripping & restoring magnificent cedar fireplace, architraves and doors

[marionbelle]

Hello, I am looking for suggestions regarding the stripping and restoration of cedar timberwork in the bedroom of my 1850s homestead. There is a fireplace surround, 2 French doors, solid door, window, architraves and skirting boards. I have had a little experience in stripping paint from cedar in another room and finishing it with shellac. For some reason the shellac/varnish in this room is extremely crazed and thick. I am not sure why this has happened. I have started on the fireplace rubbing it back with steel wool and metho and lots of elbow grease. It is a big room so I was wondering if there are any easier methods to use, I am guessing the answer is probably no! All suggestions from the gurus of cedar and shellac gratefully accepted. Should I use a different technique/finish on say the skirting boards compared to the doors? Looking forward to your responses. Marion

[shedbound]

could it be possible that in the past someone has applied varnish/estapol? Does the metho alone dissolve the finish?

[marionbelle]

could it be possible that in the past someone has applied varnish/estapol? Does the metho alone dissolve the finish?

Hi Shedbound, I have been here for 40 years and in that time nothing has been applied to it. But possibly it could have happened in the sixties? Metho is dissolving the finish but requiring lots of effort, especially the lumpy bits.

[FenceFurniture]

Hi Marion, and welcome.

The are plenty here can advise with knowledge and experience (it would be good if wouldwood would come in) but to my far from expert eye it looks like shellac that may have been heat affected causing the craziness (or do you use other things for that? ). Especially, as you say, that metho eventually gets it moving. Certainly seen that sort of pattern on similar things of similar age.

I wonder how a gentle heat gun and paint scraper would work on the tough bits? You could try it on an inconspicuous part.

[burraboy]

I wouldn't touch it myself. You can't buy patina and character like that!

[FenceFurniture]

I wouldn't touch it myself. You can't buy patina and character like that!

Yeah, there is always that.....helluva lot less work too.....

It makes it difficult to choose when there is the promise of some lovely timber underneath.

[LGS]

Hi Marionbelle,

Welcome to the forums. I hope you get the info you need and have fun getting it. If the Metho is moving the finish, then it is most probably Shellac. Red Cedar finished with Shellac is magnificent.

I would suggest that you send a PM to Neil (our benevolent dictator) and ask for advice. He is a polisher and restorer of some note. But please be careful using things like heat to remove the mess. Cedar mars easily.

Here's a box lid finished with Tung Oil and then Shellac. It's what you can look forward to, I 'spose. Definitely worth the work.

Regards,

Rob

[marionbelle]

Yeah, there is always that.....helluva lot less work too.....

It makes it difficult to choose when there is the promise of some lovely timber underneath.

Believe me I was very tempted to leave it alone after stripping the other room which had been painted white! But like you say what you find underneath is worth it. The photos below show the fireplace and door I did up a long time ago in the other bedroom. Then the other unrestored door. I have started stripping, too late to stop now!

[marionbelle]

Hi Marionbelle,

Welcome to the forums. I hope you get the info you need and have fun getting it. If the Metho is moving the finish, then it is most probably Shellac. Red Cedar finished with Shellac is magnificent.

I would suggest that you send a PM to Neil (our benevolent dictator) and ask for advice. He is a polisher and restorer of some note. But please be careful using things like heat to remove the mess. Cedar mars easily.

Here's a box lid finished with Tung Oil and then Shellac. It's what you can look forward to, I 'spose. Definitely worth the work.

Regards,

Rob

Thanks for everyones replies. I will PM Neil as suggested. LGS do you put Tung Oil on first or the shellac? I have some old shellac does it last or should I buy some new shellac? Thank you LGS, I realise that heat guns and cedar have to be treated very carefully due to past experience.

[FenceFurniture]

Gotta love the restored door - timber wins over character in that case!

[chrrris]

Hi,
I've been going through the same process recently, though my fireplace was almost black throughout with a century of soot and furniture polish. The carvings under the mantle are also much more complicated with much deeper relief.

My process was the mask all the surroundings and then go to town with litres of methylated spirits, brushes, scourers, steel wool and paper towels. The meths may take some time to soften the lumps, as you've found. I found that once the finish came off the grain had been filled with plaster of paris. I initially tried to get all this off, but found it disappeared when wet, so trusted that when I re-applied an new finish it would not be seen.

I found that it was important to soak up any excess meths with the paper towels before it dried or it would leave ugly streaking.

I've just applied a coat of BLO in preparation for a good shellacing and it looks great (if darker than the raw wood).

Regards,
Chris.

[LGS]

Hi Marion,

I put the Tung Oil on first, wipe it off after about 15 minutes, then give the Cedar some time (a week?) to dry. Then a light sand at about 400-600 grit and wipe down the work piece. You can then apply the shellac. My advice would be to throw the old Shellac and buy a new bottle.

Regards,

Rob

[marionbelle]

Hi,
I've been going through the same process recently, though my fireplace was almost black throughout with a century of soot and furniture polish. The carvings under the mantle are also much more complicated with much deeper relief.

My process was the mask all the surroundings and then go to town with litres of methylated spirits, brushes, scourers, steel wool and paper towels. The meths may take some time to soften the lumps, as you've found. I found that once the finish came off the grain had been filled with plaster of paris. I initially tried to get all this off, but found it disappeared when wet, so trusted that when I re-applied an new finish it would not be seen.

I found that it was important to soak up any excess meths with the paper towels before it dried or it would leave ugly streaking.

I've just applied a coat of BLO in preparation for a good shellacing and it looks great (if darker than the raw wood).

Regards,
Chris.

Hi Chris, Sorry I am not up on wood finishing terms, what is BLO ?

[Christos]

Hi Chris, Sorry I am not up on wood finishing terms, what is BLO ?

Boiled Linseed Oil

[chrrris]

Boiled Linseed Oil

Sorry, .

Cheers,
Chris.