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Thread: Mechanical EEE application?
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2nd August 2009, 04:10 PM #1
Mechanical EEE application?
After applying EEE followed by a coat of trad wax, my arm is tired.
Noticed a video on the FWW site where a dude used a polisher (looks like a drill with a buffing attachment to me) to apply auto polish to a piece of furniture.
Got me wondering if you could do something similar with EEE. Does anyone have any experience using anything but elbow grease for this?
Thanks,
Tex
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2nd August 2009, 04:27 PM #2Hewer of wood
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AFAIK EEE is intended for turners for whom the lathe does most of the work.
Is the buff you've seen like the Swansdown mop that Ubeaut sells?
Might work. I've only used it for polishing out. Send Neil an email?
Edit: under our noses; should work ... http://www.ubeaut.com.au/sdmops.htmCheers, Ern
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2nd August 2009, 05:03 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Used a polisher/buffer with lambswool pad for EEE and it works a treat.
.
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2nd August 2009, 07:08 PM #4
Yeah, EEE on a buffer works well.
For applying Shellawax this way, you want the paste (comes in a tub like EEE) and not the cream in a bottle.
I found that lambswool doesn't seem to work well for Shellawax, tending to leave a "ridged" finish that takes more effort to flatten, but the felt pads work beautifully.
The pad'll be useless for anything else afterwards, but it takes a while before the pad's conditioned properly anyway (it sorta goes crusty, which really increases the friction & brings up the polish nicely) so just reserve that pad for Shellawax & save yourself some effort.
- Andy Mc
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2nd August 2009, 09:17 PM #5
I use EEE and ubeaut swansdown mop in the drill, works well, not hard work.
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2nd August 2009, 11:10 PM #6
works a beautifully and gave beautiful results.
(just a note:
1. when applying EEE in a confined space with a cabinet already in place in a small room, remember the phone cord you saw and remember that you thought two seconds ago to move it before using the drill with s/mop to apply EEE. Forget and then you remember why you thought to move the cord when the drill gets caught and tangles you and the drill in a phone cord.
2. curse and swear at your Hommer moment.
3. refer to 1. and repeat Hommer moment for a second time. This time you busted yourself even more and rip the phone cord and socket out of the wall. )
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3rd August 2009, 07:23 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
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What Cruzi, Ben & Waldo said.
I have used it on furniture finished with Minwax Wipe-on Poly and also Ubeaut Hard Shellac.
Rubbed on by hand and polished off with Swansdown mop in drillTom
"It's good enough" is low aim
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3rd August 2009, 11:17 AM #8
That's what I do too.
In fact I have two swansdown mops each with a 6mm gutter bold through the centre for use in a drill - I use one with Trad Wax and the other with EEE. When the EEE one gets unuseable, I get a new one for Trad Wax and use the old Trad Wax one for EEE.
How do I know which is which? I keep them in separate labelled plastic containers (the medium salad one from the takeaway works really well!). That also keeps them from going hard and crumbly.Cheers
Jeremy
If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly
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3rd August 2009, 11:45 AM #9
Thanks guys. Guess it's time to buy a second swansdown mop ....
So am I right that you:
- rub it on vigorously with a rag in the normal fashion
- remove with swansdown mop
Or do you:
- smear it on lightly
- let the mop do the polishing
- wipe off with clean cloth
??
Thanks,
Tex
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3rd August 2009, 12:12 PM #10
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3rd August 2009, 01:16 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Tom
"It's good enough" is low aim
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3rd August 2009, 05:39 PM #12
I just put it on the mop then used that on the piece. Worked fine.
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3rd August 2009, 09:37 PM #13
think about a ROS with a buffing pad on it or an automotive polisher.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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