Oil or timber stain finish for western red cedar shutters ?

[angelmark]

Hi guys, I need some advice re an oil or timber stain finish for my brand new western red cedar shutters (exterior). The shutters are exposed to sun/rain and in order to maintain the nice cedar color I need some sort of a protection. I've seen red cedar shutters going grey very quickly and turning even black......pfffff. I need a finish which is easy to apply, maintaining the light color and protecting the wood at the same time (rain, mildew etc). The semi timber stains I looked at are, for my taste, too dark/red and are not really transparent. Timber oils seem to have tints which darken the wood and the lighter ones don't seem to protect the wood as much as the one with a darker tint. I don't mind to re-coat the shutters now and then, but I would prefer not to have them sanded back all the time before applying a new coat of oil or stain (awkward to do on shutters) I've googled timber oils and timber stains and I'm now confused. So many pros and cons........... Any suggestions?

[soundman]

stain will provide absolutely no protection...all it will do is "stain"

You have to face facts...your new unpainted timber will never look new ever again...there is not a damn thing you can do about this.

Also understand there is no such thing as a long term durable clear timber finish.

You may find some advantage to oiling your bare timber.....but it aint going to keep them looking new.

I would think about a relatively simple oil, that does not have any varnish or resin mixed in........a simple oil will provide "some protection" against moisture...but that is about the end of it......a simple oil will break down and dissipate...but should not leave a coatinmg that will flake and require sanding...if you want to keep up with the effects of weather you will be reoiling annually.

cheers

[Master Splinter]

Can you replace them with aluminium shutters that are textured/painted to look like timber?

Otherwise, oil annually (or more often if heavily sun/rain exposed). They will darken from the oil, and they will grey. Think of it like maintaining a wooden deck, but more fiddly and time consuming! I'd say a decking oil would be your best bet.

OR

Dismantle the shutters, coat every surface (I mean every surface) with 2-4 coats of marine epoxy to protect against water entry, reassemble, and coat with a polyurethane varnish that's nice and heavy on the UV inhibitors to protect the epoxy from UV. Scuff sand and reapply the varnish every 2-5 years depending on how well it holds up to the elements.

OR

Coat in a Western Red Cedar coloured Solarguard, check on them every two years or so to see if they need a sand/recoat.

[angelmark]

Thanks guys for your input
I'm aware that I won't be able to maintain the 'brand new look' of my western cedar shutters, but I would like to maintain as much as I can of the typical western cedar timber look (avoiding the silvery grey look). According to a website calledhttp://www.realcedar.com
semi-transparent stain is one of the options recommended:
"Semi-Transparent Stains Solvent borne oil-based semi-transparent penetrating stains penetrate the wood surface, are porous, and do not form a surface film like paints. These finishes are the best choice for Western Red Cedar, which is fully exposed to the weather, when a natural look is desired. Although these stains can be used on both smooth and textured Western Red Cedar, they will perform much better and last longer when applied to a textured surface. These stains contain pigments which provide color – including cedar tones – and greatly increase the durability of the finish by protecting the cedar surface, to some extent, from the damaging effects of the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Service life on siding applications may vary from 3-6 years depending on the cedar surface texture, quantity of stain applied, and the intensity of the sunlight on the wood surface."
I hoped that someone in the forum had experience with semi transparent stains and could confirm or recommend something else, based on their experiences..

[lovetoride]

I have used Sikkens for western red cedar window frames for over 23 years. I wouldn't use anything else.

Depending on the current state of the timber you could use the Sikkens Cetol HLS first which has a penetrating stain (choose your tint). But the important coat is the Sikkens Supernatural which has the UV protection. This has a creamy appearance when it goes on that makes it easy to see where applied. I would then recoat with the Supernatural every 3-5 years to keep it looking good. My windows and sliding doors (full length of 31 metre house plus wide and deep courtyard) faced due north and there were no eaves so they got the full force of the sun all year round. When we sold the 22yo house a year ago most people (RE agents and potential buyers) were saying that the windows and doors were recently installed!!

Oh, and windows on the south never needed additional coats in the 22 years and I only did the eastern windows/doors once (maybe twice?) in that whole time. (No windows on west)

Jane

[angelmark]

Interesting, didn't know there is a Western Red Cedar coloured Solorguard. Is this a paint ? If yes, what brand ?

[angelmark]

I have used Sikkens for western red cedar window frames for over 23 years. I wouldn't use anything else.Jane

Thanks Jane. Heard about Sikkens, got good reviews. My shutters are brand new (wood in perfect condition). I like to maintain the lighter wood look, meaning I would choose a very light tint. Sikkens Supernatural ..... is that an oil or varnish ?


Cheers,
Angie

[Master Splinter]

Interesting, didn't know there is a Western Red Cedar coloured Solorguard. Is this a paint ? If yes, what brand ?

Just check the colour selector for Wattyl Solagard at your nearest paint place (it seems the days of the simple colour card have past into an interactive hell of "here, let us colour specify your entire house").

[angelmark]

Just check the colour selector for Wattyl Solagard at your nearest paint place (

Thanks for that I'll check this out.....
Cheers,
Angie

[gyropilot]

I bought some "Outdoor Decking Oil" from my Bristol dealer (it was made by Taubmans apparently) and goes great on my outdoor furniture (chairs table etc).

I got the lightest colour that has good UV protection, and it can be sprayed/rollered or brushed.

Biggest feature for me was NO SANDING required to recoat (every 1 or 2 years) - just clean with a water blaster, let dry, and respray !!

Magic.....


Cheers
Geoff

[yvan]

I strongly agree with Jane regarding the Sikkens Cetol HLS/Sikkens Supernatural combination.
I have 6-pane sash windows made of Huon Pine facing North West. I used the Sikkens combination which lasted some 15 years before having to do them again. Our Tasmanian sun is particularly high in UV's and is harsh on any surface exposed to it!

Yvan

[Dengue]

Totally agree with Jane about Sikkens. I have used it with great success on west facing doors which cop the direct sun, here in the tropics. First stain to the natural colour of the timber then cover with the UV resistant coating - will last many years before you need re-coating

[Dengue]

Townsville is the acknowledged skin cancer capital of Australia because of its high UV levels. If Sikkens performs well here ( and it is a big seller in the hardware stores here), then it will perform anywhere.

Comparative charts for tomorrow shown below from the BoM, and it is not even summer here:

UV Townsville.JPGUV Hobart.JPG

[Dengue]

Although Darwin can get pretty high too, but has a much smaller population than Townsville, particularly if you take in the nearby towns of Ingham and Ayr, Home hill etc, all within 100km or so. I suppose they think Townsville gets the highest exposure to it by virtue of the number of people exposed. There is a skin cancer industry thriving up here. Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread.



UV Darwin.JPG

[Peter57]

I used the very light Sikkens on WRC weather boards many years ago. Brilliant product, looked great and weathered well. Eventually had to re coat some of it after about 5 or 6 years of zero maintenance.