Finish for a dining table out of LSG slabs

[jerlinjames]

Hi there, could someone point me in the right direction.

I have just made a square tabletop roughly 1.7 x 1.7 made from 3 slabs of Lemon scented gumtree.

I have been advised so many different finishes ( at Wood show wa) and is confused..

I was initailly thinking of a wipe on poly that I made myself with polyeurathane, mineral turpantane and a tiny bit of linseed oil.

At the wood show I was told it would probably be best if I use penetrol and saturate it.
The Flood Company Australia » Wood Care Products » penetrol_wood_oil

On a side note, I was wondering if it would be ok if I wipe on some epoxy (west system) to seal all the gaps/knots/defects and then sand it all down and then use either the oil/wipe on poly to finish it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

[Master Splinter]

What sort of finished appearance are you looking for? High gloss or just a sheen? If it's the former, you need a polyurethane; the latter, an oil.

What sort of maintenance schedule do you want for it - yearly maintenance or a five to ten yearly sand back to bare timber and complete refinish? The first would be oil, the second would be poly.

And yes, the epoxy will fill gaps - best if tinted to a dark, gum veiny type colour.

[jerlinjames]

thanks for the reply,

I'd want it to be a matt/very close to wood look. Looks like oil is the way to go. I dont mind the yearly maintanance on it.

Hopefully I can find the tint for the epoxy in masters or bunnings.

[AngelaPetruzzi]

Hi
If you are intending to use oil, one option would be the certified food safe Kunos Natural oil or Kunos Countertop oil ...available in Fremantle.
Unlike coating systems that sit on top of the timber, these oils are penetrating oils and need to connect to the top parts of the surface. Therefore, we do not recommend very fine sanding prior to applying the first coat. Apply a liberal coat of oil and leave to penetrate for 20 minutes then wipe off anything that does not penetrate.

The next day, one goes over the surface (dry and with no oil) with an e.g. orbitalsander and a polishing pad, a very fine or worn sandpaper, or similar. The idea of this is it flattens the wax crystals in the dried surface, giving it more indication of shine as well as creating a more durable finish. (It is not due to the timber fibres sticking up). This then builds up the “fine" furniture feel one would achieve from the typical fine sanding completed prior to e.g. varnishing. If one sands very finely prior to the first coat, the oils will not penetrate as they should into the top part of the timber.
If you then correctly maintain the surface and rub in some oil if or when needs be, then it will last you forever and a day. As with any product, it life comes down to correct maintenance.

Good luck with whichever you go.