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  1. #1

    Default What is in Cabots Danish Oil

    I have been reading a book on finishing by Bob Flexner with an interesting chapter on Oil Finishes in which he distinguishes between oil/varnish mixes, and thinned varnish among other categories. Does anyone know into which category Cabots Danish Oil fits?

  2. #2
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    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

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    Default Beware of spontanous combustion in your oily rags...

    A short answer, there are basically 2 types of oil finishes sold, regardless of what names the companies may use.

    #1 - You will wipe this oil on with a cloth, allow it to dwell for several miniutes to soak and pentrate into the wood, and then you wipe the oil off, and allow each coat to dry. Multiple thin coats are used to build up this oil finish.

    #2- You can brush or wipe on this type of oil finish, you then allow the finish to dry, because you allow to remain on the wood, you will get a higher build in the coating. The amount of applications needed will depend on your personal taste. but usually, sanding, rubbing, and polishing are used to complete this type of oil/ varnish.

    Both of these types of "oil finishes" may have the same exact ingredients except #2 has more alkyd resins to make this coating build up faster and. better.

    Good Luck

  4. #4
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    Default

    There is a third type, which requires friction sealing. In Oz, the Organoil finishes fall into and are a great example of, this category. You swab the workpiece with oil to reach saturation and sand with a ROS to get the proper finish. I personally like this method.

    Regards,

    Rob

  5. #5
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    thanks cliff,
    but in ordinary layspeak it dosnt seem to tell us actually what it's made of.
    I always assumed it was an veg based oil with a synthetic hardener.
    I must say that I.ve used it for years and got FP like finishes.
    not quite as good but good
    Astrid

  6. #6

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    Thanks Cliff but the site does not really clarify my question although I might guess that there is really no "oil" involved and that it is a thined polyurethane which can be wiped on. Anyone else know for certain which type it is?

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    "30-60% Kerosene, 30-60% Synthetic Polymers, 10-30% Mineral Turpentine."

    I guess that accurate measurement ain't their "thing."
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  8. #8
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    Default OIL FINISh

    Wolfs,

    Both, the Kerosene and the Mineral Turpentine are consided "oily solvents."

    It would be the "wipe on / wipe off" type, the polyurethane would be the resin and binder, you would be wiping off the oily solvents and leaving polyurethane as the coating.

    There was a clue in the description, and that was it is "a hand rubbed finish."

  9. #9
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    Red face Danish Oil

    Andhere I was thinking it was a sub species of Scandanavia Oil, which, as we all know, is what the Scandanavians use for Swedish massages.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by artme View Post
    Andhere I was thinking it was a sub species of Scandanavia Oil, which, as we all know, is what the Scandanavians use for Swedish massages.
    So! No wonder they darken after massaging.
    Has Danish oil perhaps have the juices of compressed Danes (Great or otherwise) in it?
    Seriously,
    I know Scandinavian oil has some varnish in it and given the way Feast and Watson Danish oil clogs grain something terrible (you lose half the figure of the wood) I suspect you'll find some plastic in the Cabot's as well.

    Regards,

    Rob

  11. #11
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    They aren't bloody stupid, they aren't going to give you the recipe on a plate.

    If you read both docs closely you will pick out most of it.
    penetrating oil for interior
    no UV stabilisers
    Polyurethane resin
    Lead free. Dry film is non-toxic.
    no lead

    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    "30-60% Kerosene, 30-60% Synthetic Polymers, 10-30% Mineral Turpentine."

    I guess that accurate measurement ain't their "thing."
    You missed one of the important ones Skew...
    Ingredients determined not to be hazardous, - to 100%
    And the application....
    Timber finish. Applied by brush.
    So, it has Kero, Turps, PolyU, maybe a bit of grit to give it a satin finish, no lead or UV stabilisers & you apply it with a brush.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  12. #12
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    Default Its made up as a "satin" coating.

    The Polyurethane that they use is a "satin" it already contains the "flattening agent"....

  13. #13
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    It also says on the can that its "oil rich"
    I knew it had kero and poly in it, but describing turps as an oil is a bit rich.
    never mind , its still a good product.
    astrid

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    I don't know that it says that it contains polyurethane, it says "synthetic polymers".

    This can mean a variety of things, if they also say "oil rich" then it probably means that the "synthetic polymer" is a long-oil alkyd, probably 70% oil-length. Then the description would be correct.

    Most Danish/Scandinavian Oils use long-oil alkyds they are more stable in the can at the low solids in these products. (28% V/V - 100micron wet film gives 28micron dry film)


    That is how the DO we used to sell was formulated.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Shed View Post
    I don't know that it says that it contains polyurethane, it says "synthetic polymers".
    ...
    On the MSDS it says
    Synthetic polymer(s)
    but if you look at the Product Data Sheet it says
    Polyurethane resin
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

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