Pen finishes

[tonks]

I am currently doing some pen turning (i am very much a beginner) and would like some advice on the best type of finishes to put on the pens. Currently I am trying some Canauba - old fashioned furniture polish.
I have previously tried olive oil followed by beeswax.

Both of these came out okay but I am concerned about the "staying power" of both.

Would someone please put me on the straight and narrow?

regards,

Allen

[Shane Watson]

check out this LINK
Neil will no doubt fill you in on some details. But I don't think you will find a better product to finish decorative turnings.

Cheers

Shane Watson...

[Lance]

I believe the most durable finish would be either 2 pack polyurethane or fibreglass resin. Can any finish gurus confirm this?

Other finishes used on pens
I sand to 1200 then use eee Ultrashine then top it with Shellawax on my pens (except plastic ones). I don't know how durable this finish is, all pens I have turned are less than a month old . I guess it would wear away over time. I have heard of others using super glue, letting it dry then buffing it as a finish. Others prefer an oil finish which is flat or matt.
Some prefer spray on lacquers or
brush/dip fibreglass resins.
Others use shellac or a mix of shellac and linseed oil.
If you are going to sell your pens most people like really shiny pens (according to some people posting to the group below. They say the average Joe equates shiny with quality). So you might have to remove oils and some waxes from your finishing options.

There is a message group at http://www.egroups.com/messages/penturners
Which may be able to offer more help. They sometimes discuss this topic. (I think you have to be a member before you can view or post at the above group)

cheers,
Lance

[tonks]

Thanks for your advice Shane and Lance,

It would appear that I have got the sanding of the pens going ok I have been using a 700 grit then a 1200 as a fine finish prior to applying the Carnauba polish.

This gives the finished pen a very satin like finish.

I had a look at the stuff on the link you showed Shane and it appears that the Carnauba Polish I am using is for the same sort of applications as the Shellawax.

Guess I jagged that one

I suppose the only way to test the longevity is to handle the pen continuously for a few days and see what happens.

regards,

Allen

[ubeaut]

Do yourself a favour and get a bottle of Shellawax. You will never look back. There is no comparison with what you are doing now and the finish you can obtain on pens using Shellawax.

Available in WA from Timbecon - Still getting their site together but you can contact them via email.

Cheers - Neil

[tonks]

No worries Neil, I'll give it a go.

I'm pretty sure one of our local hardware shops (where i got my lathe from) has just got some in.

I'll let you know the results in a few days.


regards,

Allen

[RETIRED]

Gooday.

Read and obey the instructions. if in doubt ask on the board.

------------------
Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

[John Saxton]

Allen, I can only reiterate what others have said and endorse the shellawax totally as a good application for pens with the finish lasting well in that I have had no complaints from customers.
Cheers

------------------
Johnno

[tonks]

Well I got some Shellawax liquid and gave it a go.

Aye carumba!!

It sure does make a difference
Thanks guys


regards

Allen

[Glenn.Visca]

I recently acquired some Shellawax Cream from Ray Sanders down at Beenatree to use for finishing pens. Last weekend, whilst turning a tool handle, I thought I would give the Shellawax a go. I must admit....this product gives a beautiful finish and is dead easy to apply.

As the handle was out of a left over bit of Tas Oak, I thought I would take the opportunity to experiment a bit.

First I applied 3 coats a spirit based "Red Cedar" stain and left to dry for a couple of hours. I then pulled out the Shellawax, and watched all the stain I put into the timber get sucked out onto the rag . I was trying to get the handles to match the rest of my collection, which had been finished with the same stain and 4 or 5 coats of shellac.

No problem I thought....I can remember reading somewhere (but cant actually remember where now !!) that Shellawax would work over the top of shellac. So, another 3 coats of stain, leave to dry over night....2 coats of shellac...leave to dry for 3 hours....Shellawax....watch stain AND shellac move from timber to rag .

End result, a Tas Oak parting tool handle with a lovely finish, stained to a baltic like color.

I would be interested in other feedback here...and potentially some tips on correcting any errors I made.

Regards...


------------------
Glenn Visca

[Shane Watson]

Glenn, I am sure Neil will give more of an accurate response than I am about too, but he has an advantage he makes the stuff!

From what I have read about the Shellawax Cream I can offer you the following ( all be it probably totally wrong ).

Because this is a 'Friction' polish it will to my understanding remove the surface as if you were sanding it with 2000+ grit paper. Also I would imagine it would contain ethanol or turps which would help in removing the stain and shellac. If you want to stain it, you will probably be better off using a water based stain that penetrates deeper into the woodgrain.

Now, In saying all that, I am probably barking up the wrong tree! Neil can correct me! BUT noone else! except maybe !

[RETIRED]

Gooday.

Shane is right in saying to use a water based stain. At demos we use a water dye and put the cream straight over the top. No drama.

The Grand Poobah is without (computer) at the mo but I am sure he will answer when he can.

------------------
Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

[ubeaut]

Glen, Glen, Glen. - The very first line on the back label says FOR USE ON RAW TIMBER ONLY.

Most people fail with their use of a product because they fail to read the info provided with the product or ask for help. You have done the right thing by seeking help here.

When staining or dying timber you should always use a stain or dye that is not compatible with the finish. e.g. use a water or oil base under a spirit based finish, (shellac is made with methylated SPIRITS). Use oil or spirit under water and oil based finish. etc. etc.

The reason for this is pretty simple. As spirit stain is compatible with the spirit finish it will be drawn off the timber and into the finish because one acts as a solvent on the other. Water based finish over a water dye will give the same result, etc.

Shellac is also compatible with Shellawax so it too will be drawn off the surface. By the way shellac really needs a couple of weeks to harden properly. It still wouldn't work but at least it wouldn't work over properly dried shellac and not green shellac.

If you wish to colour timber under Shellawax use a Water Dye It is also a good idea to get and read a data/info sheet for the product you are using, try our U-Beaut Products pages for more info.

I hope this helps Glen.

Cheers - Neil

[This message has been edited by ubeaut (edited 16 January 2001).]

[Glenn.Visca]

mea culpa...

I had previously read the web information while at work. Have now printed off all the material from the web site and have in folder above lathe for easy reference

thanks again....

cheers

------------------
Glenn Visca

[This message has been edited by Glenn.Visca (edited 16 January 2001).]

[ubeaut]

Well done Glen. I'm proud of ya.

Cheers - Neil