Aarrrgghhh #$%$& bent blade

[HappyHammer]

I was cutting this piece of green Olive wood when the blade jammed and the saw came to a sudden stop. Did I bite of more than I should of..... It's well within the saw height capability. I had to dig the blade out with a chisel it was stuck fast. Any tips on cutting green timber much appreicated.

Oh yeah and I bent my bloody 1" blade, can I fix it myself? Heat it up maybe?

HH.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

That's one of the problems with cutting rounds: the least catch and they roll on the table, converting a minor catch into a major seizure. More people get hurt that way.

The safe method is to make a v-block sled to give the round decent support while you cut it.

[Stevenp]

That's one of the problems with cutting rounds: the least catch and they roll on the table, converting a minor catch into a major seizure. More people get hurt that way.

The safe method is to make a v-block sled to give the round decent support while you cut it.

Been there done that , but its the sort of thing you only do once. Hopefully.

[weisyboy]

i have done this twice. cutting rounds on the badaw is never easy as said you need a jig of some sort.

i have bent 2 1" blades and it is useless trying to streighten them you can nevver get them rihgt. it dosent matter mutch when it is a thin blaed with fine teath but with a big 1" blade any discrepancy makes a big diferance.

use it to make othetr tools and buy a nother blade.

scary aint it.

[ubeaut]

Sounds silly but try using a 3/8" or 1/4" blade. I used the smaller blades for cutting rounds and all sorts of really odd and dangerous pieces of timber for many years (woodcarvers are a dangerous breed) and never had a dig in or bent blade. Less surface area to get caught and much more control over the cut.

Here's a narrow blade hint to go with the above. I used to keep a few 1/4" & 3/8" hobbies section blade (very thin blade made to go over small 3 wheelers and not break) especially for resawing timber into thin stock. I have cut dead straight veneers 2mm thick of 8" thick stock 10' long. They're dead accurate and clean cutting.

Cheers - Neil

[artme]

I ruined a blade in exactly the same manner - first cut with it!!
Would never attempt again without a sled.

[HappyHammer]

Oh well back to Henry Brothers.....

Nice to know it's not just me. Any tips on a sled? Before I started I thought of something with some pins to secure the round.

HH.

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

I've seen all sorts of sleds made for this, but I reckon that the best is basically just a box with a Vee cut in each end as this gives decent support for "crooked" lengths.

Another type can be made by ripping a stud at a 45°ish angle and gluing the two halves side-by-side on a base-board, but I reckon these don't work as well when the round is shaped like a boomerang.

I've also seen people add mitre-track guides, etc. but I've never seen the sense in that.


Oh... and for that "quick cut" where I couldn't be bothered moving the pile of shyte sitting on top of my sled, I have been known to simply screw or nail a board across the end of round to prevent it from rolling.

[Wood Borer]

Another method is to use an electron burner plane to get a couple or more flat and level surfaces on the log.

Use some hot melt glue to stick it to a piece of scrap chipboard so it is stable.

The chipboard ideally is 100mm or more wider than the log.

Use the edge of the chipboard against a pointed fence to accurately cut the log.

The idea of hot melt glue is to avoid nails and screws plus a quick gluing.

The idea of the MDF is to have a reference edge and a stable platform for the log.

[weisyboy]

a box is mutch better than a v block. streight sides that is.

when milling with a llucas or teh like you need a square cutout not a v or the log can still roll.

you can also make one wiht moveable blocks to adjust it for diferent sizes and acomadate branches and teh like.

[BobL]

I'm a big fan of sleds but what about just clamping a block of wood to the blade side of the log? 2 blocks, one either side of the cut if you want belt and braces. If I was doing this regularly I would either make up a steel U shaped clamp or weld a piece of flat steel to the back of a C-clamp.

[Stuart]

This might be silly, but if I was doing the same on a TS with a blade that looks like that, I would say that I was crosscutting with a ripping blade, and wouldn't have been surprised if it had jammed. Especially something that looks very green.

This would also tie in with what Neil was saying, as the smaller blades wouldn't have such a low tooth count as the blade pictured.

[mat]

Stuart

I don't think you can really make a comparison like that between circular saw blades and band saw blades.

The reason narrow blades work well is that they allow tighter curves. Therfore when your workpiece moves the blade thinks you are making a curve. Biggger blades only allow a wider arc curve.

[HappyHammer]

OK show me some pictures of your jigs and sleds....

HH.

[Caliban]

hh
This is how you treat your brand new saw????????
Will we have to watch for a "good as new bandsaw" in the for sale section and avoid it like the plague?