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Thread: Shop Lighting
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30th September 2010, 12:52 PM #1Member
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- Jan 2009
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- Colorado Springs, CO USA
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Shop Lighting
I'm really having trouble reading rulers in my shop. I use florescent lights. Is there something that works better?
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30th September 2010, 01:42 PM #2
I have 150w lamps that I mount where I need them close to those places that I need them. A spigot mount so that I can move the light between locations where I've put the spigots - lathe, drill press, band-saw, grinder etc.
The work lamps I bought were those that have adjustable arms, spring loaded and the mounts are spigots on clamps. Just fashioned a few extra spigot mounts as appropriate. Even got one on an old rear axle mounted backwards onto an old cast iron brake drum that I can move around!Perhaps it is better to be irresponsible and right, than to be responsible and wrong.
Winston Churchill
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30th September 2010, 01:48 PM #3
I use sunlight, (go to the door and whince until I see the numbers,) sometimes my glasses help, when I remember to bring them out to the shed, I find those magnetic work lights are great, then there are the magnetic battery powered lcd lights that arent too bad!
G'day I'm Dave!
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30th September 2010, 10:29 PM #4
Assuming that you have enough general lighting to do most shop tasks safely, I am guessing that you end up working in your own shadow. To overcome this, you could resort to a micropoise lamp as a work lamp, a 10W compact fluro lamp generlly supplies plenty of light with modest heat in these fittings.
An other alternative would be a LED headlamp of some type, you can get them band mounted, or with the LEDs on the visor of a baseball cap. I have a nice single LED one that is like a Bluetooth mobile phone earpiece, and runs for a long time on a pair of CR2025 lithium buttons. Fits either ear, has two brightness settings, and adjustable up and down and side to side when fitted.
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3rd October 2010, 12:45 AM #5
I find that shadow is the worst for making lines/marks disappear I move the square upto my mark and then its gone, disappered in the shadow, move square away, there it is, move square back, cant see it!!! arrggghhh solution plenty of light, sunlight is good like dave or just lots of light from the right direction or sometimes u might see my doing this little jig as I dance about with a bit of wood and square in one hand pencil in the other...round and round I go up down round up nose to the wood
Pete
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5th October 2010, 03:29 AM #6Member
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- Jan 2009
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- Colorado Springs, CO USA
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Can you send me a picture of your spigot mount?
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16th October 2010, 10:25 AM #7He who turns good wood into saw dust
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- Jan 2010
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- Innisfail. NQ
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- 71
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Sussertown,
you should never use a fluro light near machinery as it will 'stobe' at certain speeds and the tool will appear to be stopped, much pain and blood stains new timber. best using the 12v halogen on a swing arm over the bench.
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16th October 2010, 10:29 AM #8
Some people would disagree with you it seems
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/wor...lathes-119892/
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16th October 2010, 11:29 AM #9
G'day Sussertown,
I have an under-house woodshop with flouros but used "daylight triphosperous" flouro tubes plus I installed twice as many as one might need for just storage.
I have also fitted specific directional lamps/lights onto the bandsaw, drill-press, bench-saw & router.
It may sound like a bit of an over kill but you have to have good light for working with sharp and dangerous tools.
Cheers, Crowie
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16th October 2010, 11:56 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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- Jul 2004
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- Laurieton
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I based my workshop lighting setup on an article from Fine Woodworking using fluro lights. It is like day when all the lights are on, with no shadows at all. I have no problems reading marks of any description. You might want to have a look at this article, unless of course you are just looking for task lighting.
Bob
"If a man is after money, he's money mad; if he keeps it, he's a capitalist; if he spends it, he's a playboy; if he doesn't get it, he's a never-do-well; if he doesn't try to get it, he lacks ambition. If he gets it without working for it; he's a parasite; and if he accumulates it after a life time of hard work, people call him a fool who never got anything out of life."
- Vic Oliver
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16th October 2010, 10:43 PM #11He who turns good wood into saw dust
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17th October 2010, 01:02 AM #12Member
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- Colorado Springs, CO USA
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Here we go again. I looked up micropose lamp and came up blank.
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17th October 2010, 01:08 AM #13Member
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- Colorado Springs, CO USA
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I don't know what triosphorous is but I did buy a simple, cheap three headed ceiling lamp and installed 3 daylight florescent bulbs. They work really well. But I notice I'm getting a little shadow probably from the other shop lights behind me. So I guess you still have to use one form or another of a spot from time to time.
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17th October 2010, 08:32 AM #14
A micropoise lamp is a lamp head which pivots on two internally sprung arms roughly vertical and horizontal. Can be positioned within about 3 feet of the mounting point and will stay lighting the point where it is aimed.
The light produced by any flouro light is dictated by the flourescent coating inside the tube, and is mono chromatic (single coloured). A trisphor flouro lamp has a mixture of three different phosphors in the coating so produces a much better balance of colours in the light output. There are various combinations possible but most are refered to as "daylight".
A compact flouro lamp uses electronics in the base to convert the mains power to DC, then an inverter to generate a high frequency (25KHz or higher) exciting current to power the tube. While done to reduce the size of the lamp and eliminate the external ballast/starter system, it also moves the point where stobing occurs to spindle speeds beyond 300,000 RPM.
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22nd October 2010, 12:33 AM #15Intermediate Member
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- Oct 2010
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- Central Canada Mb.
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I use Deluxe Warm White, not warm white but Deluxe WW. Unlike the cool white and so called daylight bulbs they give a light much like incandescent bulbs. All-toll I have 72' of this lighting in my shop which is only twenty by twenty foot. The center work station where my saw, joiner and router table live are lit by five four foot double flo_lights which radiate out in a star pattern, I have found that this configuration removes all shadows and dead areas.
The rest of the fixtures are along the walls with the exception of over the lathe as I can't stand the way flo lights make the workpiece writhe and squirm like a horny snake. Over the lathe I use Quartz halogen bulbs, 2x 150 watts.
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