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  1. #121
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    999

    Default

    Col,
    Can't you find it?
    Cheers,
    Rod

  2. #122
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Over there a bit
    Age
    17
    Posts
    1,883

    Default

    I think its wonderful, and can't see what the others are on about. The subtle changes and nuances have perhaps been missed by the slower members, however my highly evolved neanderthal brain spotted tyem right off.
    Boring signature time again!

  3. #123
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Age
    77
    Posts
    1,627

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bitingmidge
    Sooo it wasn't just me!!!

    I thought it was only visible to the enlightened!

    P
    This is, by definition, Dark Side business - so, don't you mean the endarkened?
    Driver of the Forums
    Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover

  4. #124
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    there is no lake at- Kinglake
    Posts
    227

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Willson
    I have a different breed of belt sander. It is one of the multitool 100mm * 1220mm linishers that attaches to a standard grinding machine. It is a great machine but I will need to work out how to attach the arm rests as it does not have the flat sides that the others do. They actually sell a chisel sharpening jig for it, but this costs$97 and does not appear to be as good as your design Derek
    Have one of these jigs ,i found it a pain to use for sharpening.Because the grinder runs fairly fast there are a lot of vibrations(not good one's )Want to try it?I have a gmc wet grinder from bunnies.(yes, the one some were rubbishing )plan to bolt a veritas in front of it.Its slow and its vet.
    Regards ,Bela
    forge

  5. #125
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Northern Beaches
    Age
    77
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sturdee
    Derek,


    I have the same model and I agree that the table is not very strong. In fact as I have a 12" disk sander I don't use the disk sanding part of it and therefore I haven't even installed the table on mine. I just had a look at it and it's not as strong as the Ryobi it replaced.

    I have been sharpening kitchen knives etc on a 1" belt sander using 60 grit belt and then honing on a honing wheel running on an old bench grinder direction of wheels reversed).

    When time permits I'll adept the sander with your mod.


    Peter.
    Sturdee, You say "I have been sharpening kitchen knives etc on a 1" belt sander using 60 grit belt and then honing on a honing wheel running on an old bench grinder direction of wheels reversed)."

    Can you please explain how you reverse the direction of the grinding wheel.
    dave
    nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Sydney Australia
    Posts
    53

    Default Bench Sander Grinder Jig

    An excellent jig. I have just been through the process of buying a belt/disc sander. These start at 1/3hp but for sanding wood, a larger horsepower is better. I found Timbercom had a 2/3hp for a reasonable amount. Belts are a problem and I have not found a source for getting very fine (for wood) above 120grit. But they are available in the USA.

    For metal sharpening purposes (or polishing the back of a chisel) I have tried and found that a smaller belt in width works fine. That is, instead of using the normal supplied 4inch belt I used a 2inch wide belt. This opened up access to the metal linishing belts but so far I have only found a source for 240grit. I am trying to get 800grit.
    Anyone have any sources for belts?

  7. #127
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    9,037

    Default

    Hi John

    Gee, it is over 2 years since I designed this jig. I have posted a MkII version for those prepared to do a little metalwork (and wanting easier set up).

    With regard to belts, I have a contact for up to 2000 grit, and actually do use a 1300 belt. However I am in Perth and so this would not necessarily help you: Abraflex - (08) 9370 3455 They are a company that sell sandpaper and specialize in custom sander belts. I would suggest you look up a local company in your Yellow Pages.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #128
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Port Sorell, TAS
    Age
    59
    Posts
    1,196

    Default New triton sander as blade grinder?

    I can't find the MkII thread, so this'll do. Those with an 'el dereko' sander - would this one be as good, with the tilting table set to whatever angle you fancy? Green rouge on a pad on the round bit if you wanted?

    http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/rev...discsander.htm
    The only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde

    .....so go4it people!

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    9,037

    Default

    TK

    Here is the link to the Mk II:
    http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=16156

    The Triton looks similar to the belt sander used for the Mk I but is closer in price to that of the Mk II. No contest - go to Carba-tec and get the one shown in Mk II. My one is 3/4 HP and cast iron. Build like a battleship.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  10. #130
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    6,891

    Default

    I'd like to resurrect this thread from the archives and ask a question. Derek, do you use it to sharpen your hand plane blades? If so do you grind a radius on the blade using this jig or do you do it on a stone afterwards, or perhaps not at all?
    CHRIS

  11. #131
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    9,037

    Default

    Hi Chris

    I could use the belt sander to sharpen blades - I have grits at high as 1300 (and 2000 is available). Instead I only use the BS to grind the primary bevel, which can be anything between 80 - 240, depending on the state of the edge.

    I do not use the BS to grind a radius, unless it is a moderate camber for a jack or a significant camber for a scrub. For panel and smoother planes I will do this as I hone the blades on waterstones.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #132
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    6,891

    Default

    Thanks Derek, that was quick!
    CHRIS

  13. #133
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    78
    Posts
    10,475

    Default

    Mini - I use a jig on much the same principle for establishing a curved primary bevel. Unlike Derek, I don't have any compunction about using a grinder - frankly, can't see the difference between a belt sander and a grinder - both will cook anything if you use worn grits/glazed stones/apply too much pressure, etc. (I don't often argue with Dr. D., but this is one issue I differ on! )

    Here is a pic of such a jig - quite an exaggerated curve I'm putting on here, but that's another story. Been using a setup like this for well over 20 years, quite happily, and yes, through inattention and sheer stupidity (aka being in too much of a hurry) I have blued the extreme edge of an occasional blade.

    Cheers,
    IW

  14. #134
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    6,891

    Default

    Ian, thanks for your input, there are more ways of sharpening than skinning any cat. I bet the old time cabinet makers and chippies didn't go to all this trouble when time was money and they had to do it almost continually through the day, every day.
    CHRIS

  15. #135
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    9,037

    Default

    Unlike Derek, I don't have any compunction about using a grinder - frankly, can't see the difference between a belt sander and a grinder
    Ian, we cannot even disagree on this one since I use a 6" grinder as much, if not more, than the belt sander.

    I prefer hollow grinding most blades when I can (Western chisels, BD blades - even some BU blades) and then going directly to freehand honing on waterstones. Flat grinds are preferred for Japanese blades and high angle BU blades that require a microbevel.



    Here using the Tormek angle setter on the grinder.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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