![Thanks](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/thanks.png)
![Likes](https://www.renovateforums.com.au/dbtech/thanks/images/likes.png)
![Needs Pictures](https://www.woodworkforums.com/images/smilies/happy/photo4.gif)
![Picture(s) thanks](https://www.ubeaut.biz/wave.gif)
Results 121 to 135 of 138
Thread: Bench Sander Blade Grinder
-
3rd April 2005, 11:28 PM #121
GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Perth WA
- Posts
- 999
Col,
Can't you find it?Cheers,
Rod
-
4th April 2005, 08:53 AM #122
I think its wonderful, and can't see what the others are on about. The subtle changes and nuances have perhaps been missed by the slower members, however my highly evolved neanderthal brain spotted tyem right off.
Boring signature time again!
-
4th April 2005, 02:17 PM #123
Originally Posted by bitingmidge
Driver of the Forums
Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover
-
31st December 2005, 11:46 PM #124
Originally Posted by Bob Willson
)Want to try it?I have a gmc wet grinder from bunnies.(yes, the one some were rubbishing
)plan to bolt a veritas in front of it.Its slow and its vet.
Regards ,Belaforge
-
6th March 2006, 09:29 AM #125
Originally Posted by Sturdee
Can you please explain how you reverse the direction of the grinding wheel.dave
nothing is so easy to do as when you figure out the impossible.
-
15th July 2006, 03:39 PM #126
Awaiting Email Confirmation
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Location
- Sydney Australia
- Posts
- 53
Bench Sander Grinder Jig
An excellent jig. I have just been through the process of buying a belt/disc sander. These start at 1/3hp but for sanding wood, a larger horsepower is better. I found Timbercom had a 2/3hp for a reasonable amount. Belts are a problem and I have not found a source for getting very fine (for wood) above 120grit. But they are available in the USA.
For metal sharpening purposes (or polishing the back of a chisel) I have tried and found that a smaller belt in width works fine. That is, instead of using the normal supplied 4inch belt I used a 2inch wide belt. This opened up access to the metal linishing belts but so far I have only found a source for 240grit. I am trying to get 800grit.
Anyone have any sources for belts?
-
15th July 2006, 05:06 PM #127
Hi John
Gee, it is over 2 years since I designed this jig. I have posted a MkII version for those prepared to do a little metalwork (and wanting easier set up).
With regard to belts, I have a contact for up to 2000 grit, and actually do use a 1300 belt. However I am in Perth and so this would not necessarily help you: Abraflex - (08) 9370 3455 They are a company that sell sandpaper and specialize in custom sander belts. I would suggest you look up a local company in your Yellow Pages.
Regards from Perth
Derek
-
19th December 2006, 11:31 AM #128
New triton sander as blade grinder?
I can't find the MkII thread, so this'll do. Those with an 'el dereko' sander - would this one be as good, with the tilting table set to whatever angle you fancy? Green rouge on a pad on the round bit if you wanted?
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/rev...discsander.htmThe only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde
.....so go4it people!
-
19th December 2006, 08:02 PM #129
TK
Here is the link to the Mk II:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=16156
The Triton looks similar to the belt sander used for the Mk I but is closer in price to that of the Mk II. No contest - go to Carba-tec and get the one shown in Mk II. My one is 3/4 HP and cast iron. Build like a battleship.
Regards from Perth
Derek
-
5th September 2007, 01:09 AM #130
GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 6,891
I'd like to resurrect this thread from the archives and ask a question. Derek, do you use it to sharpen your hand plane blades? If so do you grind a radius on the blade using this jig or do you do it on a stone afterwards, or perhaps not at all?
CHRIS
-
5th September 2007, 01:27 AM #131
Hi Chris
I could use the belt sander to sharpen blades - I have grits at high as 1300 (and 2000 is available). Instead I only use the BS to grind the primary bevel, which can be anything between 80 - 240, depending on the state of the edge.
I do not use the BS to grind a radius, unless it is a moderate camber for a jack or a significant camber for a scrub. For panel and smoother planes I will do this as I hone the blades on waterstones.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
-
5th September 2007, 01:34 AM #132
GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 6,891
Thanks Derek, that was quick!
CHRIS
-
5th September 2007, 10:50 AM #133
Mini - I use a jig on much the same principle for establishing a curved primary bevel. Unlike Derek, I don't have any compunction about using a grinder - frankly, can't see the difference between a belt sander and a grinder - both will cook anything if you use worn grits/glazed stones/apply too much pressure, etc. (I don't often argue with Dr. D., but this is one issue I differ on!
)
Here is a pic of such a jig - quite an exaggerated curve I'm putting on here, but that's another story. Been using a setup like this for well over 20 years, quite happily, and yes, through inattention and sheer stupidity (aka being in too much of a hurry) I have blued the extreme edge of an occasional blade.
Cheers,IW
-
5th September 2007, 12:25 PM #134
GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 6,891
Ian, thanks for your input, there are more ways of sharpening than skinning any cat. I bet the old time cabinet makers and chippies didn't go to all this trouble when time was money and they had to do it almost continually through the day, every day.
CHRIS
-
5th September 2007, 01:27 PM #135Unlike Derek, I don't have any compunction about using a grinder - frankly, can't see the difference between a belt sander and a grinder
I prefer hollow grinding most blades when I can (Western chisels, BD blades - even some BU blades) and then going directly to freehand honing on waterstones. Flat grinds are preferred for Japanese blades and high angle BU blades that require a microbevel.
Here using the Tormek angle setter on the grinder.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.