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Thread: Wickman OPG Optical Grinder.
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1st December 2013, 06:33 PM #106GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Phil,
I never even thought about them being tapered dowels. I'll have another look. The drawing shows parrallel.
I've tired pretty gently lifting them off but they are pretty hard to get at. I'd thought about a slide hammer gripping the doveltail but I'm saving that one for last resort.
One pin I can get at(from the back) but it doesn't want to move, it went "in" a little but now sounds solid. To get at one of the others would mean taking a shaft out of the gearbox. An other one would need some sort of dogleg punch. The last seems to be in a blind hole.
I'll borrow some freezeing spray, though if I cant drill a hole in the pin I doubt it will help.
I'll have another look at everything again. I would have thought they would have made them so I can drive them staight through, but it doesnt seem so.
Stuart
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1st December 2013, 06:39 PM #107
A man after my own heart.
Static, spotlessly clean, spit or that fabulous modern tecnologicy stuff. That my lot. I am all out of further ideas.
Had a sulphur crested type polly screeeeching at unbelievable volumn just outside at about 9:30 pm the other evening. I was tempted to discharge a firearm to explain my displeasure at his behaviour when I was thinking about going to sleep but I guess that is not quite the right method you require.
Sounds like too many to keep track of!
Yes I need a new plastics guy, but he is the only one I have. Perspex is old school. Cheaper but not always good enough. It is fun to shape with heat tho. I have an old electric frying pan that I use. Cement sheet under the bits you don't want hot. Cheap (free) and easy.
Dean
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1st December 2013, 07:51 PM #108GOLD MEMBER
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Found a way in, its in three parts now. Dinner time!
Stuart
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1st December 2013, 09:09 PM #1091915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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1st December 2013, 11:44 PM #110GOLD MEMBER
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- Jul 2010
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Close, a claw hammer, some Aluminium and a large rubber mallet. Followed by what some might call feather and wedges.....0.5mm at a time. but I got there.
We've had some tiny halfmoons, now for some big ones and a (what looks like) hand ground oil groove.
After all that turns out my measuring must have been a little on the rough side of rough!(see picture) After all the things arent as bad as I thought, serves me right I guess.
Now do I try and get the pins out, which should make things easier when it comes to putting it back together, but could really make life tough if I damage them trying.
Stuart
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2nd December 2013, 03:53 PM #111SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jul 2011
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- Melbourne Australia
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Are you going to want to move those two slide sections closer together to make up for the wear? Wasn't that the gib that had shim under it. If you elongate those SHCS holes, then you can re-ream the dowels. Must dowels are case hardened, if you grind a few millimetres off the end, you should be able to drill them.
And that looks a perfect job for a little drill guide bush. I'm guessing they are 3/8" dowels. If you had a bit of stock and bored one end 3/8" so it located over the dowel, and drill through at tapping drill size for the rest of it.
Regards Phil.
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2nd December 2013, 05:54 PM #112GOLD MEMBER
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I have no idea. Am I? sure sounds like a good idea. Yes the gib had a .3mm shim
That was the last plan for getting the pins out if I couldnt get the slides off, except starting with a dia grinder to get through the case.
Ok pins come out.
Hopefully picking up a Nilfisk tonight for the dust extraction system.
Stuart
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2nd December 2013, 07:04 PM #113.
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How big is the Nilfisk Stu, twin motor?
I have a couple of Nilfisk GM80s, aluminium barreled bodied, single motored. Used one in the shed until the diet of cast iron proved terminal. Pretty gutless and the bags are expensive. I use a noisy powerful 30 litre ShopVac now.
BT
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2nd December 2013, 08:34 PM #114GOLD MEMBER
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Hi BT,
Its a gwd 300 twin motor I believe(though the seller wasnt sure if its twin motor or two speed) came with 4 heads. Hard to work out exactly what it is.
Pin remover has to wait until the DTI crystal maker clears the lathe.
Stuart
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2nd December 2013, 09:41 PM #115SENIOR MEMBER
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- Jul 2011
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- Melbourne Australia
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I'm not deliberiately miss-guilding you. But I think the other Friday, when I dropped in, I'd spoken to the gentelmen that disposed of that. I think he mentioned dust extraction. It was one of those conversations, where I'd rang him in the morning, before I dropped into your place. And got his wife on his phone while he was driving.
I called him back later, when I got back to the ranch, after leaving your place. I think he mentioned arbors, new belt and extraction.
Phil.
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2nd December 2013, 10:13 PM #116GOLD MEMBER
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- Jul 2010
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Hi Phil,
Well that would be great news, the vacuum cleaning was the easy part, will save me a lot of work, and then I'll have a Nilfisk for end end of the shed(coz they are a little painful to move about in my shed lol)
Stuart
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3rd December 2013, 11:34 PM #117GOLD MEMBER
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Well the DTI crystal looks great* but didnt work out so well. It wont hold its shape, in fact it turns itself inside out lol. Either its the wrong Dia, the bevel angle is wrong, it was preformed or all three. But its care of the lathe now so onto the pin removes.
The pins are 5/16 (7.9)
Now I'd like to use an M6 bolt but I'm worried the pin wont be strong enough, but if I use an M5 I'm worried the bolt wont be strong enough.
I'm likely worrying to much, I've designed a puller that uses a M12 bolt so the M5 has no torque on it. I figure if the M5 one breaks I can drill it out and try M6 lol
Stuart
*well maybe not great, its infact in backwards
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4th December 2013, 09:50 PM #118GOLD MEMBER
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Well the pins are out.
Strangly drilling was very slow yet it tapped like butter(so much so I was worried I'd got my sizes wrong).
In the end I was glad I made my "needlessly complicated" pin puller as I was leaning pretty firmly on a 18mm spanner to get one of them to move.
Time to clean up at least some of the mess and think about what comes next.
Stuart
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4th December 2013, 10:50 PM #119
What about holding it in the right position then gently heating it (I'm thinking boiling water or similar) to "fix" the correct shape, or more likely "forget" the wrong shape..
There was something I read recently about materials with memory, like that wire, you can straighten out and it stays there until you heat it a little and it goes back to whatever shape it had previously remembered...
Regards
Ray
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4th December 2013, 11:45 PM #120GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Ray,
I was hoping that with the right size blank and the right angle I wouldnt have to try heat. I'm worried if I'm not careful with the heating and forming things I'll end up with mirage like lensing issues. Certainly be worth a try when I get some time to try it out. It will cost about $0.02 worth of materail if it doesnt work and at least then I'll know if I'm worrying about nothing or not.
Stuart