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Thread: Challenge 2020 - 2021 Picko
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20th November 2020, 10:09 AM #91SENIOR MEMBER
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No progress to report on the plane but I have an admission to make, I started another project while I was stalled and needed to finish it first. In my defence, it gave me some riveting practise for the rivets in the plane, so I'm calling it R & D.
The Bulloak was some left from the plane, the blade was cut from an old panel saw blade, the brass wear strips were from an old tile bar and the other brass (discs and rivets) came from my newly arrived stock.
P1010033.jpg P1010032.jpg
I need to get some photography lessons from Brad.
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20th November 2020, 10:55 AM #92
Your Shame doesn’t look to bad to me Picko,
Actually it looks very good, now a technical question,because I’ve wanted to build a square for ages, but have been single mindlessly,been focusing on my Plane build [emoji6].
How did get your square square,this is the point that’s been holding me back.
Did you just reference of another square,or use a surface plate and dial gauges or something?
Cheers Matt.
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20th November 2020, 11:39 AM #93
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20th November 2020, 01:32 PM #94SENIOR MEMBER
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I used my usual method to get it square Matt, I made it up as I went along. My theory was that the stock and the blade needed to be as parallel as I could get them to start with, and according to my vernier callipers I'm within 1/100th of a mm on both of them. I have a nice old Toledo toolmakers square which has always shown that it was very good so I used it to set up the new one. I had no idea how I could hold them in the right spot and attach the two pieces together so I ended up gluing them with PU glue first, with them clamped square. I checked them when the glue had set and then drilled and riveted them (three rivets through the inlaid discs). I haven't got any fancy measuring equipment but one test I did do which seems a bit more high tech than Pagies old faithful method was to hold the stock in the four jaw chuck on my lathe (stock firmly against the front of the chuck and parallel to the bed and blade propped with a high tech stick to keep it parallel to the bed) and run a dial indicator, held in the tool block ,along the blade. This showed between 1 & 2 hundredths, far closer than any other square in the 'wood' end of my shed.
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20th November 2020, 04:40 PM #95
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20th November 2020, 05:09 PM #96Bushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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20th November 2020, 06:25 PM #97
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20th November 2020, 08:21 PM #98SENIOR MEMBER
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20th November 2020, 08:25 PM #99SENIOR MEMBER
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20th November 2020, 08:29 PM #100SENIOR MEMBER
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20th November 2020, 08:52 PM #101
A master square would work,
Also a cylindrical square on a surface plate would also work,(something I want too make one day[emoji3064])
But now I’m going way out of my comfort zone,
I think for humble wood workers as suggested by Paige and Paul, maybe just the old faithful flip test.
Cheers Matt.
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20th November 2020, 09:38 PM #102SENIOR MEMBER
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21st November 2020, 08:16 AM #103
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21st November 2020, 08:19 AM #104
Mine too [emoji16]
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
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21st November 2020, 08:37 AM #105SENIOR MEMBER
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This discussion "how square is square" is all very interesting, but we are using woodworking tools - not tools with the precision of the lathes, mills , etc demanded by the precision engineering community. Suppose that you are able to measure / mark out your line to a tolerance of +/- 1/10,000 mm or even 1/1,000 mm- what then?
- How many of us are able to measure, cut, plane, etc. to that level of precision using typical woodworking hand tools?
- How many of us have precision saws or planes with which we are able to achieve that level of accuracy?
- And let's not forget the wood-turner - can you get that level of accuracy using handheld chisels, skews or gouges?
I know I can't.
So my question is:
Is there any practical reason to search for a level of precision greater than the "tried and proven" - draw a perpendicular line to an edge, flip the square and check that the line is still perpendicular to the edge? If a difference cannot be seen by the eye, then is it not acceptable to consider that it is "close enough" and proceed to the next task? Job done
(Or is this only an attempt to cover up for my advancing age and declining manual dexterity? )
Cheers,
Bob