New Shed- WIP

[rona]

Hi DJ;JDub; and others,
Have spent the last half hour reading through your developments with the shed.There were some very good points brought out before you got too far down the track, Wall height important because at 2.4 you would have had trouble with your roller door, as the roll takes up 380 mm.
You selected a gable roof with sisilation instead of a skillion like a lot do. Even at 15 degree pitch you will get condensation dripping from the purlins on a cold morning, let alone when there has been a frost. Not sure why you ended up so far from boundary line, in Vic it is legal to build on the boundary line(making sure spouting and downpipes are inside that line). I agree with your comments about roller doors, lucky you didn't have a motor installed, trying to fine tune those is a lot of fun, and also if yoy break or cut the bands before you have them bolted and tensioned you really know you are alive. As someone mentioned you cannot have enough power points or lights. I believe a power point should always be a double and that double addaptors should not be used under any circumstances. I built my first shed ten years ago out of brick (8m x9m) and the extension 12 months ago (8m x 8m) The frame was welded up by my son and it is covered in colourbond. I don't know whether I should mention power points and lights but here goes ............. Power points 28 double 10A, 14 double 15A on 12 circuits. The brick section is the way to go, especially on a hot day probably 10 - 12 degrees cooler.
I should perhaps mention that I was a builder for 12 years and a Trade teacher in the tech system for 25 years before I retired, so there were very little labour costs, I poured the slab, helped the brickie labouring, wired it all under the supervision of the sparky, and purchased all materials, light fittings, roller doors, windows, etc from firms I have dealt with for over 30 years, so the price was more than right, OK I have rattled on for too long, so Joel you and your mates have done an excellent job, I have seen sheds put up 'professionally' and they are a bloody disgrace, One more thing, with the good ladies approval in a few years, you may be able to extend out on the end where the old shed is, which would be excellent.

All the Best fellas,
Regards,
Ron.

[JDub]

Thanks for the comments Ron Your workshop certainly sounds like its well equipt
its hard to tell from the pics but the small shed is actually on a different level to the big one (sits about a foot lower with small concrete barrier around the back of it holding back the soil) so thats why the small shed stayed and the big one wasnt bigger.... it was simply to costly and difficult to get both areas on the same level (involved a lot more excavation and bigger retaining walls etc). I think it will be good anyway to have a separate area for storage and garden crap so it doesnt slowly take up room in the workshop.....


With regards to electrical supply this is what I have done/ am doing....

-5 x double 10A powerpoints on one circuit... given the relatively small size of the shed this means I dont have to go more than about 2m to find a point.
-1 x double 10A point in the old (now garden shed)... maybe on its own circuit too, the power will run from the board in the new shed.
-1 x lighting circuit for the fluros and the outside floodlight.

-I havnt put in any 15A points yet because I dont own anything that requires it... I will get my sparky to leave a spare spot in the sub board in case I need to get a 15A point in the future I think..... or maybe I should just put 1 x 15a point in now even though I may never use it???

Will post some pics of what Ive done so far (electrical) hopefully in the next couple of days....

Cheers
Joel

[TimberNut]

Joel, where the cladding sheets meet the slab, what is there to stop the water running down the outside of the walls, then under and into the shed?

I thought the cladding would come down lower than the top of the slab (ie frame edges would be level with outsides of the slab then cladding come down on the outsides of the slab and lower than the top level?) (see bodgy drawing )

close inspection of your photos it appears that the cladding ends on top of the slab (confused).

[pawnhead]

close inspection of your photos it appears that the cladding ends on top of the slab (confused).

It looks like there's a pre formed flashing there that overhangs the slab a bit, but it doesn't go all the way to the corner.

I'd be more worried about water running down the roller door, and blowing under it. It looks like there's a slight fall to the outside under the door. A small step in the slab, behind the door would have been a good idea.

[Waldo]

I'd be more worried about water running down the roller door, and blowing under it. It looks like there's a slight fall to the outside under the door. A small step in the slab, behind the door would have been a good idea.

G'day JDub,

Or to take Pawnhead's idea, a simpler one may be to fix a length of rubber stripping from Clarke Rubber along the width and on the inside of the r/door to solve what will become a problem when it rains heavy enough. I've seen it done and solve the problem very simply in similar situations used on gates etc.

[JDub]

Joel, where the cladding sheets meet the slab, what is there to stop the water running down the outside of the walls, then under and into the shed?

I thought the cladding would come down lower than the top of the slab (ie frame edges would be level with outsides of the slab then cladding come down on the outsides of the slab and lower than the top level?) (see bodgy drawing )

close inspection of your photos it appears that the cladding ends on top of the slab (confused).

No, the cladding does indeed go down past the slab exactly like you have drawn in your picture, it extends about an inch below the finished level of the slab. It may look like it doesnt as I have put 'vermaseal' plastic edging around the perimetre to stop mice getting in through the gaps created by the wall ribs.

Here is a link to the stuff Im talking about
http://www.shedproducts.com/prod2-vermaseal.html

I will post a pic of it when I put up the pics of the electrical stuff.....

[JDub]

G'day JDub,

Or to take Pawnhead's idea, a simpler one may be to fix a length of rubber stripping from Clarke Rubber along the width and on the inside of the r/door to solve what will become a problem when it rains heavy enough. I've seen it done and solve the problem very simply in similar situations used on gates etc.

the roller door has a weather seal already attached and when closed forms a seal......

[TimberNut]

Joel, a close up picture of that'd be awesome when you can (if you would be so kind...)

thanks.

[rona]

Another way to seal under the door is to put a rebate in the concrete after it is poured and the whirlybird has finished, I put a rebate 100mm wide by 25mm deep under both doors, this along with the rubber seal that is already on the door will not allow any water under at all.In the recent downpour two weeks ago, we had 63mm straight at the door, not a drop inside just run along the rebate and out again.

Cheers,
Ron.

[JDub]

Joel, a close up picture of that'd be awesome when you can (if you would be so kind...)

thanks.

Here ya go Timbernut,

A pic of the outside and inside of the plastic vermaseal edge. It is a pic next to the PA door. The plastic edge sits on top of the slab edge on the inside and extends down and forms a lip on the outside about 25-30mm below the finished edge of the concrete... the sheeting sits on this lip. make sense?

3rd pic is how I ended up mounting the points, thanks for those who gave suggestions in the thread in the electrical forum.... Now if only I get the sparky out

Joel

[JDub]

Had a busy weekend filling up my shed

Last weekend I put in some tall metal shelving bays I scored at a very good price second hand (its not what you know, its who you know ) they are 2.4 high so fit nicely against the 2.7 walls.

I also put up a peg board and moved in power tools..... left all the garden stuff in the other shed so I have plenty of room (although it fills up quick doesnt it ).......

Ahhhhhh, I love my new shed

[RufflyRustic]

Hi JDub,

Glad to see you are having a great time settling in.

Those vermashield pictures are very interesting! Any chance on letting us know what it cost you?

Cheers
Wendy

[JDub]

Hi JDub,

Glad to see you are having a great time settling in.

Those vermashield pictures are very interesting! Any chance on letting us know what it cost you?

Cheers
Wendy

Hi Wendy, wasnt much about $100-$150 for the whole shed.... About $10 a metre I think.

[RufflyRustic]

Brilliant!!! Thanks!

Cheers
Wendy

[TimberNut]

is the vermashield stuck down? siliconed or anything? or is it just put in place then the sheets put in place to hold it there?