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Thread: Brace Fanatics
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2nd November 2015, 05:46 PM #61
Thanks
we rarely get anything of note - people grab grandpa's planes as they are worth something on ebay
get saws but nothing of note
but I did notice 3 or 4 braces there the other day so might just grab them and put them up for sale here or at least show photos on this thread
there is a stanley N0 244 mitre box which I'll probably put up shortly - not a real old one as the compass seems to be etched aluminium but no saw with it unfortunatelyregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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2nd November 2015, 09:07 PM #62
Geoff/Derek
The web site below shows two different types of American Stanley Russell Jennings auger bits. If you click on the pictures you will note that the RJ No.101 has the course thread and it is claimed to be for hard wood and the finer thread(RJ No.100) is for soft wood. This seems to go against what Derek stated earlier, however I agree with you Derek.
http://www.vintagetools.net/product/...101-auger-bits
In my case I have two RJ No.100's with different threads, one fine (American and true to what is depicted in the above mentioned website for soft wood) and the Aussie course thread. The thing to note is that they are both branded as RJ No.100's and not RJ No.101's.
20151102_165053.jpg20151102_165137.jpg
I guess the local Titan brand adopted the thread for the local conditions so Stanley maintained the existing patterns, as Geoff mentioned. Geoff please note all my Aussie Russell Jennings bits are stamped and not inked. I have attached a photo so you can have a look, I have also attached the American one so you can compare.
An interesting point to note is that in my search for the two missing aussie bits I have found a lot of them on American Ebay. It appears that at one stage Stanley was importing either Aussie or English ones into America. This must have been around the time Stanley took over Titan. A good example of this is in the link below. If you look at the bottom of the packet you will note that its made in Australia or England (stamped on the blade). Please also observe the course lead thread.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Stan...gAAOSw37tV90HR
Well I better stop rambling... it has been interesting searching for them and I have learnt a bit on the way! Geoff which one's are you after? I have a couple of spare American ones at home. I'm a member of the TTTG and I penned in the date for the tool sale directly after the last one!... I also started saving for the sale too!
Thanks for the feedback it's been great and I look forward to receiving more.
Cheers
Stewart
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2nd November 2015, 09:28 PM #63
Team
Here is another example of an Aussie made Stanley 32 1/2 set in the box !
http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedi...-bit-409196816
Cheers
Stewart
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3rd November 2015, 01:09 AM #64Try not to be late, but never be early.
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Well Stewart you learn something every day. That's the first I knew of Aussie bits being sold in the USA.
I'll have another look at my RJ bits in the morning and get back to you on that.
As far as the labelling of the 100 & 101 bits on the Vintage Tools site I wonder if they've got them back to front?
I've got a Henry Boker of Germany bit that's got "Iron Bark Tested' on it. Did they take a piece of Iron Bark to Germany or maybe they sent a bloke out into the outback with a brace and a handful of bits.
Cheers,
Geoff.
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3rd November 2015, 05:20 AM #65Senior Member
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Keep in mind that what appears to be a fine thread on an RJ bit is actually a double lead thread and is not all that fine in reality. You may be looking at a double lead and a single lead thread with the same pitch. Here is a link to a test I did comparing single lead Irwins, to Jennings double lead bits.
http://schoolofwood.com/node/74
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3rd November 2015, 10:49 AM #66Try not to be late, but never be early.
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Mike that's a very comprehensive and interesting test, thanks for sharing.
There is a conversation started by Logman headed "Lead screw clogging on new auger" posted in the forum Woodwork - General from July 31 (sorry don't know how to link it to this thread) where I did a fairly simple/inconclusive test using bits with lead screws of 10, 16 and 22 TPI. In light of your comment above, the 22 TPI may well just be a double thread of the 10 TPI.
Stewart, I've posted a photo of the marks on my RJ bits. They are pre Stanley and just have RUSSELL JENNINGS stamped along the shank and on the tang "JENNINGS MFG CO CAST STEEL" and the size in 1/16" increments ie 9 indicating 9/16".
Also posted a photo of a line up of the business ends of Shell, Spoon and Nose bits. The Spoons seem to be relatively scarce, Nose coming second and all far outnumbered by the Shell bits which causes me to wonder if a lot of the Shells are reworked, worn out examples of the other two. R A Salaman (p132) says about the Shell bit "A shallow half-cylindrical body with the nose sharpened on the outside like a Gouge, but sometimes asymmetrically."
Cheers,
Geoff.Last edited by Boringgeoff; 3rd November 2015 at 10:51 AM. Reason: Puncturisation.
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3rd November 2015, 12:45 PM #67There is a conversation started by Logman headed "Lead screw clogging on new auger" posted in the forum Woodwork - General
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=197184
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3rd November 2015, 12:48 PM #68
Go spoon bit ! ...
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3rd November 2015, 05:05 PM #69
Geoff
i dont have a 9/16, but i saw one the other day that matches your photos. I will call into the junk shop and see if its still there. I do have a 5/16 in that style but would want to swap it for an equivalent in the same size, if you need it.
I can send some photos if you are interested?
Cheers stew
drum maker
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3rd November 2015, 08:55 PM #70
Team
if you want to complete some extra reading on old school braces and bits check out this free electronic book. You will note it has a lot of other information about carpentry tools.
http://www.boadicea.com/tools/gutenberg/
Cheers
Stewart
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4th November 2015, 09:31 AM #71Try not to be late, but never be early.
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Stewart,
Thanks for the offer, I've had the RJ box of bits for a few years and am quite happy to pick up replacements where and when they appear.
The shoe maker seems to know what he's doing, thanks Paul.
Cheers,
Geoff
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6th November 2015, 10:35 PM #72
Braces dumped down at the local men's shed
new thread hereregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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15th November 2015, 10:46 AM #73Try not to be late, but never be early.
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John Fray pewter Band Repair.
There have been a few opinions about the original installation and/or repair of damaged Pewter Bands on the handle of John S Fray braces. The handle is the type that was made in two halves and held in position on the frame of the brace by two pewter bands.
I believe that in the factory the bands were slipped over the two halves then compressed either in a press or between rollers.
On the Antique and Collectible Tools and Machines Forum the thread "One for Boringgeoff" at post #14 and 15 have tutorials by Will Myers and Scott Grandstaff on how they cast new pewter rings.
I recently removed a ring from a parts brace by stretching it slightly and transplanting it onto another with a missing ring. I did a write up about it on the HTPS WA website which may be of interest. Go to https://sites.google.com/site/handtoolswa/articles
Cheers,
Geoff.
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15th November 2015, 04:22 PM #74Senior Member
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the last one I did was a band of silver solder flattened to a square and soldered to the brace
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16th November 2015, 08:12 AM #75Try not to be late, but never be early.
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Silver solder would look quite nice, though the grade I've got here is too hard to work with a hammer. Apart from wanting the brace to end up looking as original as possible the band transplant was more an exercise to see how easy/hard it would be to do.