Advice needed for some new projects

[Horsecroft88]

Just a very quick update and one picture. So last night, I sanded back the old finish, using 240 grade and finised off with a light sand using 400 grade, to the edge and top of the table. The legs and underside of the table being finished and ready for the 0000 grade steel wool cutback and wax on wax off with the bees wax polish.

I am reasonably happy with how the top has come up so far, but I will need to cut back with 400 grade paper and then re-shellac the surface. I suspect I might do this a couple more times to see what depth of finish/colour I will get. Hopefully though by the end of the weekend this stage will be complete, and it too will be ready for the final stage....polishing.

Not long now. Then for the next project.

[Lawry01]

Good progress Dave. Are you planning to take back to bare, or just a few more coats of the old shellac, depending on colour/ looks? Lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Lawry, thanks. Yes I too had wondered how best to repolish the top. At this stage I am going to try not to have to strip it completely back to bare wood. I am only doing that, not because I am being lazy but rather as the polish and colour wasn't too bad. The thing was that there were a few deep scratches and other less pleasant marks plus a lot of minor surface scratching. Also the overall feel wasn't as I would normally like, and simply re-waxing wasn't going to cut the mustard.

Hence, I have tried the simple approach of just cutting back the old shellac surface to see if I can get away with re-applying a new shellac coating.

As you would have also seen from the other post re the inclusion of oil to help lubricate and achieve a deeper shine. Well this is a new technique to me, and so given it is not a large or expensive table, I am keen to try this method out. If for what ever reason such techniques don't work out, well I can always strip back to bare wood and start again. Nothing really to loose apart from some time and a little materials, and some further refinement of my skills/experience in this.

I am kind of feeling a little 'grasshopperish" myself in this. Will post more to record how things worked out.

[Lawry01]

Well, I'll be watching with interest re oiling the pad. Might also be a bit grasshopperish when I do my el-cheapo table ! But for now..back to the piano stool! L

[Horsecroft88]

Ok, so over the weekend, I managed to get some more work completed on the table restoration project. Given the discussion regarding true French Polishing vrs padding, I figured I might as well give this a crack to see if I could learn something from this.

That being the case, after cutting back lightly the table top with 400 grade, I made up a new pad and put a few drops of extra virgin olive oil, the theory being that the inclusion of oil should prevent the pad from sticking to the finish (provides a lubricant), as you coat the surface using the figure of 8 application method. I guess the pertinant question is did it work. The truth is I am not sure. The reason I say that is that when I applied shellac to my pad to surface the table top, the first applications seemed to make the surface really dull, rather than what i would have expected, to build up both colour and sheen. As I worked more coats of shellac to the surface this seemed to change.

However, I can't honestly say that the addition of a few drops of oil prevented the pad from sticking as the shellac mix dried. I still find the best thing to do is to cover your surface, working the shellac onto it, then to step back to allow it to properly dry before applying the next coat.

I left it alone after about 1/2 hour of applying coats of shellac. On Sunday, I again cut the top back using 400 grade. I must say the surface did feel ultra smooth. Again I went through the excercise of applying a few drops of oil before shellacing the pad and applying multiple coats over a period of time. That is where the table is now at. I am actually pretty satisfied with the finish, the colour and level of sheen achieved.

What I now need to do is to grab some 0000 steel wool and bees wax polish and to cut back and wax on wax off the entire table. I will let you all know after this stage how it finished up, and whether or not, the addition of the oil was really worth it. The one thing I did find is that there was absolutely no need to have to wipe off any oil (as had been suggested I would). It seems to have been included into the finish.

Perhaps my skills in this slight modification to the finish application process are not that great yet. Might have to see with another project I have to do, as to whether or not this really works.

I will post the latest pics of the table (not great photos), and I am not really sure they show much difference from my last ones. My guess is that once I have cut back and waxed the table, is when a real difference in the finish will be noticeable.

[Lawry01]

Dave...well done for having a go at this additional technique. Perhaps WW has some wisdom to add to your experience of it, but I also think that your years of experience using shellac have resulted in a lovely patina- full finish on the table. I do recall my first attempts at making a pad (on the desk) - a rather messy attempt at that, and I was never sure just how much shellac was actually being applied (hence my return to the brush) Anyway.looking forward to the post-wax look! lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Lawry, thanks for I thought it sounded intriguing and well worth the experiment. As I said this new additional step is something I hadn't tried before. Not even sure I was aware of it, hmn so much for my experience perhaps But anyway, at least it didn't seem to stuff things up. I agree, someone like WW with his considerable knowledge and experience over mine, or others might have some good advice, in case I wasn't working the pad correctly or something.

Thanks I am pretty comfortable in the way I have been polishing, and for certain have gained a level of experience, so yes can do a 1/2 reasonable job. Personally and not in the slightest a case of pumping up my own tyres, I have seen some "professionally" restored pieces, let alone antiques etc in shops with far poorer presented finishes than I have achieved. I guess perhaps there is the old equation of time = money and therefore it is not cost effective to pay for the extra work in doing the job correctly. As I am mostly restoring for my ownself or the other half, I don't have this pressure. Well that is apart from "get on with the house restoration please !!!"

I know what you mean re the first few times you make/use a pad and hence using a brush is far easier. I still use a brush for a lot of work, ie. joinery (architraves, skirtings, doors, mantles, let alone table legs etc, but with experience I have found making/using a pad for flat surfaces can result in a higher quality finish. It often also comes down to what you also want. Sometimes, the higer end finish (fine and more glossy) actually is not required/appropriate. Hence, in such occasions I will do less to get something finished with a slightly more coarse a finish and duller appearance.

Me too mate, I also look forward to its finish and will post some more pictures.

[Horsecroft88]

Hey guys, yay the table is finished. After a day out at the country place working on the fireplace, after dinner tonight I cut the finish back with 0000 grade steel wool and then for the bees wax polish. Finally after buffing off it is all done. Will post pics off the iPhone on Monday. Bottle of 2010 Bordeaux chateaux haut Cormier and glass filled in celebration. Must admit it feels good to have this project completed. Now for the next one.

[Lawry01]

Hey guys, yay the table is finished. After a day out at the country place working on the fireplace, after dinner tonight I cut the finish back with 0000 grade steel wool and then for the bees wax polish. Finally after buffing off it is all done. Will post pics off the iPhone on Monday. Bottle of 2010 Bordeaux chateaux haut Cormier and glass filled in celebration. Must admit it feels good to have this project completed. Now for the next one.

Well done Dave..looking forwad to the pictures. If theres a drop or two of the Bordeaux remaining, I reckon its worth my while flying down to join you!!!! Celebrations are best shared. Maybe one day mate! So..its onto the next poroject then? And I need to get cracking on the stool and table as well. Need to get some webbing etc.

Meantime, enjoy the fruits of your labour (and the vine!) You need a good cigar to go with it..I can supply!! lawry

[Horsecroft88]

Well done Dave..looking forwad to the pictures. If theres a drop or two of the Bordeaux remaining, I reckon its worth my while flying down to join you!!!! Celebrations are best shared. Maybe one day mate! So..its onto the next poroject then? And I need to get cracking on the stool and table as well. Need to get some webbing etc.

Meantime, enjoy the fruits of your labour (and the vine!) You need a good cigar to go with it..I can supply!! lawry

Thank mate. Righto Lawry,you are on, bring the cigars and I can supply the Bordeaux or even a decent Aussie drop. The cellar is looking pretty healthy right now .

Tasted an absolutely fabulous wine last Friday night, a 2007 Schild Estate Limited Reserve Shiraz (Moorooroo). I know wierd name but I think possibly the best red wine I have tasted in the last 2-5 years, outside of Penfolds Grange etc. Costs a bit ($85) but not as pricy as Grange, Henscheke Hill of Grace etc. So I had to buy a bottle for the cellar (was slightly discounted at $78 !!), only to find when I got home I already had a 2003 of the same wine (a present from someone ??). I digress.

I know what you mean re sharing in the celebrations, regrettably it was done flying solo, as the other half was studying (she is 2nd year nurse training, and has an interview for a possie in Sydney this Thursday).

Anyway, so there I was the table looking and feeling silky smooth, and feeling pretty pleased with myself. The table is now in the "good room" with the other good pieces, so that the cats can't get at it and scratch them. Pics below of the finished table, though I must admit I don't think they do the table justice. She was happy though with it.

Next project to get on with will be to sort out the dresser top, so I need some paint stripper and coarse steel wool to clean that up.

Look forward to seeing the progress on both of your projects. All the best, cheers Dave

[Horsecroft88]

Two more pics, sorry re the sideways photos, sometimes despite trying to sort out the rotation it still doesn't seem to save it correctly. Bit puzzled by that. Ditto the photo quality is a bit iffy, even though the phone is supposed to have a half decent camera. Should probably use the digi camera in future for this sort of thing.

[Horsecroft88]

I think it is time to revive my thread on the various furniture restoration/re-polish projects I have currently to get on with.

So following on from the success I managed to achieve with the tilt top table for the other half, this time it is one of my own pieces. Some years ago, my builder asked me to store an early kitchen dresser top he had managed to acquire from the Port Arthur area. It was painted and though impressive looked tired. It sat in the lock up garage I have rented for many a year where I store 2 of my Italian classic sportscars. I never did anything with it, neither did he ask about it, or seek to have it back.

A little while ago he admitted he was unlikely ever to get around restoring it and so wondered if I might like it/could use it. The simple answer was a yes to both questions. A mutually agreeable price was reached, suffice to say I don't think it was expensive. I have a huon pine dresser base, which I previously had restored, which is missing its top. Hence the need.

So I managed to finally drag the top home, and yes it is bloody heavy. But what timber is it made from, I hazarded a guess, given the back boards are not painted on the rear as NZ Kauri.

I know I have posted a few pics of it, previously in this thread but I will post again, and of the paint stripping process. Firstly I had to heat gun off all the paint. I hate that part of the job, but it is a necessary evil. Then comes the even more yuckky part, stripping off the residual paint muck with paint stripper and coarse grade steel wool. So this is where I am up to now, as I have started on this part of the process, the two sides and the top have been cleaned up, ditto I have mostly cleaned up the top shelf.

The answer to the wood species is yes Kauri. I even started a little ahead of myself last night, while paint stripping, to lightly sand back with 240 and 400 grade and thereafter put the first guide coats of shellac on the LHS, to see how well the colour of the wood and grain will come up. Needless to say, I am going to be happy. But plenty of work to do yet before that stage. Plus I have one minor repair to do, as a small section of one of the back boards is broken and missing.

I was thinking if i can somehow sqare it up I might be able to insert/glue a piece. Only one minor issue, I don't think I have any kauri, or of the thickness required. Options probably will be either a piece of baltic or alternatively a fillet of Huon (if I can cut a piece down). Will have to see when I get to that stage.

Pictures of progress attached.

[burraboy]

I'd be tempted to leave it.

[Chief012]

What thickness is it?

I picked up what was left behind by the termites of a hoop/kauri staircase from an old house here in Newcastle. Would be happy to send you a piece. I dont think that small piece would tax my stock to heavily!

[Horsecroft88]

Hi Chief, I am not sure, would hazard a guess at say around 5mm or so thick and length 10-15cm, width perhaps around 30mm. I will measure the missing area tonight once home and thereafter can let you know.

If it is possible I would very much appreciate it. I can understand what you are saying Burra, but yet I kind of like the idea of trying to repair the minor damage. If I can effect it well, I just think it will look a little better.

I am also going to have to think about how to mount the top to the dresser base, as the one I have doesn't have the normal cutouts to which you would screw the sides of the top to, if you know what i mean. I had wondered if I might be able to make a base plate/trim which I can screw the top to the base by.

I will post a few pics of the dresser base. It currently has another top on it, but it is too small (cut down) and out of proportion. I will probably attach this top to the wall out at the country place. I previously restored this, having bought it from, yes Gordon Brown of Collectors fame. It was painted pink, and a complete wreck. It turned out to be Huon pine. Thankfully I didn't pay much for it. See pics of it as bought.