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Thread: Four new saws (hmm 60+ yo maybe)
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15th February 2014, 04:22 PM #61
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15th February 2014, 05:28 PM #62
Paul
I have started a new thread as I was about to steal Nick's thunder. However, I am very grateful to Nick for kicking this one away in the first place and will follow it eagerly.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...43#post1747843
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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15th February 2014, 08:29 PM #63
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15th February 2014, 09:33 PM #64
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17th February 2014, 03:37 PM #65
Saw #7 - Disston 76 Centennial?
Paul earlier indicated this might be a no 76 Centennial (post no 60)
I had arrived at a similar conclusion (but then what would I know) (post no 56, hmm a typo 76 not 86)
and I was a bit unsure because of this comment from the distonian website "The No. 76 was sold until about 1920. It's not nearly so commonly found as the No. 7, D-8, or even the No. 12 models."
Not commonly found and I pick one up in an ebay purchase, yeah right
Anyway I thought I'd have a closer look at it today
Then I decided that because of the rust I'd better give it a clean (and if it is a bit rare didn't want it to deteriorate any further)
I've only used sandpaper and WD-40 at the moment, started with 400, used 320 in places. There is still a bit of work t do on it.
Took the handle off no problems but I did notice that the sawnuts were different sizes, hmmm
The top nut is smaller then the others. It looks similar but has a smaller diameter. 12.28mm compared to 14.75mm (31/64" as to 37/64")
The nut for the medallion is the same size as that of the two larger nuts.
I've taken a photograph of the tote. The medallion seems to be sitting on the timber and not sitting in the recess (don't know what to make of this)
#7 tote_4324.jpg#7 tote_4326.jpg#7 nuts_4318.jpgSaw no7 Disston & Sons_3654.jpgoriginal handle photo for comparision etc purposes
The clean picked up an etch which surprised me as I could see any indication of one before. It is difficult to see, I've taken a couple of piccies to give you an idea
I think I can see a 76 there (but could be having a lend of myself)
#7 etch contrast_4310.jpg#7 etch_4300.jpg#7 etch_4303.jpg
The clean disclosed some pitting, quite bad in places. And of course the reverse side is better than the etch side.
#7 1st clean_4311.jpg#7 1st clean_4315.jpg
Looking at the rust marks I think the saw may have been wrapped in plastic at some stage and water got in and was held there.regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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17th February 2014, 09:46 PM #66
The differences between saws can be subtle ... the more you get an eye for the differences, the better your chances.
I think I can see a 76 there (but could be having a lend of myself)
But it sold in the $70-80 region because myself and someone else had seen what it was.
I didn't win it either.
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18th February 2014, 08:15 AM #67
Paul
Sorry on re-reading my post it looks like I was having a dig at you
Na, not the case.
More a dig at life in that I half expect Murphy to enter triumphant and show that the saw is a bitzer and cobbled together from spare parts to confuse the unwary I'm not generally lucky with this kind of thing,
So you can see the 76 as well, good
So I'll put it up on fleabay and hope you and your mate start a bidding war over itregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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18th February 2014, 09:42 AM #68
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21st February 2014, 08:07 AM #69
I have finally reached the end of the Lumberjocks thread "Saws, using collecting, cleaning and buying" as alluded to in post number 14
only took 20 days - trouble is that it only got longer as I went
There is one hell of a lot of information in the thread (and a few digressions) and I think my saw knowledge has increased exponentially (starting from an admittedly low base)
anyway have a read it was an interesting exercise.regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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21st February 2014, 08:59 AM #70
Paul
Paul
My humble apologies. Somehow I missed this post, but what a beauty it is. As if saw sharpening hasn't already been done to death this question has opened up another can of worms.
This link of yours to Brent Beach is particularly illuminating
http://www3.telus.net/BrentBeach/saw...20gullets.html
I think your assertion that the advent of machine sharpening may have killed off the sloped gullet could well be on the money. And money would have been the key as labour had started to become expensive and the easiest way to cut cost was to dispense with people. (We are still doing it in 2014).
I suspect you could open another new thread on this subject, but I'll leave it to you.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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21st February 2014, 09:08 AM #71
Paul
Just on this particular point I wonder if slope isn't more important. I have two reasons for mentioning this. The first is that if we cut a thick section of timber we tend to adjust the angle of the saw so it cuts more efficiently. Intuitively we are correcting for the saw "loading" up (more teeth in the cut) and probably clogging with extra sawdust. Secondly, I saw a reference in your link to sloped gullets having a particular application for mitre box saws. In that case it would be a fine tooth saw in contact with a wide timber surface.
Perhaps more need for efficient chip removal. In theory I can see this. To my mind a big question is whether this is detectable in practice.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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21st February 2014, 09:11 AM #72
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21st February 2014, 12:32 PM #73
Yep, thanks
in a sense I watched it before he made it
here's a link to his blog on it if anyone's curious - the video link is down towards the bottom of the blog
Get supplies in as it goes for more than 2 1/4 hours
It is very informative and highly interesting and quite well doneregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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24th February 2014, 05:08 PM #74
Just tried that on the 76 (#7)
didn't want to force it too much but got it open enough to work some glue in with a brush
clamped up at the moment will see how it holds come tomorrow
The handle is pretty knocked about but since it's probably original and a rarish saw I'll give it a light sand
what is the recommended finish
I see Andy Brit or (Brit*al) uses BLO and then a 2:1:1 (oil based varnish, BLO, turps) mix over the top a couple of times
what do others use?
Or what should I use on this old, presumably, apple?regards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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24th February 2014, 05:21 PM #75
I have the same question? In fact the bare apple is a rather bland finish. Did the likes of Disston apply stain or did they rely on the surface treatment (BLO, other oils, wax etc) imparting the colour?
The problem I see is the original handle gives no room to test the finish short of using an old, similar-timbered, sacrificial handle.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"