Thanks: 3
Likes: 113
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 7
Results 61 to 75 of 79
Thread: Challenge 2020 -2021 MountainAsh
-
9th October 2020, 06:23 PM #61GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,845
-
9th October 2020, 06:33 PM #62GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,845
Aww shucks Paul. I will get a better tablecloth for final photos, more retro and more embroidered I hope. Thanks, I have spent more time tuning the meeting surfaces on this plane than I wanted to. Every time I thought "that will do" I was wrong! Well until the last time I suppose . The depth stop can still pivot if I drive the wedge in hard enough. Things are almost right
-
9th October 2020, 06:36 PM #63
-
9th October 2020, 06:42 PM #64GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,845
Thanks CK. That's possibly an advantage of getting in first. I always try to make tools functional first but aesthetically pleasing too. And they must feel good in my hands. I had to remake the wedge (as I changed the abutment angle on the depth adjuster) and it ended up a little taller. Serendipitous maybe, at least I got a chance to make up for my first mistake with the forstner bit.
-
9th October 2020, 07:24 PM #65
So far out of all the completed planes yours is definitely in the top ten
You can afford to take a break now and allow some lesser mortals to catch upNothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
-
9th October 2020, 09:10 PM #66GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,845
-
10th October 2020, 10:30 AM #67
I googled a few other planes made from this design and I honestly think yours looks the best. Even a tad nicer than Gakos' version. I especially like your wedge design. It somehow appeals to me the most from the ones I found out there.
Obviously that is subjective.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
-
10th October 2020, 12:24 PM #68GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,845
Thanks CK. It's funny that the wedge did turn out so nice because the main reason for drilling the large round section was that I was trying to avoid all the lumpy "slag(?)" from where the nut was welded to the chip breaker. I have a Madra coffin smoother and it's wedge is somewhat similar, serving as inspiration. Lining up the "prongs" of the wedge with the sides of the depth adjuster helps make the design look even more intentional. Hopefully I get some time today to sharpen the blade and see how good it is. As you know I am a fan of our Polish friend so your comparison is very flattering. Thanks again.
-
11th October 2020, 11:24 PM #69GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,845
Well, the good news is........it works !!!!
Blade was sharpened up today, hollow ground first to 30°
20201011_115056.jpg
And then honed on 800, 1200 and 6000 waterstones. And then stropped, apparently using the "Sellars" method.
20201011_115748.jpg
Now nothing was stopping me from testing it out. Oh yes there was, the chip breaker was rocking on the blade. Solution was a tap from my ball pein hammer on both the CB and on the blade. The "Simplicity" method I believe . Final grind to CB leading edge and I was good to go.
First trial was on some cedar that was destined for greater things than a test piece but it was close by and I was keen to see if all my efforts were worth it. And they were .......but it will take getting used to.
I assumed that the design of the base would make it self centering but it's not. I found that the best way to plane a consistent chamfer was to use one angled side of the base to run along the face. And the funny thing was that the plane seems to "bottom out" before the other side of the base comes in contact with the planed boards edge. I don't know if I'm mucking up something basic or I just need to familiarise myself with it better. The pivoting nature of the depth stop may not be as big of a problem as I thought (glad I spent so much time trying to minimise it).
Finished off by ragging on my usual finish (equal parts BLO, Mineral Turpentine oil and Cabot's clear).
20201011_132553.jpg
I will have to take final photos asap and photos of the chamfering.
-
11th October 2020, 11:32 PM #70
That's great. Can't wait to see final fotos and shavings.
Great to see a finished product.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
-
11th October 2020, 11:42 PM #71GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,845
Thanks CK. Me too
-
12th October 2020, 07:15 AM #72
That looks fantastic MA,
I’m sure your very happy with it, and I’m also sure you will conquer the learning curve of using it.
Is there any immediate plans to use it on, or was it just a case of that would be fun to build?.
Can’t wait to see some shaving.
Cheers Matt.
-
12th October 2020, 07:55 AM #73SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Location
- Mt Waverley Vic 3149
- Age
- 81
- Posts
- 354
Congratulations, a working plane - WOW
Cheers
Bob
-
12th October 2020, 08:27 AM #74GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,845
Thanks Matt and Bob. The idea for a chamfer plane was probably prompted by meanderings through Pinterest and definitely encouraged by Stavros Gakos' YouTube channel. My hope was to make a tool that I could use to create chamfers on the planes I was already making (I'm sure there is some irony there). As many have probably worked out, I have a soft spot for wooden planes and I felt that this competition would need something more complex than a moulding plane (which when I first made one I thought was pretty complex as well). I also thought that it might come in handyfor larger chamfers in more decorative joinery work. And it mept me busy during our current restrictions
-
12th October 2020, 06:40 PM #75GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Oct 2018
- Location
- Dandenong Ranges
- Posts
- 1,845
Hi all. Spent a little time using the plane today. Trying to improve the evenness of the chamfer planed. I was finding it too easy to dig in at the beginning and end of the cut. Also trying to get my head around the relationship between the front and rear 90° shape of the base. The front could only have one side or the other touching the wood but at the rear both sides rode evenly. This might explain why the chamfer left on the wood is not the same size as the amount of blade exposed. And by accident I found that planing with diagonally opposite ends riding the wood (and switching between them) gave me the neatest profile.
20201012_163038.jpg
I think I'm done.
"Boy that brass hammer looks nice "