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26th April 2020, 05:54 PM #46
You can cut and weld steel Charlie ?
And your keeping the drive wheel and fitting a flat belt is that right ? I’ve been thinking of what you want to do and also how you could mount the motor . Are you intending on just bolting the motor down and adjusting tension at that point ? Or having an adjustable mount which I think is better . Specially with a flat belt . One that is easy to adjust tension . I did a steel one for a faceplate lathe I made . Just the motor weight hanging on its hinge provided tension . It worked good .
Rob
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26th April 2020, 07:15 PM #47
I like that too. Better than the one I posted.
I am guessing that you are concerned you cannot lift even one side of an 800Kg machine.
So how about using a small automotive trolley jack for the lift.
Hydraulic trolley jack.jpg
This one was just over $55 plus freight and was about the first one I saw, but I think you could pick up something second hand for a lot less. Maybe even new for a lot less
2 Ton Hydraulic Trolley Floor Jack Car Dual Pump Quick Lifting NEW | eBay
A metal ( angle iron or RHS ) or substantial timber frame around the foot of the machine will suffice and be a permanent base and very stable as the wheels will not be in ground contact when not required. Just make sure the wheels are load rated appropriately.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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27th April 2020, 09:19 AM #48
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27th April 2020, 10:23 AM #49
Vann
The pallet jack is a very good option. The jacks start at less than $300 on Ebay, and although shipping can be an issue Charlie is in a city so it will not be too expensive or even local pick up could be a possibility. The beauty of your suggestion is that two bearers under each machine (100mm x 100mm ?) and one pallet jack serves them all. Difficult to go past that really. My suggestion would really only be more practical if a single machine was being considered.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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27th April 2020, 12:18 PM #50SENIOR MEMBER
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I've got to give it a bit of thought. By far the most stable solution is for it to sit on bearers. I've got a pallet jack I bought for $100 second hand. It's paid for itself as I've used it for moving 4 x 500kg+ saws already
The pallet jack advantages are:
- Cheap (the actual costs of it + no need to buy castors for each machine)
- Its efficient - I can pump the hydraulics and have a machine in the air in 5sec. Self levelling feet would take me 5mins+ to adjust them to set a moved saw up, not a deal breaker I have time and am just a guy with a hobby.
- It's got a handle to hang on to for manoeuvring and don't need to fight a machine by handling it from the table top or elsewhere
- Bearers will make a very stable base, hardwood posts are cheap to buy at Bunnings
The pallet jack disadvantages are:
- Size of pallet jack is bulky, it needs room to move. I only have a double shed. If I have two or three machines lined up next to each other I have to to move the first machine out of the way to get to the others if wanting to move them. IF they are on swivelling castors I can just lower it onto the castors and pull it directly out any which way.
- Two x fixed wheels on fork - not a big deal as the back wheel can turn to a 90° but still a bit of ginning around to manoeuvre.
- 4 x bearers aren't going to look great (personal preference)
- Metal on metal - I had a small scare (on a hill - my driveway) when a wheel hit a bark chip and came to a stop, the saw took a short little slide on the forks.
- The forks are a set width - hasn't been a major issue as the saws have spanned the gap in the middle. I do have a small Wolfenden saw which I can't use the jack on as the base is too narrow.
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27th April 2020, 01:24 PM #51
You have one already ! That’s a good start . I have the same problem of some machines not fitting the span of the bearers and it’s a bit more playing around getting it to work . Most of my machines are still on loose bearers . My small bandsaw is in fixed ones that don’t fit the PJ . What I did for one of My EQ moulders is I made a custom pallet that matches the base of the machine . It’s a good neat way of doing it .
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27th April 2020, 03:48 PM #52
This is a little custom pallet I did for for the EQ . I need 80mm for the PJ to fit under. Its just a quick nailed up thing but steel and a ply top would work .
IMG_9454.JPGIMG_9456.JPGIMG_9457.JPG
And this is a motor mount I did for a lathe. Just a bit of cutting drilling and welding . I was going to add a screw to hold it at the right tension but the weight of the motor was good enough.
IMG_0609.jpg
Rob
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28th April 2020, 01:29 PM #53SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Rob, I don't have any real welding experience worth notting but my father does. Finding a flat belt pulley will pose an issue. I think I'll stick with the current 3 x V-groove pulley for the immediate future. I do like the thinking around an adjustable tensioner. I've not thought that far ahead however but does sound appealing.
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28th April 2020, 01:41 PM #54SENIOR MEMBER
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This was never going to be easy. At every step I seem to have a challenge on my hands. Everything thats connected to some sort of a shaft is seized on! This pulley is about 270mm in diameter. Not sure if I can jury rig a gear puller to get this off ?!?!?!
20200427_185742_resized.jpg
And then there is this mammoth square nut thats also stuck!
20200426_113137_resized.jpg
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28th April 2020, 06:42 PM #55
I sympathise with the puller. I lack one and had to leave both bandsaw wheels on their shafts.
That should be an easy job. Penetrating oil on the thread for a couple of days (looks like you may have applied some to the front of the nut, but the back looks dry). Then some heat on the nut, a big spanner, and use the wheel for leverage...
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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28th April 2020, 08:55 PM #56SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Vann - thats exactly what I did once it gave way I could use my fingers to screw off. I also managed to to get the pulley 3/4 of the way off by using some F-clamps that lucky where able to fit into the right position and act as a gear puller .. sort of! I ran out of time but hope to squeeze in 30mins tomorrow to hopefully remove the shaft/bearings which means I am left with a completely stripped frame ready for prepping.
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30th April 2020, 08:21 PM #57SENIOR MEMBER
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I've pulled the pulley & freewheel pulley off and thats about as far as I'll go in stripping it down.
20200430_173817_resized.jpg
20200430_173839_resized.jpg
There is this wax paper gasket between the hub and where the freewheel spins. It's looking fairly buggered - anyone know what this stuff is and if you can get it anywhere?
20200430_173929_resized.jpg
There is still this assembly that holds the shaft. I doubt I'll be able to get it out so will leave it on if I don't need to remove it, which I don't think I do.
20200430_174955_resized.jpg
20200430_175006_resized.jpg
I can't see that I can pull this shaft out...
20200430_175053_resized.jpg
20200430_175110_resized.jpg
... but if i pull this bearing apart I should be able to get it out through the hole on the right hand side.
20200430_191419_resized.jpg
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2nd May 2020, 02:10 PM #58SENIOR MEMBER
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I'm curious to know, can I replace these self aligning bearings with sealed bearings? They don't seem to show wear BUT would be a heap cleaner and wouldn't ever have to worry about greasing again
I found out what that paper gasket is called also - Its 'Oil Jointing General Purpose Gasket Paper' it's cheap as chips per 1m².
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2nd May 2020, 04:52 PM #59
You could most likely get away with sealed bearings. Even if they were ever so slightly out of alignment - with the amount of use you'll give it (I'm assuming it's for recreational use) they would probably outlive you. Personally, I'd look for self-aligning (but then I'm a bit anal sometimes ).
The grease in sealed bearings is said to be good for 20 years.
I don't have a problem with open bearings - I think regularly maintaining machines is a good habit to get into - except in electric motors where old grease is expelled into the windings.
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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3rd May 2020, 07:27 AM #60SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Vann, given that the bearings don't seem to be worn I may keep them. It does help to keep stuff from any sort of corossion (not I would expose this saw to the kind of abuse its seen in a past life).
Do machines just take general purpose automotive grease?