Thanks: 1
Likes: 15
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 46 to 60 of 115
Thread: New Lathe Part 2
-
31st May 2014, 08:31 PM #461915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
-
31st May 2014, 09:06 PM #47Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 3,148
Dean, I just happen to have one in the shed - looks in new condition. Do you want it? The large ball is around 28mm diameter, the small ball 19mm diameter and it is 88mm ball centre to ball centre. I can even ream and broach a keyway into it if you like (it is missing the handle, but has been designed to balance with a handle around 2 1/2" long and a bit over 1/2" diameter)
Michael
-
31st May 2014, 09:44 PM #48
-
31st May 2014, 09:56 PM #49Philomath in training
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
- Location
- Adelaide
- Age
- 59
- Posts
- 3,148
Haven't got to the red yet. I like an occasion to open bottles (like "I fancy a drop"...)
The bore is just a 5mm pilot at the moment so can be what ever you like (the flat area is diameter 16 and the middle ball is 22mm)
P1020355 (Medium).JPG
Michael
-
31st May 2014, 10:04 PM #50
-
2nd June 2014, 12:28 AM #51
I took it easy today as it was the last day before going back to work after a weeks holiday.
I wanted to remove the timber from underneath the lathe and lower it to the floor. First I had to rework the machine jack.
Machine Jack 5.jpg
This picture is the jack as it was before.
Machine Jack Reworked.jpg
This is after I reworked it. The curved metal piece was milled flat and reduced in depth as per the top red arrow. A flat 8mm thick length of steel now sits between the lifting leg and the jack body. The lifting leg slides on this. I milled a recess into the back of this plate to fit around the base of the jack body (Blue arrow) and a slot which is visible as shown by the lower red arrow, to allow the bottom edge to rest on the base of the jack inside the slight ridge on the edge of the flat jack base. This stops the metal strip from moving. I want to have a method of holding this strip on as it tends to fall out when moving the jack. I was thinking of a long spring which goes around the body and connects to each side of the metal strip.
Edge of Base.jpg
Previously I had a bolt in one of the holes shown in the first picture. This was needed when lifting the Nuttall as the base looked like this.
There was nothing to support the top of the jack and it tipped towards the lathe. The CY however has flat sides on its base and does not need a bolt.
I have managed to get the timber out from under it, which was a tricky job. It is now resting on individual wooden blocks. I decided to call it a day once I had got it this far. It is now a simple job to lower it to the floor and to raise it again to fit the skates underneath. The jack worked perfectly. I am happy with this design except for the retaining of the metal strip.
Dean
-
2nd June 2014, 12:36 AM #52
Why don't you make it a bit wider (or weld short strips on the side at the bottom) and weld its corners to the base - outside the jack base. That way you can still take the kjack out and the plate can still lean against the jack body in use. The plate just doesn't fall of any more....
Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
-
2nd June 2014, 01:00 AM #53
I could do that Joe. It seems to me tho, that this would increase the size by a considerable margin. I did have the base stored on top of an antique tool box from my father, that only provided a couple of inches of height for storage. The metal strip is 180mm high. This would add about 174mm to the height, even once the unit is dismantled (jack removed). The jack serves a number of purposes including the wheel changing jack for our ute at this point in time. I also want to avoid issues with storage. The footprint of the bottom of the steel strip is only around 4mm x 9mm. This does not give much size for strength. I also only have about 4mm of thickness at the front of the cast base before it impedes the foot base. It is certainly possible, but I feel it will be too weak, and likely to get broken. This is on top of the fact that it will be much harder to find storage space for. This is an issue of concern for me at the moment. I need more space.
Dean
-
2nd June 2014, 07:44 PM #54
-
2nd June 2014, 07:56 PM #55Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
-
2nd June 2014, 10:40 PM #56
-
7th June 2014, 07:19 PM #57
I finished the skates today.
Skate Components.jpgSkates Completed.jpg
I have moved the lathe into a better position (I hope). Now I will have room for the shaper in the shed. Be good to get it off the verandah, although as the dreaded "condensation season" is back again, I doubt it will help to protect it from rust. Maybe I should cover it with plastic?
Once these are in position I will paint the skates. Green. They worked quite well although the lathe did not roll easily, not that I expected to be able to push it by hand. With the skates from work and a good surface it should be possible to push it. I missed out on both counts tho.
I did quite a bit of work on these bits with the lathe. I faced and trued the OD using the feed. I have that worked out now. I faced from the inside out, as that is the way the cross feed works when OD turning towards the chuck. Maybe I could turn the OD from the chuck out? Is there any reason why this should not be done?
I mounted an upside down chamfer tool (HSS) in the rear toolpost so I could face and chamfer the axles in one step.
Another job finished.
Dean
-
7th June 2014, 11:40 PM #58Cheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
-
8th June 2014, 11:33 AM #59
Thats right Joe. Without the jack this base would have this strip sticking up in the air and it would only be held on by a very small amount of weld. Probably one of the resident possums that keep knocking stuff on the floor, would break it.
Having said that however, up until now this arrangement has worked fine, but yesterday the strip started sliding up with the jack leg. That is not part of the plan. Rather than weld the strip on, I think I might weld pins out the sides of the strip at the bottom and have hooks to catch these that are welded to the base plate. That way the strip can just come off when the jack is not on the base. The jack is currently doing service in our ute as it did not come with one so it is only used in the shed when needed.
Cheers
Dean
-
8th June 2014, 12:34 PM #60GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2010
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 7,770
Hi Dean,
Is the lifting arm threaded or does it just slide over the top of the jack?
You could cut a door hinge in half and weld either side of the jack.
Stuart