Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 46 to 60 of 66

Thread: Lacquer

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Shed View Post
    Sorry, have to disagree with your description of "lacquer".

    First of all, it is in fairly common use throughout the English speaking world, including here in Australia.

    It describes a finish that dries by solvent evaporation, not oxidisation (rules out most oil based finishes) or cross linking.

    See here

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer
    I think garym,who started the post might disagree as seemingly no one he has spoken too knows what "Lacquer" is although not surprised staff in Bunning's haven't a clue.
    The wiki article clarifies things to a degree but in essence it is anything derived from the Lac beetle,which is basically shellac or french polish.
    Most people using the term Lacquer generally have no idea of it's exact meaning of it as there is no actual product.
    I have been a furniture restorer and cabinet maker for 25 years in England and latterly Australia and have very rarely heard the term used except by people who are not furniture makers.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    4,565

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mark david View Post
    I have been a furniture restorer and cabinet maker for 25 years in England and latterly Australia and have very rarely heard the term used except by people who are not furniture makers.
    I have been a Paint Chemist for most of my working life, worked in Europe, UK, US and Australia.
    So not only did I use lacquers, I actually formulated them and know intimately what makes a lacquer.

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Good for you.but that is not what we are talking about.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    4,565

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mark david View Post
    Good for you.but that is not what we are talking about.

    Excuse me?

    The title of this thread is "lacquer", you gave an explanation of that term and subsequently backed it up with your qualifications, a furniture restorer of some 25 years experience.

    I replied with my qualifications, I am not entitled to either express an explanation of the term lacquer, based on extensive experience in the paint industry, nor to back that up with my qualifications, as you did?

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Newport, Sydney
    Posts
    81

    Default

    Never heard of lacquer ? Interesting.
    No nitrocellulose lacquers?
    No acid catalysed lacquers ?
    No lacquer thinners?
    Hmmmmm! Interesting!
    Pete

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete View Post
    Never heard of lacquer ? Interesting.
    No nitrocellulose lacquers?
    No acid catalysed lacquers ?
    No lacquer thinners?
    Hmmmmm! Interesting!
    Pete
    Yes Pete have heard of all of these things but If I go to a paint shop shop and ask for a litre tin of lacquer what would be the reply ?
    If I wanted to buy some jarrah from a timber merchant wouldn't just ask for some wood ?

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Shed View Post
    Excuse me?

    The title of this thread is "lacquer", you gave an explanation of that term and subsequently backed it up with your qualifications, a furniture restorer of some 25 years experience.

    I replied with my qualifications, I am not entitled to either express an explanation of the term lacquer, based on extensive experience in the paint industry, nor to back that up with my qualifications, as you did?
    Yes you are entitled but you didn't bother to do that you just stuck in a Wicki link.Which is utterly ambiguous anyway.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    4,565

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Big Shed View Post
    Sorry, have to disagree with your description of "lacquer".

    First of all, it is in fairly common use throughout the English speaking world, including here in Australia.

    It describes a finish that dries by solvent evaporation, not oxidisation (rules out most oil based finishes) or cross linking.

    See here

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lacquer

    You obviously didn't read this before you quoted it

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    510

    Default

    Wattyl Trade Store Wollongong, ask for Stylwood Lacquer and tell them what gloss level you want.

  10. #55
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    0

    Default

    One thing that can be taken away from this thread is....... don't expect to find anything specialised or high end at a hardware shop....... or for that matter at a suburban paint shop.

    That goes right across the board ..... they are high volume RETAIL stores, don't expect anything obscure.

    Also don't expect any sort of competent advice on anything at a major chain hardware ...... 9 out of 10 they just don't know.

    As for stocking Laquer thinner and not Laquer ........ laquer thinner is a comodity and has multiple uses ........ you can buy dry cleaning fluid, but don't expect to get ya dry cleaning done there.

    On the matter of the Definition of the word "laquer", in the retail market the word may have become ambiguous and missued as has the word "varnish"...... but in the trade and in the craft the meaning remains clear.

    A couple of things for those who have not used laquer. in particular Nitro and acrillic laquer ...... the primary reason it is used is because it is fast ... realy fast.

    I use GMH Flat black ( a cheap black nitro) as a general purpose black stuff ....... in warm weather I can slash an item black, hang the spray gun up, turn around and pick the item up dry. fast real fast.

    A friend of mine claims that he has seen and worked on jobs where they expect to get at least 5 coats of nitro on a piano in one day, in winter, in Melbourne ..as long as the sun is shining.

    It is also very common to thin laquer in high persentages .... 30% laquer and 70% thinner is not uncommon or unreasonable.

    You can thin laquers this far because of what they are .... they cure predominantly by evaporation of the solvent ...... finishes that cure by reaction generally can not be thinned anywhere near that far without compromising the bonding process of the resins.

    Pollyeurathane for example mostly starts to have problems around 10% solvent .... the bond strength is reduced and clarity suffers.

    As for American texts and videos ..... you have to remember they have a much larger market ..... Also remember that some of the American media is intended for people further along than your average DIY person.

    Just take paint in a spray tin ...... the average person in this country would have a hard time buying anything decent in a spray tin ...... its mostly low end "jam in a can". Ya cant even get a decent colour range unless you pay thru the nose for auto touch up paint.

    In the US there are products like Krylon, which is a range of spray products way beyond anything most Australians would ever see ..... In the US, Krylon and similar quality products in a spray tin are common.

    Yes you can get Krylon in AUS, but you wont find it in pretty much any hardware shop.

    If you are anything but a retail mug, or want to move on from being a retail mug, you need to start asking questions and looking for more information than a single word to define a finish.

    Do not Rely on the word "laquer" ..... is it, old school nitro, pre-catalised nitro, Acrillic or some other base.

    Then be prepared for some unconventional concepts ....... there is what is considered normal(in whatever trade you work in) .... then there are some things that are real but not conventional like in the marine world, there is a real thing called "single pack polly eurathane enamel" ..... that makes no sense to someone from the house painting industry and many hard core car refinish people will just look at you like you are stupid ...... but it is a real thing.

    Also be prepared for the utter BULL$#!^, that people behind trade counters will tell you ..... sometime you have to do some work to find out the truth.

    Like that joker who said the the Aerosol laquer was " acrillic enamel" ..... If it is a clear it is either Acrillic, Nitro ( or some similar) or most unlikly an oil bassed clear like enamel paint would be bassed on. ..... I'd be interested in the truth of that one.

    hope this helps
    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  11. #56
    Mobyturns's Avatar
    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    "Brownsville" Nth QLD
    Age
    66
    Posts
    385

    Default

    You could try

    Nitrocellulose clear Lacquer 400g aerosol spray can
    https://www.guitaraust.com.au/finish...-aerosols.html

    I have never seen either and use Wattyl Stylwood myself.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  12. #57
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    122

    Default

    Wattyl Rediseal and4L and 20L of Wattyl Stylewood in various levels of gloss. Also available coloured.

    All orderable from The Paint Place. They won't have it, but a couple of days and it's there. Ive done this 3 times with 4 and 20L cans. You also need the Magic Thinner (can't remember name) but you use hardly any and it's just for thinning a tad and cleanup)

    For spaying, use guns, or Preval sprayers from StewMac, Autopro here in Aus or Amazon.

    Tints, stains and non-aerosolised NC's are available from StewMac.

    I've also spoken with a number of car body paint places about the problem of getting true Nitrocellulose finish. One that will blend into the previous coat and dry in minutes.... They find it baffling, but I will be honest in they have pointed me to look at several solutions they use in their industry. I'd wager the car refinishing biz is pretty sophisticated. They were like kids at Christmas showing off what can be done.

    I know this, for as a test a month ago I used a basic black finish over their spray undercoat on MDF, finished in clear and then wet sanded (called rubbing out) and buffed and it shone like a million dollars. I did this as I couldn't do Japanese Laquering. I'm now finishing mdf boxes this way.

    Australia is utterly impoverished in solutions for NC. I unhesitatingly purchase everything overseas.

    Guitar refinishing is an incredible thing to study. These dudes absolutely push the envelope. I'm now using many of their techniques for finishing my work. It seems obvious, but visit a music shop and witness the glory of their work. It makes us woodworkers look like refinishing peasants.

  13. #58
    Mobyturns's Avatar
    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    "Brownsville" Nth QLD
    Age
    66
    Posts
    385

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Evanism View Post
    Australia is utterly impoverished in solutions for NC. I unhesitatingly purchase everything overseas.
    Pre-catalysed nitrocellulose lacquer and traditional lacquers based upon hydrocarbon and other volatile thinners (VOC's) are being phased out across the world because of their high solvent ratio to solids, transfer efficiency and the concerns about air pollution and tough air quality regulations. That is why HVLP is the go these days, far more efficient spray systems.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  14. #59
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    21

    Default Auto undercoat on MDF

    I have been using Automotive undercoat on MDF for years it seals the board and can be sanded, then sprayed with paint then sprayed with a semi gloss clear and it will dry quicker and a very nice finish.

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pictureman View Post
    I have been using Automotive undercoat on MDF for years it seals the board and can be sanded, then sprayed with paint then sprayed with a semi gloss clear and it will dry quicker and a very nice finish.
    YEH man .... thinners bassed automotive undercoat is great on MDF ..... or pretty much any timber ...... same with automotive laquers.

    BIG thing about automotive laquers ..... designed for 100% outdoor exposure.

    cheers


    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

Similar Threads

  1. Lacquer over WOP
    By Arron in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 9th December 2012, 08:14 PM
  2. Red Lacquer
    By springwater in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 19th May 2012, 10:49 PM
  3. lacquer & EEE
    By maddog 62 in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 7th September 2008, 06:26 PM
  4. NC Lacquer vs. Oil
    By JackG in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 9th August 2008, 12:12 PM
  5. NC lacquer
    By Roly in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 9th May 2003, 05:50 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •